[Eric Vinje]

Hi Dan –

I think any spray bottle or 1 gallon pump sprayer would work great for applying diatomaceous earth. I recommend smaller applicators because you will need to continually agitate or shake the solution for even dispersion. Mix 4 tablespoons (1/4 cup) per gallon of water and apply to pest problem areas. After application the solution will dry and leave a fine insect-killing film over garden plants, shrubs, trees and lawns.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Joe –

Rock dust improves soil vitality and plant health. It contains a broad range of trace minerals, many of which have been lost through the ages, by erosion, leaching and farming. We offer to types:

Gaia Green Glacial Rock Dust which is derived from glacial moraines located in British Columbia, Canada.
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/glacial-rock-dust-50-lb/

and

Azomite which is derived from a natural volcanic ash deposit mined in Utah.
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/azomite-44-lb/

To apply spread 50-150 lbs per 1,000 square feet and work into the soil prior to planting. During the growing season, boost plant health by side-dressing in crop rows or around the drip line of trees and shrubs. It’s best to work side-dressings into the top 1-inch of the soil.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Gary –

That’s perfect! Just stop using the Organocide a few days before releasing the predators.

Go get `em!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi George –

Yes, Semaspore grasshopper bait is safe for honeybees. It will only harm grasshoppers and one cricket species.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Gary –

If aphids are already out of control on your honeysuckle shrub we recommend knocking them down first with a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide — Safer® Soap or a botanical insecticide — to establish control then release beneficial insects to maintain control. This is because aphids, and other insect pests, reproduce very quickly. If you release ladybugs or lacewings when pest populations are already high they can’t keep up with the pest numbers.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Alex!

The Botanicare PowerCloner 180 comes with the Botanicare Mag Drive 500 Submersible Pump. I contacted Hydrofarm (one of the distributors) and they had this to say about the PSI:

The formula for converting head height ( shutoff height) to PSI is as follows:
2.3 feet of head = 1psi

Model 5:
Shutoff height is 10 ½ feet according to our specs.
Pressure is then 4.5 psi

As for the misters, the Ez-Clone 360 misters are not compatible with Botanicare systems. It is possible for us to get you the proper misters the system though. I’m not sure as to what the droplet size is as that is not able to be measured, but I would assume it puts out a constant spray of water like the Ez-Clone misters.

I hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

The RO-PEL product was discontinued by the manufacturer close to a year ago. We bought up the remainder of the inventory and offer the Dog & Cat Repellent Granules here.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Lura –

If your hydroponic tower garden is only receiving moderate sunlight, I would recommend moving to a higher light area. Plants such as tomatoes and peppers need at least 8 hours of direct sunlight everyday. This time can be split, but it must add up to 8 total hours. As for the pollination problem, plants in the squash family will often will open male and female flowers at different times. Having multiple plants of one species helps to combat this issue. It is also necessary to make sure pollen is traveling from male to female flowers. Male flowers will have one big anther in the flower resembling a q-tip or Popsicle. Female flowers have stigma which form a swollen cluster atop a ‘pedestal’ called a style in the center of the flower petals. An electric toothbrushes with a cotton swab stuck to the end will help mimic the movement of bees. Use the toothbrush to gently shake pollen from the male flower. Once the cotton swab is saturated with pollen, turn the toothbrush off and place into the female flower. Turn the toothbrush back on and gentile add pollen to the female stigma in the center of the flower. You can also remove the male anther from the flower and apply it directly to the female flower. Both of these methods will produce fruit if executed correctly.

As for a nutrient line, I’d highly recommend the Floraseries Performance Pack. These nutrients will take your plant from seedling to fruit, simply follow the hydroponic schedule listed here. Less is often more with hydroponic nutrients, be careful as to not burn your plants. Start with a very small amount and work up from there.

Happy Gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Cindy –

Mosaic virus overwinters on perennial weeds and is spread by insects that feed on them. Aphids, leafhoppers, whiteflies and cucumber beetles are common garden pests that can transmit this disease. Soil, seed, starter pots and containers can be infected and pass the virus to the plant. There are no cures for viral diseases such as mosaic once a plant is infected.

I’ve attached a link to our page that offers proven methods for identifying and preventing mosaic virus in home and market gardens below:

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/plant-disease/mosaic-virus/.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Wilma –

Ecobran should be stored in a cool, dry place and does not have a shelf life.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Debbie –

It is best to release Fly Parasites throughout the season for several reasons: pests produce more eggs in a shorter period of time since their life cycle is much shorter and flies come in from elsewhere. Also, releasing small amounts of Fly Parasites over a period of time (weekly, every other week or monthly) has proven to be more effective than a large release.

