[Eric Vinje]

Hi Kitty –

I would not wait until spring to treat for slugs. Most slug species overwinter in the soil as adults. In spring large numbers of eggs are deposited (as many as 100 at a time) in soil cracks, underneath mulch or dead leaves and in other cool, moist protected areas. If you apply Sluggo Bait now — or other natural controls — you will decrease the number of egg laying adults in your garden and have fewer problems with this pest next growing season.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello!

Unfortunately, the only natural way to help decrease pink root problems is by planting your onions in a different spot free of infection for at least 5 to 6 years. It is a very persistent fungal disease that the majority of natural fungicides can’t handle. The best thing to do when you plant in your new spot would be to control pests and make sure you have everything fertilized appropriately so they can be as healthy as possible to fight off some issues like this.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Sinead!

There are a lot of different types of winter cherry trees, so I won’t be able to fully help you, but I can give you a few suggestion.

First off, I recommend using clay pebbles in a saucer with water to set your cherry tree on top of as a form of humidity rather than misting it so often as that can encourage disease problems. If your foliage isn’t showing symptoms (wilting, scabs, moldy coatings, rusts, blotches or rotted tissue), you’re probably still in the clear.

Another suggestion would be to hand pollinate your winter cherry as most types can’t pollinate themselves. If you don’t do this, it won’t be able to produce fruit, hence why there are none. You can do this by simply gently rubbing a q-tip on each blossom and mixing it with another. Simple, but important.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Marie –

The best time to release beneficial insects in your garden is while pest levels are still low, but some are present — they will need a food source around to dine on. If pest populations are high, we recommend knocking them down with a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide — Insecticidal Soap, Horticultural Oil, Botanical Insecticide — to establish control before releasing beneficial insects to maintain control. The following link should help:

https://www.planetnatural.com/using-beneficial-insects/.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Deb –

Do you know what kind of worm is attacking your peaches? My guess is that you are having problems with either the oriental fruit moth (OFM) or plum curculio. Fortunately, both of these pests can be treated with the following products.

Surround WP — a wettable kaolin clay — can be used to deter a broad range of fruit tree pests (and diseases), and will reduce damage by up to 60%. Apply before fruit moths arrive and continue for 6-8 weekly applications, or until the infestation is over. To suppress plum curculio, apply at 7 day intervals throughout the egg laying period (early spring).

Bonide® Citrus, Fruit & Nut Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for common insect attacks and fungal problems. Dilute by mixing 5 fluid oz product with 1 gallon of water. Shake well. Thoroughly spray all areas of the plant, especially new shoots and the underside of leaves. Apply every 7 to 10 days, as needed.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

The problem with using meat and other table scraps as fertilizer is that it will attract all kinds of pest animals and insects to your garden. In this case, I think the maggots are harmless and not attacking your rose plant. They are simply feeding on — and breaking down — the high nitrogen treat you left for them.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mark –

Sorry for the delay in my response, I’ve been busy at buying shows stocking up for next season.

What kind of fruit trees are you growing? In most cases, you will want to fertilize your fruit trees in early spring, right before bud break. Avoid fertilizing after July, as this can produce new growth that will not survive the winter.

Organic Dr. Earth Fruit Tree Fertilizer is recommended to promote stable consistent plant growth with NO growth spikes. Hugely popular, we will have more available around the first of the year.

Directions:
Apply in spring and early summer. For new tree plantings, add 2 to 2-1/2 cups to the planting hole and water well. For established plants, work one cup or two cups into the soil within the drip line. Can also be mixed with water for foliar feeding or deep root feeding.

Hope it helps! Feel free to contact us if you have anymore questions.

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mathew –

I wasn’t sure so sent off an email to our Roots rep. Here’s what he had to say:

Hello Eric –

Somebody steered that poor soul wrong. Uprising has no place in a circulating system.

If your customer insists on using it in such a system, if he has drippers he could topdress below the drippers if he is in soilless or coco. But still I wouldn’t really recommend that.

We do have a new product coming out very soon called Terp Tea that is like a micronized uprising but only a 2 part (grow and bloom)that could potentially work in a system like that. We could get some on your next order.

But again, this guy, uprisings in a hydro system… no easy fix/good answer there. Sorry about that.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Karen –

Unfortunately the Fertrell mine has been closed and their greensand product is no longer available. We have been looking for a good substitute, one with similar nutrient value, and will make it available soon. As you might expect, many inferior products have come along to fill the void, and we are looking for something that is simply not green sand.

