[Eric Vinje]

Hi Ranae –

Crop pollinators like bees have been decimated in recent years, but home gardeners are helping their populations stabilize. Below we offer several tips to improve crop pollination at home.

1.) Plant nectar-rich flowers that attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators to your garden. We offer several wildflower mixes that are specifically designed for this purpose.

2.) Learn how to hand pollinate plants in the vegetable garden.

3.) Attach Honey Bee Attractant Lures to any tree or plant in your garden. Hang one lure per 200 square feet at the start of bloom. Replace lures every 2-3 weeks. Place out of reach of children and pets.

4.) Apply Bee Scent in the early morning when pollinators are active. Plan your first treatment at early bloom (5 to 30%). A second application 5 to 8 days later (70-100% bloom) is recommended. Studies show a 59% increase in fruit set while using this pheromone-based liquid formulation.

5.) Provide water. If you have a stream or small pond in the area you’re in good shape. If not, a birdbath or shallow pan can hold several days’ worth of water. Place small rocks in the water to give your pollinators a place to rest.

6.) Purchase Bumble Bee Hives. Some hives, the Excel and Start-Up, are for indoor use only. Our QUAD unit, four hives in one box, is for outdoor use. One QUAD hive will pollinate two acres. Please check back for pricing.

7.) Stop using toxic pesticides. As organic gardeners, we’re all doing something to save the pollinators. (Even when applying OMRI listed pesticides, always consider the pollinators it might affect.)

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Dave –

Nice question, We just wrote an entire page on how to identify Black Knot and what causes it. This common fungal disease of plum, cherry, apricot and chokecherry trees is easily identified with its hard, uneven, black galls that seem to enwrap twigs and branches. The trick to controlling the fungus is identifying the infection well-before the disease becomes firmly established. Here’s our 7 steps to prevent and get rid of Black Knot on trees.

1.) Inspect your trees carefully for first signs of the disease. This is best done in winter, when leaves are absent, but can be done throughout the growing season.

2.) Remove any knots that are found. Cut well-past the galls, four to eight inches, to ensure all the infection and its spores are removed.

3.) Dispose of infected stems and branches.

4.) Take care not to spread the spores. Clean pruning tools as you use them with a solution of 1/2 cup bleach to a gallon of water.

5.) Copper sprays offered on this website offer significant protection against black knot, but are unlikely to be effective if pruning and sanitation are ignored.

6.) Neem oil can help inhibit the fungus. However, it will not kill fungal spores that are already present.

7.) Remove wild cherry and plum trees from around your property. They harbor the disease and release spores that are easily carried to your susceptible nursery trees.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Teresa –

I feel comfortable recommending all of the steps listed below for use in your house, but keep in mind Bora-Care must be applied to untreated wood surfaces. It will not work on painted or stained wood. Also, botanical insecticides — derived from plants which have insecticidal properties — should be your last line of defense for dealing with pests indoors. These natural pesticides have shorter half-lives and less toxicity than commercial chemical sprays, but they’re still strong and should only be used after other least-toxic options have been tried. I you need to use a botanical spray indoors, I suggest applying Don’t Bug Me to cracks and crevices which will minimize exposure to you, your children and your pets.

Homeowners can get rid of termites naturally by following these NINE simple techniques:

1.) Eliminate wood contact with the ground. Ideally, wood should be at least 8 inches above the soil. Pull soil or mulch back from the foundation and support steps or posts on a concrete base.

2.) Prevent moisture from accumulating near the foundation. Termites are attracted to moisture and are more likely to enter a structure if the soil next to the foundation is consistently moist. Install, fix or relocate downspouts, drains and gutters. Repair leaky faucets.

3.) Never store firewood, lumber or other wood debris against the foundation. When stacked against the foundation they offer a hidden path of entry into the structure.

4.) Use decorative wood chips and mulch sparingly, especially if you have other conditions conducive to termite problems.

5.) Apply Bora-Care directly to untreated wood surfaces. Formulated with a concern for the environment, Bora-Care is a borate based insecticide and fungicide that is used for the interior and exterior control of wood-boring insects. Its patented formula penetrates deep into the wood providing long lasting protection.