For best results, start releasing before flies become a problem. If pest populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control before releasing the predators. Here’s a list of our recommendations:

• Sanitation is the most effective and important step in reducing pest numbers.
• Dry and wrap organic waste before placing it in the garbage can or compost bin. Seal garbage cans with tight fitting lids.
• Hang The Big Stinky or other pesticide-free traps outdoors near problem areas — barns, kennels, garbage bins — to capture pest flies and reduce the number of egg-laying adults.
• Food-grade diatomaceous earth is a mild abrasive that works within 48 hours of contact to kill soft-bodied maggots. May also be applied to moist areas where its sorptive qualities effectively reduce breeding sites.
• Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.

For more information please visit our page on how to get rid of flies naturally.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

Yes, you can order trichogramma wasps weekly if you would like. However, it might be easier to purchase multiple quantities (let’s say five 3-packs) and let us know at checkout in the “Comments or Notes” box the shipping dates you would prefer. You can also call us at 1-888-349-0605 to place and schedule your orders.
Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello O’Linda –

You’re not the only one who loves roses. The rose midge (Dasyneura rhodophaga) adores them as well. Symptoms include:

• Brown/ black or deformed buds with no flowers
• Buds may fall off the bush
• Healthy plants with no blossoms

To combat this destructive pest, always start with the least harmful method of treatment and only “escalate” if you’re not getting results. Also, weigh the damage of the infestation against how much time and money you want to spend. Strive for a balance that will create the healthiest rose bushes at the lowest cost to you and the environment. Here’s a list of our recommendations:

• Purchase bare root roses or remove the soil and rinse the roots of plants brought in from your local nursery or garden store.
• Remove and destroy affected new growth to break the pest’s life-cycle.
• Pupae overwinter in the top 1-2 inches of soil/ mulch. If you use mulch, remove it and replace with fresh material at the end of each growing season.
• Black plastic or other physical barrier applied in the fall will prevent the pest larvae from dropping to the ground and pupating in the soil. It will also make it difficult for adults to leave the soil in early spring.
• Beneficial nematodes (Scanmask®) may be effective against the larval/pupal stage found in the soil.
• Azatrol EC is an azadirachtin insecticide that acts as an antifeedant, insect growth regulator and as a repellent and oviposition deterrent.
• Monterey Garden Insect Spray is a relatively new insect killer containing spinosad that has been mentioned as a potential remedy. Do not apply to blooming parts of plants if bees may be foraging.
• Surround WP is sprayed on as a liquid which evaporates leaving a protective powdery film on the surfaces of leaves, buds, and stems. This film will attach to insects when they contact it, agitating and repelling them. It will also coat the buds making them unsuitable for egg-laying.
• Least toxic, botanical insecticides are usually ineffective against the larvae, which are protected deep within the tips.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Nancy –

Kelp and seaweed extracts have been used for years by organic gardeners. The results are well known. However, in the last couple years, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has decided that kelp should fall under one of two categories. It’s either a plant growth “regulator” (PGR) or a plant “vitamin hormone.”

As a plant growth regulator, seaweed must be put through a lengthy process that includes long and expensive testing. As a plant hormone, it must carry an EPA-approved statement that says it is not approved for use on food crops. It also requires careful labeling. No fruit or vegetables, say a tomato, can be pictured on the label. That would be a violation of EPA rules and would carry a stiff fine.

Please see our article New Labeling on Seaweed Fertilizer Explained here.

The following is a letter we recently received from Maxicrop explaining the label issue:

I am writing to you in regards to the email you sent about our labels. In the last year and a half, the liquid seaweed companies have come under the eye of the US EPA. The EPA claims that liquid seaweed must now either be registered as a plant growth regulator or a plant vitamin hormone. There is no way around this. In order to register as a plant growth regulator, the process involves several years and a 6 figure investment in testing. To register as a plant vitamin hormone, we need to have that statement about food crop sites and severally limit what we can state on the label. Unfortunately, its the path of least resistance. We are currently working on plant growth regulator label but that won’t be complete for another year or so. As for the pictures on the label, we had to remove the food items because the EPA will fine you if they feel your intent is to mislead the consumer. In other words, we have the saying about food crop site but we have a picture of a tomato, the EPA will fine you per sale because the tomato is a food.