Thanks for your patience.

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Rebecca –

I think it depends on how cold your climate gets. We have an excellent article filled with techniques to protect potted plants from cold and freezing weather here

https://www.planetnatural.com/wintering-potted-plants/.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Steve,

I’m sorry to hear about your lawn! Sod webworms are pesky little bugs but, fortunately we do offer a few products that can help get rid of them in no time that don’t pose a threat to your family or your pets.

Monterey B.t. is a wonderful product that is mainly based with naturally occurring bacteria called Bacillus thuringiensis that targets pests such as caterpillars and grubs. It is very effective and will eradicate your webworm problems in no time.

Another option you could try is going with beneficial insects. We carry what are called beneficial nematodes. These microscopic critters attack hundreds of pests during multiple life-cycles and can last up to 18 months and are completely harmless to us.

I would encourage you to check out our pest problem solver page which includes all of this information and more on how to get rid of all sorts of different pests, such as the sod webworm. I will include the link so you can find which remedy will work for you.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/sod-webworm-control/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Dixie,

Any plant that can be grown in regular nursery pots can be grown in grow bags. Both grapes and dwarf fruit trees can thrive in pots as long as you provide proper conditions by either adding drainage or using specific soils. You will probably have to re-pot your plants as they grow in size, so it is technically not a permanent home for them. Either way, looks like you’re in the clear!

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Julie –

Well known and widely distributed in North America, the squash bug is often found in large numbers and tend to congregate in clusters on leaves, vines and fruits of cucurbit crops. To combat them I recommend using Safer Brand Tomato & Vegetable Insect Killer. The product combines potassium salts of fatty acids (insecticidal soap) and botanical pyrethrins (made from chrysanthemum flowers) to kill a large number of insects on contact. Best of all, it’s approved for organic use.

Apply every 7 to 10 days when insects are present or as needed to prevent damage.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Nicholas –

I wasn’t sure… so asked the company. Here’s what they said:

Azamax can be tank mixed with hydroponic nutrients for a few days with no negative effects besides having some residue in the res that will need to be washed out. I only recommend running it every other week as the oils will clog root hairs and make a mess, especially if full hydro. It will work with Emerald Harvest but is much more synergistic with GH Nutrients!

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Patrick –

Unopened Mycostop packages stored in a cool (at or below +8°C) and dry location have a viable shelf life of 12 months. I would think that if you sealed the package immediately after opening, and kept it cool, that you would be good to go for at least another month. Keep in mind, that Mycostop is a living organism. It does not immediately go bad once the expiration date is exceeded, but may no longer be at the strength stated on the product label.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Rosana,

You’ve come to the right place if you’re looking for a natural fertilizer without the drawback of harsh chemicals! As I’m sure you’ve seen, we have a plethora of fertilizers for all sorts of different plants so, finding one that suits all of your needs is no problem.

I would suggest the route of using Happy Frog All Purpose Fertilizer as it will provide not only your miniature rose with a wonderful boost, but it will cater to all of your plant needs. It is a wonderful choice for annuals and the majority of houseplants as they only really need a 5-5-5 fertilizer to keep happy, healthy, and thriving. Mind you, this product is meant to go in the soil and not applied as a foliar spray. You shouldn’t need a foliar spray for your plants after using this seeing as it is packed full of goodies such as fish meal, bat guano, and natural microorganisms.

If you are in need of a foliar fertilizer, the best recommendation would be to look into Neptune’s Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer. It can be applied as a drench or as a foliar spray and is a favorite both in our store and online!

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi William –

The following is taken from our Pecan Weevil Control page, which can be found here https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/tree-pests/pecan-weevil-control/.

Spread in bands around the base of trees, Tanglefoot® Pest Barrier will prevent adult weevils from reaching the nuts on which they feed.

Beneficial nematodes are microscopic, worm-like parasites that actively hunt, penetrate and destroy pecan weevil larvae in the soil. Applications should be made around the base of trees, out to the drip line — or a little farther.

Azatrol EC contains azadirachtin, the key insecticidal ingredient found in neem oil. This broad spectrum, organic spray disrupts growth and development of pest insects and has repellent and anti-feedant properties. Best of all, it’s non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.