6.) Dust Boric Acid lightly into cracks, crevices, wall voids and other insect hiding places. This fine powder clings to the legs, antennae and bodies of insects and acts as a stomach poison when consumed during grooming.

7.) Spray Orange Guard, made from citrus peel extract, to kill on contact. Approved for organic use, Orange Guard is a broad spectrum insect killer that’s safe to use indoors and out. Repeat applications may be necessary.

8.) Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!

9.) Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.

Go get `em!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Laura –

The Biokleen Laundry Liquid offered by Planet Natural combines the natural cleaning power of plant-based surfactants with extracts of citrus and grapefruit seed for a clean that won’t let you or your clothes down. Rinses clean and is gentle enough for delicate fabrics and your loved ones. It is made without enzymes (non-bio) and does not contain phosphate, chlorine, ammonia or petroleum solvents.

Benefits:
• Truly 3X Concentrated = 128 HE Loads/64 standard Loads
• Citrus and Grapefruit Seed extracts clean tough stains and odors
• Leaves no residue or harsh scent
• No artificial fragrance, colors or preservatives
• Made in the USA

Ingredients: Water (filtered), Laureth 7 (plant based surfactant), Cocamidopropyl Betaine (plant based surfactant), Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (plant based surfactant), Lauramine Oxide (plant based surfactant), Glycerin (vegetable), Sodium Chloride, Sodium Carboxymethyl Inulin (plant based chelant), Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract, C10-16 Alcohols (plant based)

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Steve –

Pesticide-free lawns give you the peace-of-mind that comes from providing your family a healthy place for outdoor play and gathering. We want to make our lawns and landscapes — the places where our children play and our pets roam — as safe as possible which is why, at Planet Natural, we only offer organic and chemical free lawn fertilizers. Not only do they improve soil structure, they encourage beneficial soil microbes that attack pests and diseases. Used in combination with good maintenance practices — including aeration and proper mowing — they will make your lawn less labor and water intensive.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Stef –

The soil in raised beds is usually superior to that in row gardens in part because it never gets stepped on and therefore does not get compacted. Beyond that, filling and maintaining beds usually becomes an opportunity to get high-quality soil and to fine-tune the mix of fertilizer and amendments.

If you’re not sure about the quality of your starter soil, or if you just want to add to what you are already using, mix in organic compost — no sludge or biosolids — and plenty of it. Compost will make your soil heavier and help retain moisture, which is a good thing since raised beds dry out faster than the surrounding earth. You can also add dry fertilizers such as blood meal for nitrogen, bone meal for phosphorus, and greensand for potassium. These slow-release nutrients will break down over time and feed your gardens all season long.

Since your beds will settle with time, you may need to add more soil/ compost later, but do not pile it too high and gently grade the surface into a slight mound, with the dirt sloping away from the center of the planter. The excellent soil in most raised beds makes high yields possible, but even the best soil will need rejuvenating over time.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

SM-90 is prepared from natural plant oils, like coriander (1.0%) and canola (94%). This multipurpose wetting agent also includes triethanolamine (5.0%), which can be found in up to 40% of beauty and personal care items currently on the market. According to the manufacturer, Nutrilife Plant Products, SM-90 is biodegradable and non-toxic to humans, animals and plants. It can be applied as a foliar spray or directly in reservoirs with nutrient solutions.

The only precautions listed on the product label are:

Avoid contact with eyes, skin, open cuts or sores. Keep out of reach of children. Wash hands after use. For general cleanup, use strong detergent or pine-oil cleaner.

There is NO information about protective clothing or masks on the container. I have included the directions for use below:

HYDROPONIC SYSTEMS
Apply 2-3 ml of SM-90 to each gallon of nutrient solution on a weekly basis or whenever solutions are replaced.

FOLIAR SPRAYS
Dilute 1 part SM-90 with 5 parts water to prepare a Foliar Spray. May be repeated every 3 days for up to 3 spray applications.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Larry –

Beneficial nematodes are living organisms, so proper shipping and storage are of utmost importance to ensure the nematodes are alive and well and ready to go to work when you receive them. The shelf life of beneficial nematodes varies depending on the formulation in which they are sold. Nematodes in a solid formulation (such as Scanmask®) have a longer shelf life compared to those in a powder like sprayable formulation.