I know this defies any logic but we have fought this for over a year with the help of several law firms in both Chicago and Washington DC, for the time being, this is the only option we have to continue marketing the product. I have several friends with other companies who have defied the rulings and were fined well over a a quarter million dollars.

I hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mickie –

Several plant diseases are known to attack rhododendron plants throughout the year. Leaf Spot is a common fungal problem that shows up as brown or black water-soaked spots on the foliage, sometimes with a yellow halo, usually uniform in size. The spots enlarge and will run together under wet conditions.

Prevention & Treatment:

• Choose resistant varieties whenever possible.
• Prompt removal and destruction of infected plant parts helps breaks the life cycle of the disease in individual shrubs.
• It is important to rake up and remove any fallen leaves or debris from under plants.
• Prune occasionally to improve air circulation. Also, water from below to keep from wetting blossoms and foliage.
• Ready to use sulfur sprays or copper-based fungicides should be applied weekly to infected plants starting early in the year and continuing throughout the growing season. If at all possible, time applications so that 12 hours of dry weather follows application.
• Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Casey!

There are many different types of roses that need all sorts of different conditions to grow. Without knowing the types, I can’t help as much as I’d like to. However, I can give you some general information regarding the germination and growing of the seeds. Keep in mind that roses are quite difficult to grow from seed and there will probably be a decent amount of trial and error.

The majority of roses need to go through a process called stratification. To do this, the seeds should be placed in seedling trays with seedling mix. Be sure they are about 1/4″ under the soil. After you do this, seal the whole thing up in a plastic bag so they can set in the fridge for around 10 weeks.

After that is all said and done, germinate like you would any other plant and be sure to have a heating pad underneath. They like a nice, warm environment. After a few weeks, they’ll begin to sprout and once they get to a decent size, it’s time to transplant. While doing this, avoid touching the roots as they are very fragile and it could potentially kill them. Once again, the probability of most of them surviving is very, very low so be patient. The best time to start is when established roses come out of dormancy (typically early spring) so you may want to wait until next year to start this process. I would suggest you try to grow cuttings rather than from seeds for those reasons.

As far as where to place your greenhouse, that will also depend on the type that you are going to grow. If it is already pretty hot, partial shade might be your best bet.

We also have a wonderful few pages on rose gardening that you can check out on our website at: https://www.planetnatural.com/rose-gardening-guru/

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Darian!

There are a few different routes you can go as far as nutrients, but I would highly suggest Flora Series as a simple, easy to use way to get your strawberries up and growing. It is a very popular products that a lot of our customers love and have been using for a long time. You can find the pack on our website at https://www.planetnatural.com/product/flora-series-performance-pack/ as well as the feeding schedule for both recirculating and drain-to-waste options. It is optional to purchase FloraBloom, FloraGrow, and FloraMicro (the main elements to the pack) but, the others are added in for both better success and a smooth running system.

If you have further questions, feel free to call (800) 298-6656 any time between 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday thru Friday and we would be happy to help!

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Mary Beth!

Unfortunately, we only carry small organic gardening starter kits geared more towards indoor gardening. There are a couple different options to choose from and all include directions. You can check those out on our website at https://www.planetnatural.com/product_brand/potting-shed-creations/ but, availability may vary.

If you would like a little more diversity in your garden, we do have the tools necessary for start to finish organic gardening. We have a wide variety organic seeds that you can pick and choose from depending on what you would like to grow. In order to find the best seeds to start, you should look at your hardiness zone. Some veggies do much better than others, so suggestions on which ones to plant are a bit strapped. Once you find plants you are comfortable growing that fit your climate, separate those that will need to be started early indoors and which ones can be planted directly into your soil.

To start seeds inside, the best way to do it would be to pick up the Germination Station. This includes a 72 cell seedling insert tray, a heat mat, humidity dome, and a base tray. This also has instructions and tips to help you along the way to getting your seeds germinated and growing. When they are ready and when the weather is ready, all you need to do is transplant into your garden!

Once you have your garden going, use a good, organic fertilizer, such as Dr. Earth Tomato, Herb, and Vegetable Fertilizer, to increase growth and flowering throughout the season.

We have an organic research page on our website that can answer just about every gardening question out there. I highly suggest you check that out if either of you hit a snag while getting your first garden going. Please also feel free to contact us about any other questions you can’t find an answer to.