Growers with only a few trees can place tarps under the canopy during August, especially several days after a rain, and jar the limbs to shake adults free. Weevils that fall will remain still for several minutes and can be collected and destroyed in a bucket of soapy water. This technique can be repeated until mid-September or until no weevils are found.

Apply fast-acting botanical insecticides after 6 weevils are jarred from a single tree. Normally, three to five sprays every 5-7 days are required. These natural pesticides will also prevent egg laying by adults, if applied soon after adults emerge.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Robert –

Large white and tough cores inside tomatoes are most often related to the variety you are growing. However, in some cases dry weather conditions or too much fertilizer can contribute to the problem. Some articles I read suggest that older, juicy varieties may be more apt to develop hard, white central cores. I think simply switching tomato varieties next year will solve the problem.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

It sure sounds like you’re having problems with Japanese beetles, which spend about ten months of the year in the ground in the form of a plump, white grub (3/4 inch long). Like most grubs, they feed on grassroots and are especially injurious to lawns, which will show irregularly shaped patches of wilted, dead or dying grass. The adults — those shiny, green-black beetles as big as a fingernail – feast on foliage, preferring most of all your prize roses.

Japanese beetles are the worst problem many lawn-owners will face, and perhaps the worst turf pest in North America. Click on our Pest Problem Solver page to learn organic and natural methods for getting rid of Japanese beetles on lawns and landscaped areas.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/japanese-beetle-control/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Becky –

Pelargonic acid, the active ingredient in Scythe Herbicide, is not approved for use in organic production. If you are looking for a weed killer that is OMRI Listed for use in organic production I suggest AllDown. Here’s a link:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/vinegar-weed-killer/

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Pat –

Most deer repellents provide scent and taste barriers to repel deer and rabbits from browsing and feeding upon landscape plants, shrubs and trees. However, Liquid Fence, and many other deer repellents, is not registered for use on vegetable or fruit crops. In most cases, this is because they won’t taste good after use.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Breck –

You bet you can use baking soda and citric acid (or vinegar) to adjust pH in your hydroponics reservoir. My only concern is that it might not stay adjusted for very long. Also, after doing a bit of research online, it’s apparent that these “natural remedies” may create nutrient uptake problems, which can wreak-havoc down the road. My suggestion: play it safe and purchase a commercial pH adjuster. They’re relatively inexpensive and for the most part, trouble free!

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Michael –

The biggest benefit to using commercial insecticidal soap is that it has the best dilution rates for the most success in killing off pests along with the added benefit of sticking agents to make it more effective than your typical dish soap. Keep in mind, that we sell many natural herbicides that are made from the same ingredients —
potassium salts of fatty acids — they’re just more concentrated and will kill plants as well as pests. Once the soap spray has dried, it’s ineffective.

When it comes to a regimen to knock back pests and keep your garden healthy, I would suggest cycling through a couple of different products for best results. Aphids produce very rapidly so, building a tolerance is not uncommon. A pyrethrin spray would be advisable as that targets their nervous system and kills much more effectively along with an insecticidal soap to break down the membrane of the aphid. Applying these on a rotating schedule should prove to be a bit more effective. Diatomaceous earth can also be used against aphids. A mild abrasive, it kills insects within 48 hours of contact… indoors or out!

Another option you may want to consider is to release ladybugs on your affected plant. These beneficial insects are happy to munch on unsuspecting aphids and help to clear up the problem.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/aphid-control/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Nina –

I just received an email from NPK Industries that RAW Potassium, Kelp, Humic Acid, Silica and Yucca are now OMRI Listed for use in organic production.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

It is possible to control mealybugs on hibiscus plants using beneficial insects, insecticidal soaps, and other natural techniques. The following is from our mealybug control page.

Prune out light infestations or dab insects with a Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol.

Do not over water or overfertilize — mealybugs are attracted to plants with high nitrogen levels and soft growth.

Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and the Mealybug Destroyer (Cryptolaemus montrouzieri), are important natural predators of this pest.

Use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers. Washing foliage regularly with a leaf shine — made from neem oil — will help discourage future infestations.

Safer® Insecticidal Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.

Neem oil disrupts the growth and development of pest insects and has repellent and anti-feedant properties. Best of all, it’s non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray every 7-14 days, as needed.

Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.

