[Eric Vinje]

Hi Matt –

Sweat bees are non-aggressive flying insects that play a role in pollination. Yes, they can be pestiferous when they invade your outdoor living spaces and will often crawl under your clothes or in your hair for the human sweat, or salt, that they crave.

To control sweat bees you can build traps, apply any of our flying insect sprays, or drench their ground nests with a liquid pyrethrin solution to completely eliminate them in their burrows. However, because these solitary bees are useful pollinating insects I suggest changing their habitat so that they move elsewhere. Sweat bees prefer dry sunny areas and do not like to compete with a thick layer of mulch/ compost. Add a heavy amount to areas where nesting occurs and they will most likely leave. I have also heard that a living mulch like ivy will work well to deter these busy — and sometimes manic — insects.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

In most cases, termites do not eat live trees they only eat the dead, decaying material. With that said you should remove the termites as quickly as possible, especially if the tree is near your house. Also, I would not recommend stacking firewood or using wood mulch around your home if termites are present. Here’s my recommendations for getting rid of termites in trees.

1.) Prune away any dead or dying branches.
2.) Burn or throw away the problem branches to prevent pests from spreading.
3.) Locate the termite colony (yes, cardboard and commercial traps can help!) and destroy it using proven, natural treatments.
4.) Continue monitoring the tree and surrounding areas for termite activity.
5.) Keep moisture away from your home’s foundation and repair cracks, if any.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Woop! Woop! Thanks for the great comments Peter. At Planet Natural we really do try to be more responsive than other gardening stores and I’m glad it shows.

Our expert staff has in-depth experience helping other gardeners and first-hand knowledge of our products. Many of our employees are horticultural students from Montana State University and love to talk about gardening topics.

Thanks again Peter — you made our day! Could you take 60 seconds to leave a review on Google and/or Yelp and share your positive experiences?

We will be forever grateful.

Eric Vinje, Owner
Planet Natural

[Eric Vinje]

A growing pest of greenhouse and indoor garden plants, root aphids can multiply quickly, unseen, and sap enough vigor from your plants to kill them. Here’s how to eliminate them indoors organically.

Avoid importing soil or other growing medium of unknown origin into your growing space. Many nursery plants, especially those from large, commercial growers, have been found to carry root aphids and their eggs into green houses.

Use yellow sticky traps across indoor grow spaces to discover signs of root aphids on the move.

Pay careful attention to your plants. Roots that are visible in grow cups and other hydroponic methods should be periodically inspected. The small, usually white mite stage may be noticeable attached to the sides of grow cups, tanks and trays.

Beneficial nematodes introduced to hydroponic solutions at the first sign of infestation may slow the spread of root aphids.

With lights off, saturate the growing medium with a solution of Nuke Em (1 oz/ 31 oz water). Slowly pour near the plant stem into the soil and let stand for at least 1 hour — longer contact times are best. Rinse the media before turning lights back on.

BotaniGard ES is a highly effective biological insecticide containing Beauveria bassiana, an entomopathogenic fungus that attacks a long-list of troublesome crop pests – even resistant strains! Weekly applications can prevent insect population explosions and provide protection equal to or better than conventional chemical pesticides.

When treating aphids in various indoor growing mediums, complete and thorough coverage of infected areas is critical to control. Submerge infested grow cups and root balls completely in a pyrethrum concentrate for a half-minute or more, gently swirling roots and medium to insure complete saturation.

Remove badly infested plants. No orchid, no herb or flowering perennial is worth risking your other plants and the health of your entire grow space in an attempt to wait out harvest on an affected plant.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mark –

The ideal pH range for most hydroponic crops is between 5.5 and 6.5. However, we do not have a recommended table for adjusting pH. According to General Hydroponics you should start out with one milliliter pH Down per gallon. Wait 15 To 30 minutes, and test your water again. Frequently you will only need 1 to 2 ml per gallon of water. You may need additional pH Up/Down if you have hard water.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Woop! Woop! Thanks for the great review Wyatt. At Planet Natural we really do try to be more responsive than other gardening stores and I’m glad it shows. Come back and see us again soon and please let other gardeners know what you think on Yelp and Google.

How to Write a Google Review
1.) Do a Google search for Planet Natural.
2.) On the right hand side of search results you will see Planet Natural’s My Business page.
3.) Scroll down to reveiws and click “Write A Review.”
4.) Sign in with your Google or Gmail account
5.) Write and post your review.

How to Write a Yelp Review
1.) Do a Google search for Planet Natural.
2.) Scroll through search results until you find Yelp’s page and click on it.
3.) Click “Write A Review.”
4.) Write and post your review.
5.) Yelp may require you to login or create an account.

[Eric Vinje]

Thanks for the awesome review, Noel! We work hard to meet customer expectations like yours, and we’re happy to hear we hit the mark. Come back and see us again soon and please let other gardeners know what you think on Yelp and Google.

How to Write a Google Review
1.) Do a Google search for Planet Natural.
2.) On the right hand side of search results you will see Planet Natural’s My Business page.
3.) Scroll down to reveiws and click “Write A Review.”
4.) Sign in with your Google or Gmail account
5.) Write and post your review.

How to Write a Yelp Review
1.) Do a Google search for Planet Natural.
2.) Scroll through search results until you find Yelp’s page and click on it.
3.) Click “Write A Review.”
4.) Write and post your review.
5.) Yelp may require you to login or create an account.