Here is the link to our research page: https://www.planetnatural.com/garden-advice/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Vonnie –

There are definitely ways to fix your problems without adversely affecting your lake. In order to improve the conditions with your lawn, I would suggest the Ringer Lawn Restore to give it a pep in it’s step. There are directions on the packaging as to how much you should add and when. If you end up getting close to the water line of your lake, it may simply raise the nitrogen levels, but not to the point where it would harm any aquatic life. The fertilizer contains 0% phosphate so it will NOT contribute to algae blooms.

If you are wondering about getting rid of weeds in your lawn as well, the only other option besides adding Concern Weed Prevention Plus to your lawn (in early spring) would be to use a product called AllDown Organic Herbicide. This product is made from acetic acid and citric acid so there is no worry of nasty chemicals leeching into the lake. The only downside is that it is non-selective and will kill the surrounding grass in which case you would need to wait for it to grow back on it’s own.

Regarding your mosquito problem, I would suggest the use of Mosquito Dunks in order to prevent mosquito larvae from hatching and causing a fuss around the house. Each dunk covers 100 square feet of water, so apply as many as needed near the water line around your house. These will last up to 30 days, but may need 48 hours to begin working at full speed. These are also harmless to aquatic life as well as pets, children, and wildlife.

Now, onto the fungus gnats. These annoying little critters LOVE moist, wet environments. If there is a way to reel in the watering for a little, this may helps to discourage them from breeding around the lawn. Applying beneficial nematodes will help immensely and they are also safe to be around your lake. Each box is packed with 10 million active units that will cover between 285 to 550 square feet. They will also kill off any other unwanted pests that may be lurking in your soil.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi George –

Thrips can definitely be sneaky pests. If your infestation is heavy, I would suggest pyrethrin to knock down the worst of them and then begin to spot treat other heavily infested areas with Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad). The SNS 209 can also be used, however it is only an all natural pesticide, not a certified organic one, so if you’re not trying to grow certified organic tomatoes, I would give that a try. We have information on all of these products on our website as well as an informational page on thrips that can be found here:

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/thrips-control/

The only plant I can think of to ward them off would be chrysanthemums. Other than that, just keep an eye on the population of thrips (blue sticky traps work wonders for monitoring).

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Bonnie,

The Rosy Pussytoes will not be ready for harvest until mid June, so we should have them in late June.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi David.

We’re sorry to hear the rain is causing a problem with your traps! The best way to solve that problem is to pick up some hole reinforcement labels to strengthen the surrounding paper at your local office supply store, Apply one to each side for extra strength and to prevent them from tearing when they get wet.

You may also want to consider hanging the traps with bulldog clips — those springy steel clips used to bind paper — for added support.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Colleen –

I see no problem covering Gnat Nix with landscaping stones for a better look. Just make sure to apply a 1/2″-3/4″ thick layer of Gnat Nix! top dressing to fully cover the surface of the growing medium in your containers. Make sure the entire top surfaces of all your plants are fully covered at all times. The product will create an effective physical barrier against fungus gnats and I suspect the stones will only enhance this barrier.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

I suspect that the organic essential oils in Zero Tolerance will have an effect on honey bees if applied directly on them. However, the fungicide does not persist long in the environment and proper application could cut down on the risk to bees considerably.

• Avoid spraying it on or near blossoms
• Apply when honey bees are least active — spray in the evening as bees move back to the hive!

Note: I’ve seen some sources suggest that spraying in the morning is fine, but bees are active early when temperatures are warm. They’ll be arriving, if not during spraying, then before the moisture has a chance to evaporate.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Marcella –

When adding bokashi to the garden, you need to go through a few steps. Once you have a full bucket, transfer the contents to either a 30 gallon tub (with a lid) or a dug out trench in your yard. After you’ve done that, you’ll need to cover it with a few inches of soil and wait around 3 to 4 weeks before you have a good compost to add to the garden.

As for the making bokashi tea, dilute 1-2 oz/ gallon of water. More information can be found on our Bokashi Composting page.

https://www.planetnatural.com/composting-101/indoor-composting/bokashi-composting/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Debi –

Praying Mantis egg cases can take 6-8 weeks of warm temperatures, 65-75 degrees daytime, no lower than 45 degrees at night, to hatch. If immediate release is inconvenient you can keep the egg case(s) in the refrigerator for up to one week, but they must be in a ventilated container. DO NOT FREEZE.