Washing foliage regularly with a leaf shine will help discourage future infestations.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Toni –

I like what you are doing here. In fact, I too prepare new garden areas in much the same way as you and your father. It’s a tried and true method, does not involve toxic chemicals, and it works! The only other technique I can think of, besides using an organic herbicide, is solarizing soil by covering it with plastic tarps. This method is often employed during the heat of summer to kill unwanted weeds, pests, disease, and fungi in the earth. Doing it in the spring probably won’t accomplish this. It just doesn’t get warm enough.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mitch!

We offer a certified organic product called Safer Mosquito & Tick Killer that I believe would be a great solution to your mosquito and tick problems. This OMRI Listed insect killer is compliant for use in organic gardening so you can spray in and around the areas of your home where insects are present.

If you are applying this product around your yard, I would advise you to keep your pet indoors until the spray has fully dried. Also, to be completely cautious, I would not directly spray areas that your dog frequents — rather spot treat the problem areas (shrubs, bushes along pathways). That should clear up your issues in no time! I’ve included a couple of links that should help.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/mosquito-control/
https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/tick-control/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Nina,

RAW Nutrients are not certified organic. However, they do not contain fillers or stabilizers so there aren’t any nasty chemicals left behind. If you are trying to grow certified organic crops, I would suggest calling the company for more details regarding that.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Curtis –

We offer several safe, yet effective, products that will kill ants indoors. However, like all pests, ants require food and water to survive; by eliminating these basic necessities you can greatly reduce their numbers. The following information has been taken from our natural ant control page.

• Caulk cracks and crevices around foundations and apply Don’t Bug Me Spray to door and window jams to prevent entry from outside.

• Where pipes and electrical wires enter the house spread Tanglefoot Pest Barrier to keep crawling pests outside.

• Diatomaceous earth contains no toxic poisons and works quickly on contact. Dust lightly and evenly around areas where pest insects are found.

• Dust Boric Acid lightly into cracks, crevices, wall voids and other insect hiding places. This fine powder clings to the legs, antennae and bodies of crawling insects and acts as a stomach poison when consumed during grooming.

• Terro Indoor Ant Baits contain 6 pre-filled liquid boric acid stations for maximum coverage. Just clip open the package with scissors and drop near the site of the infestation. For best results, remove all other food sources so the pests run straight for this sweet temptation.

• Spray Orange Guard, made from citrus peel extract, to kill on contact. Approved for organic use, Orange Guard is a broad spectrum insect killer that’s safe to use indoors and out. Repeat applications may be necessary.

• Safer Ant & Roach Killer is the first effective, truly organic aerosol that kills crawling insects in seconds. Best of all, it has a fresh citrus scent, so there is no chemical odor!

Note: Borax is recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as being among the safest and least toxic chemicals available to consumers. Visit the EPA’s Fact Sheet (PDF) to learn more.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Erryl –

Here’s our recommendations for getting rid of weeds in a raspberry patch.

• Pull weeds by hand or use a hand weeder to uproot unwanted plants. Digging weeds is good exercise and it puts us in close proximity to our growing things.

• Lay down a heavy layer — 6 to 8 inches — of organic mulch. The mulch will choke out weeds and help retain moisture, which raspberries thrive on.

• Spray an organic herbicide like AllDown on the growing weeds. Take care to spot treat only the weeds and unwanted vegetation trying to keep the product off of your crop. Keep in mind, that AllDown is a non-selective weed killer and will kill desirable plants too, but it should have little effect on the woody canes of your raspberries.

Weeding is a continuous activity in the organic garden and one’s attitude towards it has a lot to do with seeing it as a chore and impossible task or an ongoing activity that provides exercise, fresh air and a chance to get close to one’s garden.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Julie –

I wasn’t sure, so wrote Botanicare and got the following response:

Hydroguard is going to be a great product to help prevent root rot. This product is recommended to be used at a rate of 2 ml per gallon. You will want to add every time you top off your reservoir. You will not need to add every 4 hours unless you are adding new water to your reservoir every 4 hours. Please let me know if you have any other questions, I will be happy to answer!

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

There is conflicting information online about this subject, so I went straight to the source and asked the insectary. Their response…

“Trichogramma wasps will NOT work on gypsy moth eggs.”

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Amara –

Do NOT apply more fertilizer if you have followed the manufacturer’s suggestions. Organic lawn fertilizers are slow release — they must break down before being taken up by your grass and will benefit your soil while providing nutrients for your grass. You will not notice a fast green-up, but instead have a healthy looking, green lawn over a much longer period of time.