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

From what we could research, it sounds like what you’re seeing is physiological leaf roll due to excess moisture. If your plants are on a drip system, or if your watering schedule didn’t change after the rainstorms, the soil could become too saturated. Some of the plants you have can be “big drinkers” and like the extra water, which is why you could be seeing the damage in only some plants. The extra water from the rain and the humidity in Florida create the combination of “excess moisture” which your plants seem to be responding to immediately. Our best recommendation would be to alter your watering schedule and or help the soil by aerating it with an spike aerator.

Not sure what’s on your plants or how to treat them? View our Plant Diseases page for pictures, descriptions and remedies.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Danny –

Once the gypsy moth trap is set up just drop the pheromone lure or bait into the carton through the top opening. Close the top and attach a string or wire for hanging.

Handling Precautions
Dispose of empty packaging away from baited trap because moths may be attracted to discarded package. Refrigerate or freeze lure to extend storage life. Lures stored for more than one season may not retain peak effectiveness.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Linda –

All natural Spray-N-Grow Micronutrients provides plants essential micronutrients they require to grow, bloom and produce fruit to their maximum potential. It is completely safe and easy to use on ALL plants – vegetables, fruits, flowers, shrubs, fruit trees, and houseplants.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Thanks Wyatt –

We love hearing from our satisfied customers. I will pass your comments along to the staff. You made our day!

Eric Vinje, Owner
Planet Natural

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Shirley –

This is a tricky situation where any pesticidal spray is going to affect both the milkweed weevils and also the monarch butterflies. I think you were on the right path with the pheromones, but there might be some other, better options. I’ve found some articles that suggest gypsy moth traps have been shown to capture a few milkweed stem weevils, however it seems like the weevils were probably there by chance due to the high amount of traps they applied in the study (most pheromone lures are specific to a pest). A more effective control (in terms of cost and eradicating the weevil) would be to apply nematodes directly to the larva in the stems. Mix up a solution of nematodes with water, pull some of it up with garden syringe, and inject a bit into each entrance hole on the stems. Along with this, another preventative option would be to create a barrier between the plant and the ground, such as a plastic mulch. Since the weevils drop from the plant to pupate in the ground, this would block them from being able to do that.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Steve –

Exhale CO2 bags come pre-activated and are already producing CO2 when you receive them. They produce CO2 24 hours a day for up to 6 months. It is designed for small to medium grow spaces , or more specifically 1 ExHale Cultivator will provide 4-6 plants with the CO2 they need. ExHale can be used for both vegetative plant growth as well as for fruit and flower production.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jennifer –

The rate to use Mycostop in a hose end sprayer has not been developed. The product can be applied as drench or normal sprayer.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Frederick –

In general, yes. Any fertilizer that is used in a lawn or garden should be mixable with Microp. And surprisingly, insecticides don’t appear to harm these organisms.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Thanks Noel –

Your comments are very much appreciated.

Eric Vinje, Owner
Planet Natural

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Dave –

Sap beetles are difficult to treat because they almost always attack ripe fruits that are ready for harvest. I do not feel comfortable recommending a botanical spray application on ripe fruit that’s ready to eat. While botanical insecticides have fewer harmful side effects and break down more quickly in the environment than synthetic pesticides, they are still toxic and should be used with great care.

I think your best best now is to harvest all berries and treat with a short-lived, natural insecticide to knock down existing beetles. While this does nothing to prevent additional beetles from moving into the area, it may reduce pest numbers enough to salvage future harvests. Make sure to harvest fruit as it ripens to eliminate both the odor and availability of susceptible fruits.

Note: When spraying edible crops, it is important to follow the product label and observe the time period between application and when you can harvest.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Rooney –

Vermicomposting, or worm composting is the proverbial win-win situation. It gives you a convenient way to dispose of kitchen scraps and other green waste and turns it into a rich, dark organic soil that smells like earth and feels like magic. Made of almost pure worm castings, it’s a sort of super compost. Now, on to the questions…

I read where I only need to feed my worms about once a week and in very small amounts that are cut up into small pieces or they won’t have enough time to eat and compost their food. Is that true?

Yes, It’s best to feed worms once a week in small amounts. If you feed them more than they can process you will end up with a stinking worm bin as the garbage literally backs up.

What do I do with the pieces of scrap food that are waiting to be given to the worms to eat without it piling up, smelling so bad, and attracting unwanted bugs?

If your worms are eating too slowly, chop up vegetable scraps, which is easier for them to eat and gives new meaning to the term “fast food.” If the chopping doesn’t help enough, reduce the amount of organic matter you are feeding them and store it in a kitchen compost pail.

Are there any top tier/priority things I need to know before I start this thing?

Not really, Although I recommend you start with a smaller number of worms until you get the hang of it. Once your worm bin is up and running, it requires little maintenance until it’s time to harvest the castings and give your worms some new bedding.

How hard is maintaining a worm farm?

It’s not hard at all. In fact, having a worm bin requires very little attention. Worms are surprisingly low-maintenance housemates. They don’t need to be fed every day, they make no noise, and their bins only need to be cleaned every three to six months.

When is the compost ready to use? How will I know?