The refrigerated shelf life of Scanmask® is one year, so you would be able to apply them to your potted plants now and to your raised bed gardens 2-4 months from now. For best results, mix contents of the Scanmask container with potting soil, vermiculite or peat moss. Water area to be treated before and after application.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Cecelia –

When releasing predatory insects, like the mealybug destroyer (Cryptolaemus montrouzieri), you must make releases when the target pest is present but before their numbers get too large to achieve effective control. For best results, begin releases when pest populations are low to medium. If pest levels are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide (insecticidal soap, natural insecticide) to establish control, then release beneficials to maintain control.

HOW TO RELEASE:
• Adult beetles are shipped in vials mixed with paper strips to provide protection.
• Water the area to be protected and gently shake the contents evenly over, or near, the pest problem.
• Do NOT release during the sunny part of the day, but rather wait until evening or early morning.
• Repeat as necessary, usually once or twice per year.

While “Crypts” also feed on aphids and soft scale, when mealybugs are not present, they will most likely move out of the area in search of food. Multiple releases will allow the predator population to grow. The larger the population, the more effective the pest control.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

Just a follow up on the Clean Roots Plant Platforms… Planet Natural now offers them online here:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/clean-roots-platforms/.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mike –

I have asked our shipping department to contact you with freight charges and a total cost for the order listed above. However, by far the best pricing on potting soils, bagged compost and amendments is by the pallet. Most of our pallets contain 50-70 bags and we offer wholesale pricing on ALL bulk purchases. Please call 1-888-349-0605, or email info@planetnatural.com for a quote.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Ralph –

These days, most newspaper inks are soy-based and no longer contain lead, a good thing for the environment (though the soy used in inks is likely from GMO sources). But some inks may still contain petro-chemicals or pigments if they include color as most papers do. Also newsprint may hold some chlorine from the bleaching process.

Newspaper is bleached less than most commercial office papers but may still contain some chlorine. This is a good reason not to compost office paper, mail or magazines. Slick papers of the sort used by magazines are also treated with petro-chemicals, so that they won’t yellow and break down as quickly as newsprint.

If you do use newsprint, be sure it’s shredded. If not, it may still be in you pile a year later, impeding good circulation of air and moisture. However, when in doubt — keep it out.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Russel –

Using Volcanic Basalt Rock Dust as an amendment or potting soil additive will help restore fertility and increase yields. Chock-full of minerals and nutrients, this slow-release soil booster is used to enhance the supply of trace elements and helps support the biological processes required for sustainable and optimal plant growth. Best of all, it’s approved for use in organic crop production.

I have contacted the supplier of this natural mineral product and asked for a complete chemical analysis. I will post their response as soon as it is available.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Sue –

When using Age Old Soluble Mycorrhizae in an EZ-Flo injector system you will want to first create a concentrated stock solution from which to draw the product out for further dilution. Here is a rate that would work well.

Add 50 grams (approximately 6 tablespoons) per gallon of water in the EZflo tank and mix until dissolved. This concentrated solution can be pulled through the system at either the 1 tsp or 1 tbsp rate. At the 50 gram per gallon concentrated rate it will take around 10 lbs of Soluble Mycorrhizae per 100 gallons of water. Since this is a concentrated solution that is further diluted, each gallon will stretch pretty far.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

A sort of super compost, worm castings are rich in nutrients and loaded with the microorganisms that create and maintain healthy soil. The beneficial microbes aid plant growth, help fight off disease and nourish your plants with readily absorbed nutrients that keep them healthy and productive. Clemson University Extension lists the following benefits of worm castings.