Used in combination with good maintenance practices — including aeration and proper mowing — organic fertilizers will make your lawn less labor and water intensive. You may also want to consider adding compost to your lawn, especially in those dry, patchy spots.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Scott –

Great for container plants! Black Gold Organic Potting Soil is specially formulated with sphagnum peat moss, compost, earthworm castings and finely ground forest products for water retention and overall nutrition. To prevent packing down and ensure perfect drainage, optimal proportions of coarse perlite and pumice are incorporated into the mix. It contains no added fertilizers or pesticides and is OMRI Listed for use in organic production.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Harrison,

Yellowing plant leaves can be a symptom of many different things, and most often it is related to under or over watering. The second most common cause is nitrogen deficiency. If you haven’t tried fertilizing your snail vine recently, I would recommend a fertilizer that is meant for vegetative growth – or has a higher percentage of nitrogen than phosphorous and potassium. Pay attention to the three numbers listed on the fertilizer, the first number is nitrogen and should be higher than phosphorous and potassium (N – P – K).

Since you mentioned that the vine is still vigorously growing, I might guess that something else is causing the problem. It could be that your plant is in too small of a pot and it is becoming root bound. If you think this is the case, try repotting it in a larger pot so that the roots have adequate room.

Another issue could be that your plant is not receiving enough light. Snail vines require full sun so be sure to place it in a location where this requirement can be fulfilled.

Lastly, remember that it is normal for plants to yellow and drop their lower leaves as they age. I’m assuming that you are noticing a drastic amount of leaves turning yellow, but if it’s only a handful, don’t stress – that’s normal. If not, trying changing one thing at a time so that you can determine what is truly causing the problem.

Note: Snail vines like to be heavily watered and love humid environments. It sounds like you are watering as needed but, not introducing enough humidity. To increase humidity, simply take pebbles or peat moss and soak them in water to be put around in the tray.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Kevin –

The best organic product for squash bugs is Safer® Tomato & Vegetable Insect Killer. It combines potassium salts of fatty acids (insecticidal soap) and botanical pyrethrins (made from chrysanthemum flowers) to kill a large number of garden pests on contact. This powerful pesticide is very effective, but short lived in the environment — lasting 3 to 5 days after application — so its effect on non-target organisms is minimal.

Floating row covers (Harvest-Guard®) and diatomaceous earth can also be used to reduce pest numbers. Both are effective and completely non-toxic to people, pets and wildlife.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Christine –

The following has been taken from our page on non-toxic mosquito control (https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/mosquito-control/).

Unfortunately, there is no easy solution for managing mosquitoes. Countless natural techniques vary depending on the pest level, water supply, cost and risk of disease. Many products are available, but nothing is absolutely foolproof. Here are some suggestion:

• Mosquito Beater Granules and Spray use food grade oils to naturally repel biting insects for 2-3 weeks!

• Kill the immature larval stage before it can develop into a flying, biting adult with Bacillus thuringiensis var israelensis (Bt-i). Available under various trade names, Bt-i is a naturally occurring and highly specific biological pesticide. Applied to standing water, it is effective for up to 30 days and will not harm people, pets, wildlife or fish.

• Flying, biting adults rest in protected areas during the day. To reduce populations, use a Mosquito Fogger — made from organic plant oils — or apply Mosquito & Tick Spray on shrubs, the lower limbs of shade trees, under decks, along foundations and other pest resting sites.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Kurt –

Safer® Soap is effective against sod webworms, just make sure to follow the mixing instructions on the label — more is not better! In fact, we sell natural herbicides made out of soap that are just a much stronger concentration. Spraying in the evening will help reduce potential damage to your St. Augustine grass, but I suggest you test a small area first before applying to your entire lawn. Please also see our page on webworm control for more information.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/sod-webworm-control/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Lawrence,

According to the pesticide manufacturers, the expiration dates are as follows:

Serenade Disease Control – 2 years
Monterey Insect Spray – 5 years
Orchard Spray – Does not expire but, they recommend to use within 10 years.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Felicia –

I wrote the manufacturer for help with your question. Here is their response:

“All microbial fungicides and insecticides have essentially the same ‘Caution’ language on their labels. She needs to respect that Mycostop is not phoo-phoo dust. Respirator language basically applies to professional applicators.”