Once the contents of your bin have turned to worm castings — brown, earthy-looking stuff — it’s time to harvest the castings and give your worms new bedding. To harvest the castings, simply push the partially composted food to the middle of the bin and add more food scraps. Replace the lid. The worms will head for the new food. Once they’ve relocated to the food pile, remove the castings without taking out any worms. Once they’ve been harvested, replace the bedding. Voila!

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Dan –

Instructions for Using Gypsy Moth Trap

Pheromone Monitoring
Pheromone lures and traps provide an effective means of monitoring Gypsy Moth. Each lure contains a synthetic sex pheromone that mimics the odor that the female moth uses to attract males for the purpose of mating. male moths are attracted into the trap and cannot get out. Trap counts, when taken on a regular basis, can give an accurate picture of population emergence and distribution.

Numbers of Traps and Lures Needed
For survey and detection of populations, only one trap/lure is needed for every three square miles. A larger number of traps, approximately thirty two per square mile, would be needed to determine the distribution within an infested area. the traps should be placed in a grid pattern.

Life expectancy of the Gypsy Moth lure in approximately four weeks. You will need to purchase enough lures per trap to complete the monitoring season.

Timing for Placement of Traps
Monitoring should begin in early summer, just prior to the moth flight.

Placement of Traps
Traps should be placed at eye level in the canopies of the trees being monitored. When using more than one Gypsy Moth trap, never place them closer than thirty feet apart.

Trap Counts
Traps should be be checked and insects cleaned out and counted regularly, prefer- ably at least twice per week. Consult your local county extension agent or university Entomology department to learn more about Gypsy Moth in your area.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Francis –

Roses aren’t too choosy about the type of fertilizer they receive, as long as they are being fed. Roses grown in containers should be fed with a water-soluble liquid fertilizer on a regular basis.

When choosing the best fertilizer for your roses, look for a balanced, high-quality fertilizer (4-4-4) that includes macro and micronutrients. Roses require the following micro-nutrients for healthy growth:

• Calcium (Ca): Builds cell wall strength, which helps your plants fight off predators

• Magnesium (Mg): Promotes dark green leaves, flower color, flower production, and can help flush harmful salts through the soil; we recommend Epsom Salts

• Sulfur (S)

• Copper (Cu)

• Iron (Fe)

• Manganese (Mn)

• Zinc (Zn)

For your best blooms, we recommend using Alaska Fish Fertilizer, Neptune’s Harvest Fish & Seaweed or Neptune’s Harvest Fish Fertilizer.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Larry –

Actinovate contains a high concentration of a patented beneficial microorganism. When applied, the microbe grows on the plant’s roots and leaves, living off the plant’s by-products while at the same time attacking harmful disease causing pathogens. This natural product effectively suppresses and controls a wide range of foliar and root diseases.

Actinovate fungicide can be tank mixed or dry mixed with all fungicides, insecticides and fertilizers unless otherwise restricted on the product label. For best results on turf, use a wetting agent in conjunction with Actinovate in order to help move product to the root system of the lawn.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Karin –

Common on indoor plants, whiteflies re small, sap-sucking insects often found in thick crowds on the undersides of leaves. When infested plants are disturbed, great clouds of the winged adults fly into the air. They damage plants by sucking the juices from new growth causing stunted growth, leaf yellowing and reduced yields. Here’s how to get rid of whitefly using proven, organic techniques.

Yellow sticky traps are helpful for monitoring and suppressing adult populations.

If found, use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.

Natural predators of this pest include ladybugs and lacewing larvae, which feed on their eggs and the whitefly parasite which destroys nymphs and pupae. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If using ladybugs indoors, wrap the plants with gardening fabric (row cover) and place them inside the cover. This helps keep the bugs around the pest problem and has been proven to be very successful.

Safer® Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed.

BotaniGard ES is a highly effective biological insecticide containing Beauveria bassiana, an entomopathogenic fungus that attacks a long-list of troublesome crop pests – even resistant strains! Weekly applications can prevent insect population explosions and provide protection equal to or better than conventional chemical pesticides.

Organic Neem Oil can be sprayed on vegetables, fruit trees and flowers to kill eggs, larvae and adults. Mix 1 oz/ gallon of water and spray all leaf surfaces (including the undersides of leaves) until completely wet.

Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

Are you sure the white flies in your lawn are not the adult stage or moth of sod webworms? They are a small (1/2 inch long) white-brown moth with pale yellow or brown markings on their wings. They have a habit of folding their wings up closely to their bodies when at rest, and if disturbed, the moths fly in a zigzag pattern for short distances before settling again.

Please take a look at the link I’ve provided for pest pictures, descriptions and a complete list of earth-friendly remedies.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Kate –

I’ve attached a couple of links that should help.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/garden-pests/wireworm-control/

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/sowbug-pillbug-control/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Dennis –

Generally, if the leaves are turning brown at the bottom of your plant it will be an indication of fungal infection. However, there are steps you can take to prevent infections, such as fungal rot, in tomato plants.

• Removed any discolored and diseased branches. Be sure to sterilize your garden tools! We recommend Isopropyl Alcohol.

• If possible, water from the bottom of the plant using a soaker hose. If soaking isn’t an option, be sure to water early in the day to allow plants plenty of dry time.

• Ensure proper spacing between plants to ensure that there is plenty of air flow. Air flow is crucial in keeping fungus, bacteria and mold from forming on plants.

• Apply products designed to treat fungal infection. We recommend Liquinox or Serenade.