• provides nutrients to the soil
• improves the aeration and internal drainage of heavy clay soils
• provides numerous beneficial bacteria
• improves the soil structure’
• increases the soil’s ability to hold nutrients in a plant-available form
• increases the water holding ability of sandy soils

Because vermicompost is usually made in modest quantities, it is often used as a top or side dressing for potted plants. Mixed with regular compost it adds a boost to garden soil. Blended with potting soil, it invigorates plants growing in containers, inside or out. Castings contain 4% to 5% nitrogen in a slow release form and should not burn plants when properly used.

Gardens: Apply 5-10 pounds per 100 square feet and work into the soil.

Top Dressing: Simply spread a layer (about 1/2 inch deep) around your favorite plants. Mulch and water thoroughly.

Potting Mix: Add one part vermicompost with two parts compost, and 3/4 part vermiculite, perlite or coconut coir. Mix 1 Tbsp all-purpose fertilizer per gallon of soil.

Shrubs & Trees: In late spring, mulch around plants with a 1-4 inch thick layer.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Charles –

Home gardeners are discovering that fresh asparagus is far superior to anything they can purchase in stores. Best of all, starting an asparagus patch is easy! Here are some tips and techniques to follow:

QUICK GUIDE
• Plant in well-drained, sandy soil to avoid rot
• Wait 2-3 years after planting to harvest first crop
• Give plenty of space, since plants will grow 4-6 feet tall
• For best production, mulch well throughout the year
• Perennial that grows best in hardiness zones 4-8
• Common pests and diseases are aphids, beetles and rust

Asparagus requires a good all-purpose organic fertilizer to thrive. For this, we strongly recommend adding Dr. Earth Premium Gold All Purpose Fertilizer in the spring. This slow-release plant food is easy to broadcast and well suited for vegetables, flowers, potted plants and all types of shrubs and trees. Use 1-1/3 cups for every 10 sq ft of growing area, or 6 cups for every 50 ft of planting row. Gently work into the soil and water well.

In the fall, we recommend adding a nice amount of rock phosphate to your beds. This natural source of phosphorus and calcium provides both short and long term benefits and will improve asparagus production and vigor the following season. Broadcast 50 lbs per 1,000 square feet or side dress around existing plants. Mix thoroughly for best results.

Adding a 2-4 inch layer of compost as a mulch (top-dressing) will help suppress weeds and replenish your soil.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Marjie –

Scale insects are common on ​many ​houseplants and often build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage.The good news is, that most adult scales live and feed under their protective armor covering and do NOT move about the plant. However, care must be taken that ​their ​​mobile nymphs, sometimes called crawlers, do not migrate out from under this covering and attack other ​parts of the ​same plant ​or even nearby plants.

To prevent and treat many insect pests, including scales, on indoor plants we strongly recommend neem oil.​ ​Cold-pressed from the fruits, seeds and bark of an evergreen tree (Azadiracta indica) native to India, neem oil​ ​is 100% natural and safe to use. It will not persist in the environment and is ​non-toxic to people, pets and many beneficial insects.

Easy to use, just mix 1/2 – 2 tsp per quart of warm water with a couple drops of mild dishwashing soap (used as a surfactant) and spray the diluted solution generously over all leaf surfaces, including the undersides. Apply every 2-4 days for a two week period. This schedule will help break the life-cycle of many indoor plant pests commonly found on houseplants. Do NOT apply in direct sunlight or under plant grow lights.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jenn –

While I would keep your dogs and cats away from our concentrated or liquid plant nutrients, I feel comfortable saying that all of our organic fertilizers — we offer hundreds of them — are safe for pets, especially when diluted and applied as directed. Many of these natural plant foods are derived from a single ingredient (such as fish, seaweed, manure, bone meal, blood meal or guano), or a well-balanced blend of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus plus micronutrients. They do NOT contain toxins or heavy metals and release their nutrients slowly giving your plants long-lasting, healthy results.

I have included several different types of organic fertilizers below. All are excellent for use indoors or out and will actually improve your soil over the long run.

Bird and animal manures: Good nutrient source and chock-full of microorganisms. Should be well-aged or composted before applying directly to the garden.

Blood meal: Slow release source of nitrogen plus trace minerals. Apply just before planting and use sparingly.

Fish meal/ emulsion: Source of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements. Releases quickly.