To release, simply tie the praying mantis egg case(s) to twigs or branches about three feet above the ground. Birds and rodents will feed on them, so placing them in a container with holes large enough for the mantis to escape — 1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter — will provide protection.

To speed up the hatch, we recommend placing egg cases — still in the bag — on top of a refrigerator, or some place that is consistently warm, but not hot. Do not place them on a windowsill as temperatures fluctuate too much.

Note: Tiny praying mantis nymphs will emerge through the narrow slits of the egg case. Unless you can find the small nymphs (1/8 inch), it is impossible to tell if the egg cases have actually hatched — the egg case will NOT change in appearance.

If there’s no sign of the nymphs after 6-8 weeks, please feel free to contact us. Here is a link to our website for more information on praying mantis: http://www.planetnatural.com/product/praying-mantis-egg-cases/.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Terry –

Yes, the product label states that Surround WP often enhances fruit quality if applications start at petal fall and are continued until mid to late season. Also, I see no problem using Harvest Guard with Surround WP.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Terry –

Yes, Surround WP will control apple maggot damage. The product forms a barrier film, which acts as a broad spectrum crop protectant for controlling damage from various insects and disease pests. Also, some apple cultivars have shown less bitter pit and corking when used all season long.

To protect trees from apple maggots apply two sprays seven days apart before expected oviposition (identified as small pinpricks made on the apple surface) or first detection of infestation. Continue applications every 7-14 days to keep fruit completely covered during egg laying.

Note: Red Sphere Traps placed throughout the canopy can help you determine where to treat and pest levels.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Dinnie –

It is not too late to treat tent caterpillars with Bt-k or spinosad. They are the two most effective, least toxic products available for controlling these destructive pests. I would also recommend that you restrict caterpillar movement and cut off access to feeding areas with Tree Tanglefoot Pest Barrier. If all else fails, apply a fast-acting botanical pesticide as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment. They will also reduce the number of caterpillars that will develop into egg-laying adults.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi John –

Yes, it is possible to get rid of fungus gnats without using toxic chemicals. Here’s what we recommend (https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/fungus-gnat-control/):

• Inspect plants thoroughly prior to purchase for signs of insect pests. Turn up soil carefully near the base of the plant and look for the glossy, clear larvae. Reject any plant sending up flying gnats.
• Fungus gnats do best in damp soils; be careful not to overwater, especially during winter months when plants use less. When potting, avoid water holding, organic material such as peat moss that may encourage egg laying.
• If pests are present, allow the soil to dry to a depth of one to two inches between waterings. This not only kills larvae and inhibits the development of eggs, it also makes the soil less attractive to egg-laying females. Apply Gnat Nix as a top dressing to significantly reduce pest populations.
• Use Yellow Sticky Traps placed horizontally at the soil surface to capture large numbers of egg laying adults. The gnats are attracted to yellow and are easily removed on the trap before they can lay more eggs.
• Mosquito Bits and Microbe-Lift® BMC contain Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis, a highly selective biological pesticide that kills damaging larvae, yet is SAFE for fish, wildlife, humans and non-target species. Contains NO harmful residues.
• Top dress houseplants with Beneficial Nematodes to destroy the larvae stage. Nematodes are microscopic round worms that penetrate fungus gnat larvae, as well as harmful lawn and garden grubs , fleas, and other soil-borne pests (they do not harm earthworms), then release a bacterium that consumes the pest from the inside out. The long-lasting nematodes are safe for use around pets, plants, and your family.
• Flying Insect Killer, a combination of peppermint, cinnamon and sesame oils, is a non-toxic spray that will get rid of gnats and other insects that gather around windows.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

They sure sound like springtails to me. Please see the following link to learn how to control these tiny, swarming bugs indoors and out — without toxic chemical sprays!

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/springtail-control/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mary –

To combat Japanese beetles, apply Scanmask® Beneficial Nematodes by hand as a topdressing, or add to seed furrows and around transplants. Concentrate applications to areas with signs of damage and areas in full sun. Treat drip zones of shrubs and trees. Apply in early spring or fall — one pack will treat 510 square feet.