• Avoid planting night shade varieties in the infected soil for at least 2 seasons. Plant other garden items, such as garlic, in the affected areas.

Taking these steps will ensure that your tomatoes yield their optimal potential and produce delicious fruits for the long haul!

Cheers!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello!

There’s some good news and some bad news. It looks like your pest problem is a termite. The good part is that they won’t harm your plants, because they feed on decaying wood, not living plant material. The bad news is that your wood banister is probably being munched on. The best thing to do would be to check out our termite control page and see what works best for you.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/household-pests/termite-control/

The Difference Between Termites and Ants
• Termites have relatively straight antennae.
• Ants have elbowed antennae.
• The termite abdomen is broadly joined to the thorax — no waist.
• Ants have a narrow waist and appear segmented.
• Termites have two pair of wings (front and back) that are almost equal in length.
• Ants have two pair of wings — the front wings are much larger than the back wings.

Best of luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Tony –

Bamboo is tolerant of a wide array of growing conditions, soil not excluded. Although plants can tolerate anything from straight sand, to nothing but water there are soil mixes that can be more ideal than others. Most varieties of bamboo will thrive in silty, sandy, slightly acidic (6.2-7 pH) soil. Our Roots Greenlite, Roots Original Potting soil or most any other basic potting soils with a thick layer of sand or clay at the bottom for drainage would be excellent for bamboo.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Sue –

Immature and adult stages of leafhoppers can damage home vegetable gardens. They feed by puncturing the undersides of leaves and sucking out plant juices. Their toxic saliva causes spotting (white specks), yellowing, leaf curling, stunting and distortion of plants. Here’s how to control them without using toxic chemical sprays.

1.) Remove garden trash and other debris shortly after harvest to reduce over-wintering sites.

2.) Floating row covers can be used as a physical barrier to keep leafhoppers from damaging plants.

3.) Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and minute pirate bugs, are all voracious predators of both the egg and young larval stage.

4.) Apply diatomaceous earth to plants and/or spot treat with insecticidal soap to keep pest populations under control. Thorough coverage of both upper and lower infested leaves is necessary for effective control.

5.) BotaniGard ES is a highly effective biological insecticide containing Beauveria bassiana, an entomopathogenic fungus that attacks a long-list of troublesome crop pests – even resistant strains! Weekly applications can prevent insect population explosions and provide protection equal to or better than conventional chemical pesticides.

6.) If pest levels become intolerable, spot treat with potent, fast-acting organic insecticides as a last resort.

Hop it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

It sounds to me like your young trees have peach leaf curl. Symptoms appears in spring as reddish areas on developing leaves. These areas become thick and puckered causing leaves to curl and distort. When severe, leaf curl can substantially reduce fruit production.

To treat this fungal disease we recommend the following steps.

1.) Leaf curl can be controlled by applying sulfur or copper-based fungicides that are labeled for use on peaches and nectarines. Spray the entire tree after 90% of the leaves have dropped in the fall and again in the early spring, just before the buds open. For best results, trees should be sprayed to the point of runoff or until they start dripping.

2.) Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.

3.) Keep the ground beneath the trees raked up and clean, especially during winter months.

4.) Prune and destroy infected plant parts as they appear.

5.) If disease problems are severe, maintain tree health and vigor by cutting back more fruit than normal, watering regularly (avoiding wetting the leaves if possible) and apply an organic fertilizers high in nitrogen.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Britta!

Diatomaceous earth is abrasive to crawling insects, like roly-polies, and can be used as a barrier to protect plants. However, it is important to reapply DE after watering, it becomes less effective when wet. Lightly coat the areas where these pests are found or may hide. Repeat treatment as necessary.

Another product you can try is Monterey Ant Control. It’s proven to be effective against pests such as sow bugs and is a safe, organic solution to problems that arise from them. Simply scatter the bait granules on the soil around or near the plants to be protected. In greenhouses, scatter the bait in the pots of plants being damaged or around pots on greenhouse benches.

Below is a link to our page on sow bugs which includes information from life cycle to identification to control with suggested products such as the ones mentioned above.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/sowbug-pillbug-control/

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Gayle –

In most cases, treated seeds have been coated with some sort of pesticide, fungicide or preservative — chemical or biological — to protect them from soil-borne pathogens or to improve storage-life. Obviously, non-treated seeds have not been processed prior to being packaged.

Treated Seeds
• May yield larger crops
• Improves germination rates
• Chemical treatments have not been shown to produce chemically laced plants
• Are most likely grown using conventional farming practices
• Treatment is applied under controlled conditions

Untreated Seeds
• Clean and chemical-free — often used by organic growers
• Many home gardeners are seeking seed that has not been dosed with pesticides
• Some chemical treatments may be harmful to insects, including bees, that eat pollen from the mature plant
• Reduces our direct exposure to chemicals
• Are most likely grown using environmentally sustainable practices

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Chris –

The best way to promote a luscious, green Sir Walter lawn is to water deeply and slowly. Slow watering gives the soil a chance to absorb the moisture, and damp soil, like a damp sponge, absorbs more moisture than dry soil. Deep watering (at least six inches deep) trains your grass roots to go deep, thus making your lawn more resistant to drought. Conversely, frequent but short waterings will encourage the roots to grow close to the surface, which means your lawn will be hurting during any dry spell.