Greensand: Rich in potassium and numerous micronutrients. Can be used to loosen clay soils. Apply 5-10 lbs per 100 square feet.

Shellfish meal: Strong source of calcium (23%), nitrogen, phosphorus and micronutrients. May also be used to inhibit root-knot nematodes.

Rock phosphate: Great for flowering plants and provides a 10 year phosphate reserve.

Whatever fertilizer you purchase, follow the application instructions including how much to apply, when and where.

I hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Terry –

As you probably know, in an organic lawn it is unrealistic to expect that you will not have any weeds at all, but it is possible to keep them under control. Here’s a few tips that we recommend:

• Plant a diverse crop of turf grasses. If a situation comes up that one or two cultivars cannot tolerate, weeds will begin to overrun the lawn. However, with a more varied array of grasses there is likely to be a species or two that can overcome any adverse conditions.

• Try the age-old practice of hand weeding. It can be time consuming, but with the right tool it’s not too bad. Then, plant grass seeds in the holes left by the removed weeds.

• Lawns that are cut high will overshadow many weeds.

• Corn gluten meal can be applied as a pre-emergent weed killer. It has been shown to inhibit the growth of dandelions, crabgrass and many other annual weeds.

• Spot treat weeds in lawns with organic herbicides. The best one we’ve found is called Alldown. It contains 20% acetic acid, plus citric acid to completely eliminate weeds and undesirable vegetation. Best of all, it’s approved for organic use.

Note: Be sure any weed killer you choose to use in your lawn is safe for grass. Many are indiscriminate and will kill grass as well as broad-leafed plants. If so, make sure to spot-treat weeds. Fitting a plastic tube cut from a piece of pipe or a thin plastic bottle over the nozzle of your herbicide sprayer will help focus it on your intended target.

Please also take a look at our Organic Lawn Care page (scroll down for weeds). Here, we offer a lengthy discussion on how to ditch the chemicals and repair your lawn using proven, organic techniques.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Dan –

Brushable Tangle-Trap is easily applied with a paintbrush and is ideally suited for contoured trap surfaces — it should work great for collecting ground insects. To remove Tanglefoot Sticky Coating from tools use mineral spirits. Remove from hands or skin with baby oil or citrus cleaners then wash with soap and water.

I do not know how these products will affect chitin on the exoskeleton of insects.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi David –

Actinovate Fungicide contains a high concentration of a patented beneficial microorganism. When applied, the Actinovate microbe grows on the plant’s roots and leaves, living off the plant’s by-products while at the same time attacking harmful disease causing pathogens. This natural product effectively suppresses and controls a wide range of foliar and root diseases.

How to Apply

Lawns:
Apply immediately to problem areas and re-apply if needed every 2-3 weeks with a hose-end sprayer, pump-up sprayer or watering can. Water thoroughly after application.

Potted Plants:
Dissolve one teaspoon per 2 gallons of water to create solution. Apply solution to pot at base of plant, or at soil level in the garden around the plant until soil is completely saturated.

Foliar:
Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water to create solution. Spray directly on leaves, stems, and new shoots to runoff providing complete coverage of entire plant. For best results, apply product prior to disease development or at the first sign of infection.

​Hydroponics:
Dissolve directly into nutrient water tank. Use ½ – 1 teaspoon per gallon (6–12 oz per 100 gallons). Reapply each time nutrient water is changed. May also be applied to each plant’s root system individually. To do this, dissolve ½ – 1 teaspoon into a gallon of water to create solution. Apply solution as a watering directly to the plants’ base so as to water in to the roots. Reapply every 2–6 weeks.​

We do NOT recommend using this product as a dry amendment in soil.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

The tiny trichogramma wasp is an efficient destroyer of the eggs of more than 200 species of moths and butterflies which are leaf eaters in the larval stage. It is a particularly effective biological control because it kills its host before damage can occur.

Shipped as pupae in host eggs, glued to one inch by one inch paper squares, Trichogramma arrive ready to hatch out as adult wasps. During her 9-11 day life, the female wasp will seek out and destroy about 100 pest eggs by laying an egg inside of it. As the tiny parasites develop inside they consume the contents. Depending upon temperatures a new adult will emerge in about a week.