Other organic and natural methods for getting rid of Japanese beetles include:

• In the early morning or late evening, shake beetles from plants onto ground sheets and destroy.
• Place pheromone traps around the perimeter of your property as adults emerge (May-July).
• Floating row cover (Harvest-Guard®) can be used as a physical barrier to prevent adult beetles from damaging plants.
• Milky Spore (Bacillus popilliae) is a naturally occurring host specific bacterium that attacks the destructive white grubs in turf. Apply 10 oz per 2,500 sq ft anytime of year when the ground is NOT frozen.
• Surround WP (kaolin clay) forms a protective barrier film, which acts as a broad spectrum crop protectant for preventing damage from a large number of insect pests.
• Azatrol EC contains azadirachtin, the key insecticidal ingredient found in neem oil. This concentrated spray is approved for organic use and offers multiple modes of action, making it virtually impossible for insect resistance to develop. Best of all, it’s non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.
• As a last resort, spot treat adults with botanical pesticides. Apply to all leaf surfaces and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Sandy –

In the absence of soil test results, apply 2.5 to 5 lbs per 100 square feet (2-4 Tbsp per plant) in early spring or fall and water thoroughly. Otherwise, use the guidelines below to achieve a pH of 6.5 in your vegetable garden.

Current pH	Amount per 100 square feet
6.0	3.5 lbs (5 cups)
5.5	7.5 lbs (10 cups)
5.0	11 lbs (15 cups)
4.5	15 lbs (20 cups)
4.0	17.5 lbs (24 cups)

You can also check out our website page here (https://www.planetnatural.com/product-category/organic-gardening/soil-care/ph-adjustment/) for more information and all kinds of pH adjustment products.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Paula –

When using Microbe-Lift BMC for fungus gnats we feel it’s best to mix 1-2 drops per gallon of water and apply as a soil drench. The product is a super concentrated Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bt-i) formula that is very effective against the larvae of this destructive soil pest. For and integrated approach to pest control, Yellow Sticky Traps are also recommended to catch the flying, egg laying adults.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Scott!

I’m glad to hear that your avocado is coming along well! I would suggest that you transfer it into a pot with some quality organic potting soil and mix a bit of sand in with it to give it a little extra drainage. That will help to prevent root rot which seems to be a common problem with avocado trees.

I have also seen a few resources that suggest not to fertilize for the first year, but if you would like to give it some fertilizer before then, add a bit of Dr. Earth Fruit Tree Fertilizer if it seems to be lacking. Remember to get a good watering schedule down so as to avoid any problems and ensure that your tree will flourish.

I hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Bob –

Trichogramma are shipped as pupae in host eggs, glued to paper strips, and arrive ready to hatch out as adult wasps. Releases should be made when moths are first present and periodically thereafter. Use 5,000 parasites (1 square) per 5,000 square feet weekly, or every other week for 3 to 6 consecutive weeks.

Rain will not hurt the young parasites, but cooler weather will delay their hatch. Ants can be a problem as they eat the eggs. However, placing them in strategic areas should prevent this.

Tip: Hang each square from a piece of thread, and fasten the cup they arrive in over the eggs (like a bell). This will protect the moth egg parasites from ants and help keep them dry.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jean –

To treat iron deficiency in your container grown plants apply 2 oz per gallon of water and saturate the soil around the base of plants. Water thoroughly after application and repeat every 3 months or sooner, if needed. You can also spray the leaves using 1 oz/ gallon of water. A second application should be made in 14 days. May be combined with soil applications for faster and longer lasting recovery.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Fred –

AllDown Organic Herbicide is a 23% vinegar-based weed and grass killer that works on contact. When applying to lawns make sure to spot treat the weeds only. Do NOT blanket spray the area as the spray will kill whatever it contacts. You will get a small ring of dead grass around the weed, but it will eventually grow back and fill in the area.

For best results, spray on a warm sunny day when young weeds are growing more actively. Overspray or drift will injure or kill contacted vegetation, so it’s best to apply when the wind is not blowing.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jean –

We really like the Insect Lore Live Ladybug Land which can be found here:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/lady-bug-land/

You can gather your own ladybugs for the kit or purchase them from us.

Enjoy!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Rae –

Do you know what kind of bugs are attacking your weeping ficus? Please let us know and we will put together our recommendations.

Thank you!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Allen –

Neem oil acts as an insect growth regulator and is mildly toxic to trichogramma wasps. Also, it has been shown to have no adverse effects on the development of the parasitoid inside pest eggs. However, because neem applications deter oviposition — parasitization — we feel that it should be avoided when releasing the tiny wasps.