New turf should be watered immediately after application and kept moist until the roots take hold. Don’t wait until the grass actually turns brown. Instead, watch for it to curl, or for it to hold the shape of your footprints as you walk across it. Both of these signs indicate that the grass needs water, well before it is actually stressed. You want it to be thirsty, not dehydrated.

The timing of lawn watering will also influence how much you use. Irrigating turf midday is most wasteful, of course, since this is when temperatures and evaporation are highest, and your lawns’ ability to absorb and retain water is lowest.If you can water first thing in the morning. Watering in the evening often leaves the grass itself wet overnight, conditions that may promote mildew and the fungi that cause most turfgrass diseases.

If your lawn has a sprinkler system, make sure it’s set for maximum efficiency. This includes proper run-settings for early or late waterings that are set to proper amounts. Make sure sprinklers heads are set to efficiently cover lawns without wasting water on sidewalks, driveways, or other areas where it’s not needed.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Christopher –

The Radiant Air Cool Reflector is one of the best and features a patented double-wall design and generous reflective cavity which makes it the coolest running fixture on the market. It is available with 6″ or 8″ flanges and its tempered, foam-sealed hinged glass lens lets you access and change out your sodium or halide lamps (400, 600 or 1000W) fast.

Hydrofarm’s Radiant reflectors are CSA certified, and include lighting recommendations, hangars, a built-in socket, and 15” pre-wired lamp cord.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Tom –

Zoysia grass is one of the most common warm season grasses in the state of Florida. It will grow most vigorously during hot months, going dormant (and brown) in cooler weather. It is suitable for temperate areas that don’t suffer hard-freezes. Here’s how to care for your Zoysia lawn.

Encourage deep, vigorous root growth. It may be gravity that directs the growth of grass roots, but providing the conditions that stimulate that growth guarantees that you’ll get it. That means mowing to proper height, fertilizing, composting, aerating and, yes, watering. Establishing strong roots saves water and increases drought tolerance.

Mowing
Cutting grass too short early in the season may be attractive and save you work but it can sap your lawn’s health. Longer spears of grass increase photosynthesis and water retention. Longer grass shades soil, helping to keep it cool, and inhibits germination of weed seed. Mow at 7-10 day intervals and keep it 1.0″ to 2.5″ tall.

Watering
If you must water (and in most places you must if you want your grass green), do it effectively.

The amount of water your lawn needs depends on the type of grass you grow and your soil conditions. Zoysia lawns require 1.0 inch of moisture a week and can be watered every 5 to 7 days, depending on soil type (sandy soil should be watered more frequently). Make sure the water penetrates deeply, at least five inches or more.

Fertilizing
Feed your lawn every four to six weeks during the growing season. Use an organic fertilizer designed to deliver the nitrogen that grasses need to stay green. Fertilizing your lawn helps insure vigorous, healthy rooting. This allows your grass to make the best use of the water it gets and prevents browning.

Dr. Earth® Lawn Fertilizer (9-3-5) promotes a hardy root system and controls thatch buildup. Best of all, it contains mycorrhizae, beneficial fungi that enhance your lawn’s ability to absorb nutrients and water, to ensure that nutrients are made available to the grass roots, even under high stress conditions. Each 40 lb bag covers 4,400 sq ft.

A spring application of compost will nourish your lawn’s soil and help to insure good moisture retention. Compost can help smother emerging weeds as well as introduce microbial activity that keeps your soil healthy.

Note: Zoysia grass is very susceptible to iron chlorosis. Look for grass that is shading towards yellow, not the rich green that we lawn lovers prefer. If found, mix 1 oz Liquinox Iron & Zinc per gallon of water and apply as a foliar spray over your lawn. A second application may be necessary two weeks later.

Aeration
Aerate your lawn to avoid soil compaction. Compacted soil encourages thatch to build and water to runoff. Aerating is a form of root prune that stimulates strong growth. Small lawns can be aerated using a manual garden aerator or garden fork, big yards will require renting a power aerator.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Catherine –

It sounds to me like you need to add soil amendments to improve your lawn’s soil texture and structure and adjust its pH, rather than its nutritional content. That’s the domain of fertilizer. Too many lawn programs fertilize heavily without adding amendments, which means that plant roots cannot make the best use of the food they’re given.

It’s a good idea to add organic soil amendments like compost at least once a year, to make sure that the soil itself stays healthy. Sulfur (to lower pH) or lime (to raise it) should only be applied after a soil test, since adding the wrong one will damage your grass and the soil beneath it.

Here’s a quick overview of amendments for your lawn soil.

Compost: if you’re not sure what your problem is, add organic compost. For that matter, even if you are sure, add compost. Compost is the miracle amendment, for it improves all soils. It helps balance pH, making acidic soils more alkaline and alkaline ones more acidic. It improves soil retention in sandy soils and drainage in clay soils. Used regularly, it helps reduce compaction, thus improving soil structure.

Make sure the compost is well-finished and gives off only a rich, earth-like odor. Unfinished compost will not only smell but may rob your soil of oxygen. Best times to apply are in the spring before the grass begins to green and/or in the fall after the grass has gone dormant. Whenever you spread compost, do not apply too much. Compost should be spread no more than 1/2 inch deep over existing lawns.