Trichogramma are sold as squares (1 square = 5000 parasites, minimum order 3 squares) or cards, which are made up of 30 squares. Release 5,000 (1 square) per 5,000 square feet weekly for 3 to 6 consecutive weeks. Trichogramma can be stored after receipt for 2-5 days, between 47 – 50 F. The longer they are stored, the higher the mortality rate will be. DO NOT FREEZE.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Deborah –

Various fungal diseases and blights attack squash foliage. From your description, I have come up with a couple possible plant problems and listed symptoms and treatments for each.

Fusarium Crown and Foot Rot

Symptoms:
• Wilting of leaves
• Plant dies within a few days
• Dead tissue of the crown and upper taproot
• Infected plants break off below the soil line

Treatment:
• Purchase pathogen free seed
• Rotate crops on a 3 to 4-year rotation
• Don’t plant melons following a barley crop
• If the disease persists, it is best to remove infected plant debris and solarize the soil before planting again

Bacterial Wilt

Symptoms:
• Severe wilting, especially during the heat of the day
• Symptoms appear at all stages of plant development
• Leaves may yellow
• Dead tissue may appear around leaf margins
• Plants die within two weeks

Treatment:
• There is no control for bacterial wilt once plants become infected
• Plant resistant varieties when available
• Use an organic insecticide to control cucumber beetles, which are known to spread the disease.

Various fungus and blights attack squash plants. In most cases, a dilute solution of copper spray will help control the problem. However, we do not offer a product that will work on the two conditions mentioned above.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Adrienne –

The ZZ plant, or Zamioculcas zamiifolia, is a perfect house plant for low-light situations. This drought-tolerant plant belongs to the araceae family, a family of plants with many of them being toxic.

The ZZ plant produces calcium oxalates, the same substance that kidney stones are made of, which isn’t necessarily considered “poisonous”, but the sharp edges of the crystals can cause irritation to skin or internal tissues, so keeping pets and children away from this one is preferred. During the 2010’s, speculations about the level of toxicity may have been exaggerated – leading people to wear gloves when handling this plant. While this practice may be excessive, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to handle with care, and be sure to wash your hands after dealing with this plant, especially if any juices or sap may touch exposed skin.

As for pets and children, touching this plant may not do any harm, but ingesting or getting sap on exposed skin could lead to irritations.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi John –

Gnat Nix is placed on top of the soil creating a physical barrier that fungus gnats cannot penetrate. Beneficial Nematodes live in the soil and will attack most pest larvae found there. The two products are very compatible when used together and will reduce your fungus gnat problems considerably. Other things to consider…

Gnatnix is made from 100% recycled glass. It is non-toxic and long-lasting. For control of fungus gnats, add a 1/2-3/4 inch layer on top of your growing media — make sure to cover the entire soil surface. This physical control will limit larvae mobility and reduces the appeal for females to lay eggs on the surface. One single application will effectively reduce plant damage.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Charles –

Good question… No, beneficial nematodes are insect pathogenic only and are not a control for hookworms or other parasitic worms in livestock.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Emily –

When food is labeled organic, it simply means that it was grown without using synthetic or chemical fertilizers and insecticides. Instead, organic growers stick to fertilizers made from animal or vegetable by-products and get creative when dealing with pest problems — often utilizing beneficial insects or companion plants that deter the unwelcome visitors.

Not only does organic growing cause less harm than conventional-type food production, it actually has many benefits (see Organic Vegetables vs. Conventional).

• By eating organic food, you ingest fewer chemicals.
• Organically grown food helps defend against cancer with its higher essential vitamins and nutrients.
• Most organic gardeners use compost, which reduces the amount of waste going to landfills.
• Organic gardens feed the soil rather than depletes it.