For what it’s worth, I have been told by an EPA officer that even distilled water would need the same scary information on the label if I was selling it as a pesticide, fungicide, herbicide or repellent.

When applying to home gardens mix at the following rate:

0.01% = 1g/2.6 gal water as a drench.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Gary!

I’m sorry to hear about your honeysuckle vine! There is a very good chance it will bounce back, but it will take some time to regain its former glory. With a little tender loving care, it should be just fine.

I would highly suggest some heavy pruning to get rid of damaged plant parts along with releasing commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing, for long-term pest control. Use a heavy stream of water, prior to release, to knock off as many plant pests as you can and reduce the number of ants on the vine. Ants will protect aphids from natural predators. Also, studies have shown that the ladybug lures you purchased are very effective at keeping introduced ladybugs around the area to be protected.

In late summer and early fall, aphids lay overwintering eggs. Horticultural oil should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.

Do not overwater or over fertilize – aphids like plants with high nitrogen levels and soft new growth. Use organic fertilizers which release nutrients slowly.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Doreen –

Scanmask® Beneficial Nematodes are a very effective biological control for use against sod webworms. For best results, apply when young larvae are present and water the area before and after application. Nematodes do fine in higher temperatures as long as the soil doesn’t get completely dried out.

Each box of 10 million nematodes treats between 320 and 850 square feet depending on pest and level of infestation.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Rosie –

The following tips for treating scale on your cactus are taken from the following page:

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/scale-control/.

To get rid of scale insects prune and dispose of infested branches, twigs and leaves.

When scale numbers are low they may be rubbed or picked off of plants by hand.

Dabbing individual pests with an alcohol-soaked cotton swab or neem-based leaf shine will also work when infestations are light.

Azamax contains azadirachtin, the key insecticidal ingredient found in neem oil. This concentrated spray is approved for organic use and offers multiple modes of action, making it virtually impossible for pest resistance to develop. Best of all, it’s non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.

Horticultural oils and other safe, oil-based insecticides work by smothering insects and will control all pest stages, including adults which are protected from most other insecticides by their armor coverings. I have checked the label on the All Seasons Horticultural Spray Oil and found no restrictions for cactus. As always, test a small area first before spraying the entire plant.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jennifer!

Your first lawn application of Weed Prevention Plus should be in the early spring, 3-5 weeks before weeds begin to sprout. This is about the time the crocus and daffodils are blooming in your area. Re-apply in late summer when temperatures turn cooler to control late season weeds.

When used as directed, Weed Prevention Plus will not harm beneficial insects, soil organisms, pond, or stream life. There’s no waiting, warnings, or worries. As for coverage, each 25 lb bag of Concern Weed Prevention Plus handles 1,500 square feet of ground so, in order to cover half an acre, you would need 14.5 bags.

To answer your last question, there is not a whole lot you can do this time of year, except to spot-treat with organic herbicides and hand pull. AllDown Organic Herbicide is a safe alternative to Roundup®. This 23% vinegar weed killer is trusted by cities and municipalities, the US Fish and Wildlife Service, orchards and many other agencies across the country. However, it is non-selective and will work on any plant it touches, including most weeds, grass or broadleaf specimens.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Deborah –

Well, you’re not the only one that enjoys roses. Pests and fungal disease love them too. Below are some common rose pests and problems taken from our Rose Gardening Guru page.

Leafcutter Bees. As their name suggests, leafcutter bees (smaller and darker than a common honey bee) cut precise round or oval holes from the sides of plant leaves, which are used to form nest cells.

Japanese Beetles. Found in most states east of the Mississippi River, Japanese beetles (1/2 inch) are metallic green with copper-colored wing covers. Adults are very destructive and chew small holes in both the leaves and flowers of rose bushes.

Most of the common rose diseases are fungal in nature. You can nip that problem in the bud by ensuring good air flow for your plants. That means providing plenty of room between roses, ideally five feet apart from each other. Overcrowding means excessive moisture and gives fungal spores the opportunity they’ve been waiting for.

If you’re having difficulty diagnosing what the problem is, enlist the aid of your local agricultural extension agent or a friendly rosarian. You can also visit our Pest Problem Solver for pictures, descriptions and a complete list of earth-friendly remedies.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Ravi!