Note: Azadirachtin, a major component of neem oil, breaks down quickly in the environment and should not persist for longer than 3-7 days.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Maggie –

You’re in luck! There are many good products for natural mosquito control. Please click on the link below for our page on how to get rid of mosquitoes using time-tested, organic and natural techniques.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/mosquito-control/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Laura –

As a follow up, I asked the manufacturer how soon after using AllDown can an area be replanted? Here’s what they said:

“Pretty much right away. It only kills what it touches. If it is not up and growing AllDown will have no effect on seedlings that have not germinated.”

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Laura –

Our best organic herbicide is AllDown, which contains 23% horticultural vinegar and 14% acetic acid. It is a non-selective, fast-acting contact spray used for eliminating broadleaf weeds and unwanted grass. Easy to use, just mix AllDown concentrate with 3 parts water and treat at a rate of 7.5 to 15 oz/ 100 sq ft. For grasses and perennial weeds higher application rates and repeat treatments may be required. Only contacted vegetation will be affected.

AllDown Organic Herbicide breaks down quickly in the soil and treated areas can be replanted in a day or two. However, grasses and established perennial weeds may require higher application rates and/ or 2 to 3 treatments.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jim –

Bonide Orchard Spray will control a wide range of fungal diseases and insects on fruit trees. However, it will not work on many of the insects and fungal problems you listed. I have attached a few links that should help:

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/tree-pests/
https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/plant-disease/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Sarah –

Hmm, let me guess… was it Miracle Gro Potting Soil?

Fungus gnats are a common pest of plants grown indoors, especially where humidity and moisture are high. Now that you’ve had a problem with them you will notice them flying around most nurseries and garden stores. To combat them you will need to go after both the larvae (in the soil) and the egg laying adults. We typically recommend you top dress houseplants with Beneficial Nematodes to destroy the larvae stage and Yellow Sticky Traps placed horizontally at the soil surface to capture large numbers of adults. Here’s a link that will help:

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/fungus-gnat-control/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Marian –

It sounds like using the Top Fin is going to be your best line of defense with the Chloramine in your water. I don’t know what other products could offer you the ability to remove it or lower your sodium content other than an RO system. Your only other option it seems at this point would be to purchase distilled water at a local grocery store or gas station and work with that until the drought ends if you find the treated tap water is affecting your plants too much.

I hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Tom –

What can you do to prevent pest problems down the road? Lot’s. Discouraging orchard pests by knowing the conditions they favor, say lots of moisture, and then denying them is a start. Veteran growers know what pests to expect in their area on the specific trees they plant. If you’re new to fruit trees, you might want to take a look at the following page for a list of common orchard and tree pests complete with pictures and earth-friendly remedies.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/tree-pests/

With that said, some of the first-line defenses of organic garden and IPM programs for orchards, things like Tanglefoot Pest Barrier, Orchard Spray, Insecticidal Soap, and Kaolin Clay, should be in every gardener’s shed.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi George –
I would highly reccomend Spinosad for your thrip problem. It is a microbial insecticide that must be eaten to be effective, meaning your beneficial nematodes and lacewings will be minimally affected by its application. Blue Sticky Traps are another great product that could be used for monitoring your pests. Thrips are attracted to the blue color, this visual attractant allows one to monitor the size of population and life cycle stages. This information can help you decide if it’s necessary to apply another round of spinosad, or if nematodes or lacewings may be more effective.

Timing is crucial to a proper IPM management plan. Applying nematodes in spring and/or fall before the pests emerge from the soil is one part of the equation. Timing pesticide applications, environmental or physical control methods and beneficial insect releases would be another. Thrips can be sprayed off the plant with high pressured water, using a product such as the Bug Blaster. If going this route, spray in the morning or before the heat of the day. Plant must dry completely before night falls to avoid powdery mildew and other foliar diseases.

I would suggest a foliar spray down, followed by an application of spinosad, and a release of lacewing larvae one-two days after. Nematodes can be applied at anytime, but will be most effective in spring and fall to control populations that overwinter in the soil.

Good Luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Helene –

You can apply Dr. Earth Vegetable Garden Fertilizer during transplanting, sowing seeds, or even mid-season for a nutritional boost to maximize your harvest. It is a spectacular blend that has 4% nitrogen, so it will not burn plants. Use it any time of year to build soil health, promote a superior harvest, with larger and more abundant, nutritious and tasty crops. It’s a favorite!

Hope it helps!

[Author]

Posts