Making the switch to organic food is as much an act of will power as it is work. But the rewards — feeding you or your family fruits and vegetables untainted by herbicides, fertilizers and the residues of chemical pesticides — are priceless.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi John –

I wasn’t sure how to answer your question so I asked the experts. Here’s their response:

Once the nematodes are in the soil they generally stay put pretty well. The customer may lose some nematodes but I think enough would stay in place to continue providing pest control.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mobeen –

Organic fertilizer differs from chemicals in that they feed your plants while building the soil. Soils with lots of organic material remain loose and airy, hold more moisture, and nutrients, foster growth of soil organisms, and promote healthier plant root development. They are available in liquid and dry (granular) form, either will work well for landscape plants and shrubs.

Dry fertilizers can be made from a single ingredient (such as greensand, blood meal or steamed bone meal) or a blend of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorous plus micronutrients. They release their nutrients slowly — a good watering gets them started — giving you long-lasting, healthy results. We carry a variety of organic formulas designed to encourage growth, blooms and bountiful harvests.

Liquid fertilizers go to work almost immediately and are the quick, effective way to nourish established plants in pots or in your gardens! They are especially beneficial during critical times in a plant’s life such as just after transplanting, during extreme temperatures or drought, or when the plant is blooming or setting fruit). We offer a large selection here. Foliar fertilizing — spraying the liquid solution on leaves — will also benefit plants throughout the growing season and can be applied every 2-4 weeks.

Fertilizer Numbers (N-P-K)

The world of fertilizers can be complex, but it all hinges on three letters: N, P and K. These are the three macronutrients that are essential for plant growth – nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Let’s take a tour of these elements and how they impact your garden.

Nitrogen (N) gets top billing because it’s responsible for keeping plants green, which is why fertilizers for grass tend to have a high N factor. Nitrogen also feeds new shoots and plant growth.

Phosphorus (P) builds healthy roots and promotes fruiting and flowering, so you’ll often see fertilizers for bulbs and blooms that are high in this nutrient. In nature, plants usually pick up phosphorus through decaying organic matter.

Potassium (K), which is also called potash, is key in the formation of chlorophyll and other plant compounds. It improves disease resistance and general plant health.

Other Tips

When choosing a fertilizer, remember that more isn’t better. Plants can only take in so much, so organic versions release lower amounts over time. Chemical fertilizers release an overload of nutrients, then wash right out of the soil.

Make sure your plants get the most out of any fertilizer by checking your soil pH first. Nutrients are most available if soil pH is in the sweet spot of 6.0 to 6.5.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

The best way to keep rats and raccoons out of your composting system is to reduce the conditions that attract them. Here are some suggestions:

• Limit table scraps, meat, fish and dairy products, and use mostly lawn and yard waste in your bins.

• Rodents do NOT like wet living environments. Water the area around your bins frequently and keep it moist.

• Keep your bins sealed to prevent access.

• Rodents do NOT like to be disturbed. If possible, discourage them by increasing the activity around your bins.

• Traps, repellents and baits — use caution around your dog — will help reduce pest numbers.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

If you purchased a batch of ladybugs from your local garden store and they all died shortly after releasing them, it is most likely due to one of two reasons:

1.) You have recently sprayed with a pesticide that remains on your plants. Keep in mind, that many synthetic pesticides breakdown slowly and can persist in the environment for days, or even weeks. If you must spray, select natural pesticides — insecticidal soap — that are short-lived in the environment, or specific to the target pest. For example, Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt-k) will control caterpillars, such as cabbage worms and gypsy moths without harming their natural enemies.

2.) You received a batch of ladybugs that have been stored for too long. Unlike most beneficial insects, live ladybugs are gathered twice per year (late winter/ early June) and stored in custom refrigerators prior to shipment. The longer they are stored the weaker they become and the higher the mortality rate will be. Ladybugs that have been kept for too long will often appear healthy during release, but die shortly after.

Note: Unlike most garden centers and box stores, we “walk” our ladybugs prior to shipment to ensure that only healthy beetles are shipped out, but some loss is still expected.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Ana –

If you are washing off the leaves and the shiny substance comes back it is most likely an insect pest. Is the shiny material sticky too? If so, I suggest looking for the following:

Spider Mites
Aphids
Thrips
Scale Insects

All of these insects are very small and may live on the undersides of leaves. They feed by sucking the juices and scraping at leaves and stems. As they feed, they secrete a sticky fluid known as honeydew. This shiny goo drips onto plants, attracting ants and promoting a black sooty mold growth on leaves.