When it come to nutrients for hydroponics, we have a wide selection for every grower. Unfortunately, we do not carry any that are considered organic, but have organic ingredients in the mixtures. ​I would however, suggest the General Hydroponics Performance Pack to start with.

As far as organic soil mediums go, we do have an organic medium that is made up of coconut husks that are suitable for hydroponic usage (please note this is not OMRI certified). This can work in our hydroponic system called Emily’s Garden which is a relatively small set up.

I will include the links to all of these products down below so you can check out each one and determine if it is right for you.
Hope this helps!

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/canna-coco/

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/flora-series-performance-pack/

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/emilys-garden-hydroponic-system/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Francine –

Both lacewings and ladybugs will attack aphids and other soft bodied pests quickly and effectively providing long term pest control without the use of toxic sprays. Most organic growers experienced with using beneficial insects actually prefer lacewing to ladybugs as they tend to stick around longer — they do not fly off! However, lacewing are very difficult to find after they hatch. Newly hatched lacewing larvae are about 1/8″ long, gray-green in color, and hang out on the undersides of plant leaves.

Most gardeners are very familiar with ladybugs. They are shipped as adults and arrive healthy ready to go to work in your garden. When your package of live, healthy ladybugs arrives from us you know what you have — it is extremely satisfying when the beetles come bursting out of the mesh bag. Lacewing, on the other hand, are shipped as eggs packed in a carrier (rice hulls). Larvae soon hatch out and will feed for 2-3 weeks before becoming adults, but a common complaint is, “I never saw them.” Also, because, lacewing only feed on aphids in the larval stage, a second release, two weeks later, may be necessary.

In my opinion, ladybugs are best for tree applications. Ladybugs are natural climbers and will move up the tree in search of aphids, which tend to cluster on new growth. Just makes sure to reduce the ant population prior to release. Ants will protect aphids for the honeydew they produce.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/aphid-control/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Elizabeth –

The manufacturer of our lawn and yard insect killer granules has not gone through the additional expense of registering the product with the EPA for use on food crops. Currently, EcoSMART can be used on lawns, around home foundations as a perimeter treatment, and landscaped areas. Made from eugenol (clove oil), thyme oil, wintergreen oil and peanut shells, It is pet safe and will not harm beneficial nematodes in the soil.

Apply at a rate of 2-5 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mark –

Whitefly are often found in thick crowds on the undersides of hibiscus leaves. When infested plants are disturbed, great clouds of the winged adults may fly into the air. Both nymphs and adults will damage these plants by sucking the juices from new growth causing stunted growth, leaf yellowing and reduced yields.

Here’s how to get rid of these small sucking insects using proven, organic techniques.

Yellow sticky traps are helpful for monitoring and suppressing adult populations.

If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.

Natural predators of this pest include ladybugs and lacewing larvae, which feed on their eggs and the whitefly parasite which destroys nymphs and pupae. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.

If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived organic pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.

Safer® Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.

Organic Neem Oil can be sprayed on vegetables, fruit trees and flowers to kill eggs, larvae and adults. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray all leaf surfaces (including the undersides of leaves) until completely wet.

Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.

Tip: Horticultural oils, which work by smothering insects, are very effective on all stages of this pest, but may damage blossoms if applied to heavily.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Charity –

Praying Mantis egg cases can take 6-8 weeks of warm temperatures, 65-75 degrees daytime, no lower than 45 degrees at night, to hatch. If immediate release is inconvenient you can keep the egg case(s) in the refrigerator for up to one week, but they must be in a ventilated container. DO NOT FREEZE.

To release, simply tie the praying mantis egg case(s) to twigs or branches about three feet above the ground. Birds and rodents will feed on them, so placing them in a container with holes large enough for the mantis to escape — 1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter — will provide protection. One case will yield approximately 50-200 nymphs.

To speed up the hatch, we recommend placing egg cases — still in the bag — on top of a refrigerator, or some place that is consistently warm, but not hot. Do not place them on a windowsill as temperatures fluctuate too much.

Escape proof, the Insect Lore Port A Bug is a lightweight and durable insect habitat that is the perfect habitat to observe your mantis hatchlings! Just make sure to release them soon after release as they are cannibalistic.

Note: The newly hatched insects squeeze through the egg sac, leaving it intact and disperse quickly without leaving behind a clue that hatching has occurred. It takes as much as five months for mantises to reach full size.

Good luck!

[Author]

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