Ant Colony


Have an ant problem? Here’s how to get rid of ants permanently — both inside and outside — using proven, organic and natural control strategies.

As a group, ants are important natural predators of many insect pests including flea and fly larvae, caterpillars and termites. However, there are times when it may be necessary to get rid of an ant problem, especially when they are found in the kitchen searching for food. Some species invade lawns and gardens where they build large unsightly mounds or protect aphids, mealybugs, scales and other insects from their natural enemies. They can also damage plants by tunneling around the roots causing them to dry out. Read on to learn our 8 step treatment program for getting rid of ants naturally and save BIG money doing it yourself!


Common in and around the home, ants range in size from about 1/32 to 3/4 inch long. They have three body parts (head, thorax and abdomen) and can be anywhere from a yellowish-red in color to black. Most are wingless, but winged forms exist during “swarming” or colony reproduction. Ants have pincer-like jaws and can bite although most do not. A few species are very aggressive and will inflict a painful sting.

Tip: Look closely to determine if what you see is an ant or a termite. Ants have narrow waists and bent antennae. Termites have thick waists and straight antennae.

Life Cycle

Ants are social insects and live in colonies with three distinct types of adults called castes. Queens are larger than their peers and are responsible for egg laying. Some species have only one queen per colony whereas others have many. Males are responsible for mating with the queens; they do not participate in any other activities. Workers are sterile wingless females. They make up the bulk of the colony and are responsible for building and defending the nest, caring for the young and foraging for food.

New colonies are established by a single fertilized queen that lays hundreds of eggs. After about 30 days the eggs hatch into legless larvae that do not resemble adults. The queen cares for the “maggot-like” larvae until they pupate approximately 1-2 months later. Within three weeks the pupae transform into adult workers, which begin collecting food for themselves, the queen and for future generations of larvae. Eggs are laid continuously throughout the spring, summer and fall. Colonies overwinter in the soil, woody areas or in garden trash.

How to Control

Like all pests, ants require food and water to survive; by eliminating these basic necessities you can greatly reduce their numbers.

  1. Store food and organic wastes in sealed containers, clean up all kitchen surfaces and empty trash daily.
  2. Caulk cracks and crevices around foundations and apply Don’t Bug Me Spray to door and window jams to prevent entry from outside.
  3. Where pipes and electrical wires enter the house spread Tanglefoot Pest Barrier to keep crawling pests outside.
  4. Diatomaceous earth contains no toxic poisons and works quickly on contact. Dust lightly and evenly around areas where pest insects are found.
  5. Apply Organic Insect Killer Granules around foundations, lawns and landscaped areas to eliminate or repel all kinds of crawling insects.
  6. Dust Boric Acid (Borax) lightly into cracks, crevices, wall voids and other insect hiding places. This fine powder clings to the legs, antennae and bodies of crawling insects and acts as a stomach poison when consumed during grooming.
  7. Spray Orange Guard in and around the kitchen to kill on contact. Approved for organic use, Orange Guard is a broad spectrum insect killer that’s safe to use inside or out. Repeat applications may be necessary.
  8. Safer Ant & Roach Killer is the first effective, truly organic aerosol that kills crawling insects in seconds. Best of all, it has a fresh citrus scent, so there is no chemical odor!

Tip: The best way to keep these industrious insects from coming indoors is to locate the mound and destroy the colony. Set pre-filled outdoor bait stations where pests are found. Botanical pesticides applied directly to the soil will also destroy existing mounds.

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