Raising pH (make acidic soils more alkaline): Add wood ashes or agricultural lime, which can be purchased in any of several forms. For lime to be effective, it must be spread evenly, it must be dampened, and it must be in direct contact with the soil. To meet these conditions, rake, dethatch, or aerate before spreading, and water immediately afterwards. Note: Most turf grasses prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH value between 5.8 and 6.5.

Lowering pH (make alkaline soils more acidic): Add sulfur pellets which, like lime, comes in several forms. For ground rock sulfur, add 1.2 ounces per square yard to sandy soils, and 3.6 ounces per square yard for any other soil.

Amending Sandy Soils: Organic additions work better than mineral or synthetic amendments to improve drainage and relieve compaction in sandy soils, because organic matter derived from plants and animals holds many times its own weight in water. Compost adds much more than organic matter, being rich in nutrients and micro-organisms, but for sheer unadulterated water retention, peat and sphagnum moss or coconut fiber are the way to go. Mature, composted manures are also excellent.

Amending Clay Soils: Everything said about sandy soils goes for heavy clay soils as well: compost and other organic amendments are far and away the best. They will make clays more porous, which in turn makes them more workable and improves drainage. Sand and gypsum are frequently suggested for clay soils, but many experts question their effectiveness, and they need to be used carefully. With products derived from plants and animals, you cannot go wrong.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Shaylynn –

Use pheromone traps to determine when codling moths arrive, then release trichogramma wasps to attack their eggs. Releases should be made when codling moths are first present and periodically thereafter. We suggest releasing 5,000 (1 square) per 5,000 square feet weekly, for 3-6 weeks.

Note: Trichogramma wasps are shipped as pupae in host eggs, glued to paper strips, and arrive ready to hatch out as adult wasps. They can be stored after receipt for 2-5 days, between 47 – 50 F. However, the longer they are stored, the higher the mortality rate will be. DO NOT FREEZE.

We also recommend the following organic treatments to prevent wormy apples. These products can be used by themselves or together (with trichogramma) as part of an integrated approach to codling moth control.

Scrape loose bark in early spring to remove overwintering cocoons and then spray All Seasons® horticultural oil to eradicate eggs and first generation early instar stages.

Beneficial nematodes are microscopic, worm-like parasites that actively hunt, penetrate and destroy immature stages of this pest. Spray on trunks and main branches, and also over the soil out to the drip line for a 60% to 90% mortality in pre-pupae.

Surround WP — a wettable kaolin clay — can be used to deter a broad range of fruit tree pests (and diseases), and will reduce codling moth damage by 50-60%. Apply before moths arrive and continue for 6-8 weekly applications, or until the infestation is over.

In areas of severe infestation, spray botanical insecticides when 75% of petals have fallen, followed by three sprays at 1-2 week intervals. These natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Sharon –

Semaspore Grasshopper Bait is pet safe and will not harm your dogs. Containing Nosema locustae as the active ingredient, this biological agent is only toxic to grasshoppers, killing about half those in the hatching area, and infecting most of the remainder. These infected survivors (which eat little and lay few and infected eggs) are necessary to infect new hatchlings and migrants, through cannibalism — this provides the persistent protection. The disease also carries-over to the next year via the infected egg cases and infected cadavers which overwinter.

Infected grasshoppers develop a very large number of the spores within them, so that the cannibalizing grasshoppers get a much greater dose than from the initial Semaspore application. Consequently, the disease acts faster on the cannibalizers. Also, when Semaspore is used, dead grasshoppers aren’t often seen — they’re eaten too quickly by the survivors. Instead, Semaspore effectiveness is evidenced by the steady decrease in grasshopper numbers, and by some infected, weak survivors which aren’t doing damage.

If pest numbers are high, we recommend making smaller, more frequent applications of Semaspore. The bait infects at least 90 species of grasshoppers, the black field cricket, and some other crickets and locusts. However, it is completely non-toxic to anything else, not affecting humans, pets, and the over 250 natural grasshoppers enemies.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Robert –

To start seeds early when it is still cold outside — and frosts are possible — will require protection from a mini greenhouse or cold frame. Not sure you want to invest in something so elaborate? Many growers use clear plastic milk jugs cut in half, repurposed strawberry containers, or covered plastic bins to keep soil and seeds warm during cold weather. A heat mat can also be used outside to warm the rooting area 10-20° F over ambient temperatures. This will greatly improve germination success, just make sure it is protected from the elements.

When selecting vegetable seeds to grow outside, look for heirloom varieties that are adapted to your region and buy seeds packaged for the current growing season. We’ve always had success planting cold-weather crops like lettuce, carrots, chard, and spinach early in the growing season. Flower seeds such as clarkia, columbine, California poppies, sweet peas, sunflowers, nasturtiums and others will do better if they are sowed directly in the ground.

Note: For extra protection, you can turn your cold frame into a hot box by adding rotting manure or a layer of leaves or straw seasoned with microbe-rich compost beneath your soil layer. The heat generated by the decaying organic material will help hold plants over winter as well as give soil temperatures a boost in time for spring germination.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Larry –

The pH of your soil is a measure of acidity or alkalinity. Soil pH is extremely important and directly affects nutrient availability. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 as neutral. Numbers less than 7 indicate acidity while numbers greater than 7 indicate alkalinity.

To reduce soil pH, or correct alkaline soil, a source of acid is needed. Elemental sulfur is most commonly used by organic gardeners. However, sulfur requires some time before it is converted to sulfuric acid with the aid of soil bacteria. This conversion rate is dependent on the particle size of the sulfur, the amount of soil moisture, soil temperature and the presence of the bacteria. As a result, it can take several months to decrease the pH value.

To answer your question, I do not think it really matters how many times per year you apply elemental sulfur. However, lowering soil pH too much below the optimum range can be more harmful for your plants than the alkaline soil you already have. Use caution when adjusting pH and do not attempt to change it by more than 1 pH unit per year.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

Well, you’ve got me all worked up now! The claim that some ladybugs are pre-conditioned to stay at home is complete nonsense and purely a marketing ploy. The fact is, ALL ladybugs available for sale are gathered, screened to remove debris, and then “walked” to separate the healthy ones from the sick and/ or infected ones. This process is done prior to shipment and then repeated several times throughout the growing season.

One of the biggest factor affecting how well your ladybugs work is the time of year that they are purchased. Twice a year (early December and late May) ladybugs migrate from the San Joaquin Valley to the foothills of the Sierra mountains. It is here where they are gathered, processed and then stored in climate controlled refrigerators until sold. The longer ladybugs are stored the weaker they become and the less efficient they are as pest killers.

Ladybugs will also need a food source once released. If you introduce ladybugs thinking you’ll prevent aphids from entering your garden, you could be in for disappointment. Ladybugs who find nothing to feed on will likely abandon a clean garden in search of food.

To keep your ladybugs around and to establish breeding colonies, it’s also important to supply them with certain blooming herbs and flowers to provide the nectar they need for reproduction. Mint, yarrow, angelica, dill and clover are good choices but almost any shallow blossomed plant (including dandelions) will work.

Note: Planet Natural has been shipping ladybugs for over 25 years. We guarantees live, timely delivery of our beneficial insects.

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Alan –

Timing is often the trickiest part of releasing beneficial insects. While some predatory insects are able to survive periods without food, most need to eat constantly. Praying mantis can be released as long as some food is available. Keep in mind, the larger the population, the more effective the pest control.

Praying Mantis egg cases can take 6-8 weeks of warm temperatures, 65-75 degrees daytime, no lower than 45 degrees at night, to hatch. If immediate release is inconvenient you can keep the egg case(s) in the refrigerator for up to one week, but they must be in a ventilated container. DO NOT FREEZE.

To release, simply tie the praying mantis egg case(s) to twigs or branches about three feet above the ground. Birds and rodents will feed on them, so placing them in a container with holes large enough for the mantis to escape — 1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter — will provide protection. One case will yield approximately 50-200 nymphs.

To speed up the hatch, we recommend placing egg cases — still in the bag — on top of a refrigerator, or some place that is consistently warm, but not hot. Do not place them on a windowsill as temperatures fluctuate too much.

Note: The newly hatched insects squeeze through the egg sac, leaving it intact and disperse quickly without leaving behind a clue that hatching has occurred. It takes as much as five months for mantises to reach full size.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Donna –

Your new framed fabric planter is a commercial quality raised bed that can be used inside or outside. Made from a breathable, porous material, these reusable gardens last for years and provide superior drainage and aeration for ALL plants. Easy to use, just place the container wherever you want and fill it with your favorite potting mix.

The Dirt Pot Box can be located on your lawn, patio, or even basement! However, because the fabric is porous and drains freely, we recommend placing the garden bed inside a standard hydroponic tray when using it inside or on a hard surface. This will prevent staining from runoff and make clean up a snap.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Wayne –

Soil boosting rock dusts are chock-full of minerals and plant nutrients. Use them to enhance the supply of trace elements and support the biological processes required for sustainable and optimal plant growth. According to research and customer reports, you will notice larger, and better tasting yields — with evidence of improved nutritional benefits.

Directions for Use:
Add 1-2 cups per gallon of potting mix or broadcast 50 lbs per 1000 sq ft of garden area. When planting tomatoes (or other flowering crops), add 1 cup per hole and thoroughly mix with existing soil. During the growing season, you can side-dress crop rows or around the drip line of trees and shrubs.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Bobby –

Mix 1/2 – 2 tsp per quart of warm water (1 oz per gallon) with a couple drops of mild dish soap as an emulsifier. Shake well and spray the diluted solution generously on all leaf surfaces to keep leaves and plants healthy. All ingredients are 100% non-toxic and the best available.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Wendy –

Pantry moths are considered to be the most troublesome pest infesting stored products in the United States. They attack all cereal products, whole grains, dried fruits, pet foods, bird seed, dried milk and nuts. Below is our 11 step treatment program for getting rid of pantry moths naturally and save BIG money doing it yourself!

1. Inspect foods for possible infestation before you purchase. Look for webbing and small holes in the packaging.

2. Store susceptible food products in tightly sealed containers.

3. Infested food items can be thrown away or salvaged by freezing for one week.

4. Clean up food spills promptly, paying close attention to cracks and crevices.

5. Vacuum problem areas in the kitchen. Empty after use to prevent reinfestation.

6. The Pantry Pest Trap uses a powerful attractant to detect adult moths. Place near the problem area, generally where dried foodstuffs are stored.

7. Release trichogramma wasps to attack and destroy pest eggs. These tiny beneficial insects are very effective because they prevent the pest from reaching the destructive larval stage.

8. Apply organic diatomaceous earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!

9. Bt-kurstaki (Bt-k) is a highly selective biological pesticide used to manage the larval stage of this pest. Approved for organic use, it should be applied every 7- to 10-days, as needed.

10. Made from citrus peel extract, Orange Guard kills and repels many bugs on contact. Spray in kitchens, pantries and under cabinets and appliances — anywhere insects hide! Safe for use around food, people and pets.

11. Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Carol –

In my opinion, AllDown Organic Weed Killer is your #1 weapon in the War on Weeds. Made with strong vinegar (20%) and citric acid (14%) it’s the product to reach for when you’re dealing with troublesome weeds in landscaped areas. Best of all, it’s OMRI Listed for use in organic production so you won’t damage yourself, or your pets, while using it.

Use 7.5 to 15 oz of prepared solution to treat 100 sq ft. For larger annuals and burn-down of perennial weeds, higher application rates may be required. Overspray or drift will injure or kill contacted vegetation.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mary –

When the winter blahs set in and you’re dreaming of fresh vegetables from your summer garden, consider growing them indoors. Almost anything can be grown indoors — as long as it eventually doesn’t get too big. However, do consider growing plants with similar light, humidity and watering needs together.

Some of our favorite choices for an indoor vegetable garden include:

1. Peppers
2. Tomatoes (cherry varieties are best)
3. Salad Greens (arugula, spinach, lettuce)
4. Kale
5. Chard
6. Carrots
7. Radishes
8. Beans
9. Peas
10. Potatoes

Please visit our indoor gardening guides for help selecting containers, growing media, indoor grow lights and more. Raising fresh veggies inside a small corner of your home can add year-round flavors, scents, even profits to your life.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Kyndal –

We really do recommend that you order and release beneficial insects as needed. If multiple ship dates are desired, please indicate at Checkout or give us a call at 1-888-349-0605.

Unfortunately, beneficial insects do not store well. If an immediate release is not possible, we recommend keeping them in your refrigerator for no more than 3-5 days. Do NOT freeze. Keep in mind, that the longer they are stored the higher the mortality will be. Most refrigerators are frost free and will “dry out” the insects. To minimize loss during refrigeration you can keep them in the crisper/ humidity drawer, or place an apple wedge inside the box, with the contents, that they arrive in.

Proper Timing
Timing is often the trickiest part of releasing beneficials. If you’re releasing parasitic wasps, a host or hosts must be available, otherwise they will perish. When using a parasite that targets a pest’s specific life-cycle stage, you have to be sure to release the parasite when the pest is in that stage. For example, releasing trichogramma wasps after all the eggs have hatched into caterpillars will be of absolutely no help since trichogramma only parasitizes the eggs, not the caterpillars.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Chantel –

Lacewing larvae vigorously attack their prey, injecting a paralyzing venom then drawing out the body fluids of the victim. Besides aphids, they feed on citrus mealybugs, cottony cushion scale, spider mites, thrips, young caterpillars, insect eggs, etc. Larvae will devour up to 200 pest insects per week and are known to be cannibalistic if no other food source is available. Lacewing are shipped as eggs packaged in a carrier of rice hulls. Use 1,000 eggs per 2,500 square feet (50 x 50 foot area), as close as possible to pest infested areas.

Newly hatched lacewing larvae are about 1/8″ long, gray-green in color, and live on the undersides of plant leaves. Because they are so difficult to find after they hatch, we recommend placing the container/ vial on top of your refrigerator, or some place consistently warm, to speed their hatch. Check them every day and as soon as you see movement release them. Keep in mind, that lacewing larvae are very cannibalistic, so you do not want to wait after you see movement.

RELEASE INSTRUCTIONS

1.) Apply when a few tiny (1/32nd of an inch) larvae are seen moving about the container.
2.) Gently turn and shake the container to mix the contents.
3.) Spread the material evenly over the pest infested area.
4.) A second release, two weeks later, may be necessary.

Tip: Ants feed on the honeydew that sucking insects (aphids, mealybugs, thrips) produce and will vigorously protect these pests from their natural enemies. If possible, control ants prior to release.

Note: Most growers experienced with using beneficial insects prefer lacewing to ladybugs as they tend to stick around longer — they do not fly off!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Cindy –

Diatomaceous Earth is made from the fossilized remains of tiny freshwater algae-like creatures called diatoms. A mild abrasive, it kills insects pests, including aphids, within 48 hours of contact. It’s not a poison, but works by scoring an insect’s hide as it crawls over the powder. Unfortunately, this would include any soft-bodied lacewing larvae that may crawl through it.

To kill aphids, but not beneficial insects, we recommend providing stable, continuous suppression of pests by promoting their natural enemies. This long term approach is also the least toxic method of controlling insects.

1. Do a little reading on common insect pests of the plants you want to grow. Field scout and monitor with traps to identify pests. Learn the pest’s life cycle so that treatment can be chosen and timed to be most effective.

2. Establish a level of acceptable damage.

3. Monitor the pest situation regularly. Only when monitoring has indicated that the pest will cause unacceptable damage should treatment be considered.

4. If pest populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived organic pesticide (Safer® Soap is a favorite!) to establish control while reducing damage to pest predators and the environment. Spot spray problem areas, especially new growth, and stay vigilant. Eventually your lacewing population will gain the upper hand.

Hope it helps!

[Author]

Posts