Please take a closer look. If you still do not see any insects, could it be that the honeydew is dripping from an overhanging tree?

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Emily –

Applied systemically or as a foliar spray, Azamax is a highly effective botanical insecticide for use against spider mites, fungus gnats, thrips and many other airborne and soil borne pests. Best of all, this effective pest control product is OMRI Listed for use in organic crop production and will not harm earthworms or honeybees.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/azamax-azadirachtin/

DIRECTIONS FOR USE:
For the most effective control, apply when pests are expected to appear or as soon as possible after they appear and are in immature stages.

Hydroponics: Add 5 to 8 oz per 10 gallons of reservoir size. Agitate the mixture thoroughly until the product is thoroughly dispersed. Make 2-3 applications at 10-14 day intervals until the pest pressure has ended. With high insect pressure applications make applications every 5 to 7 days.

NOTE: I recommend cutting use at least 3 weeks prior to harvest as I have found that circulating Azamax in reservoirs can result in latent traces of azadirachtin. To sensitive pallets, this can be detected in finished fruits.

Foliar Application: Mix 1 to 2 oz. per gallon of water depending on pest levels. Spray at an interval of 7-10 days or as the situation warrants.

Soil Drench: Mix 1/2 to 1 oz. per gallon of water and apply every 10-14 days. With high insect pressure, make applications every 5-6 days.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Steven –

We’re big fans of Roots Organics soil and nutrients. Please see a link to their feeding schedule below.

https://www.planetnatural.com/wp-content/uploads/roots-feeding-schedule.pdf

Happy growing!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Monica –

AzaMax and Azatrol contain the active ingredient azadirachtin, which is extracted from the neem seed using patented technology. Both products are OMRI listed for use in organic production and are safe to use on vegetable crops.

Apply to any food or non-food crop up to and including the day of harvest. For leafminers and other difficult to control pests, apply at a maximum rate of 1.0 to 1.6 oz per gallon of water. Two to three (2-3) applications should be scheduled at 10-14 day intervals until the pest pressure has ended.

Azadirachtin may be used as a soil drench for effective control of soil-borne insect larvae, including soil-borne larvae of foliar pests. Time soil drench applications to coincide with the early stages of young larvae and nymphs.

Note: Soil drench applications will have a slower rate of activity because of soil absorption when compared to foliar applications.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Irene!

There are many different ways of clearing algae out of ponds and many products we offer that are safe and effective for aquatic life, domestic animals, and wildlife.

The top recommendation would be to use Microbe-Lit PL Pond Treatment which is a natural and beneficial mix of various bacteria. This product does everything from clarification to nitrogen/ammonia reduction to clearing out organic waste! Here is our page on the product that also includes more information: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/microbe-lift-pl/

Another way to clear out unwanted algae is to use a product called API PondCare Algaefix. It is an effective algaecide that will clear up your pond in no time and you can always use a second product to keep the algae away. Though it does not state anything pertaining to wildlife (such as frogs) on the bottle, I spoke with a representative earlier this morning and they did say that it was indeed safe if used as directed. Note: This is not a natural product, but very popular.

If you decide to use an algaecide, it would be best to use a product that prevents the algae from forming again. One of the great products that work for this purpose would be the Biodegradable Aquasphere Pro. These also work using beneficial bacteria as well as enzymes to reduce pond sludge, odors, and excess nutrients which can contribute to algae growth.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Joseph!

I’m sorry to hear about your plum tree problems! There are a few different things that can cause leaves to turn black, but by the sounds of it, you may have Fire Blight which is an aggressive bacterial infection. Characterized by reddening of the leaves (which turn black shortly after), it is something that is to be taken seriously as it can infect surrounding trees and kill them off with ease.

The most effective treatment for Fire Blight is to prune off affected branches about a foot down from where you see damage. Be sure you are sterilizing your equipment throughout the entire process so as to keep from spreading the bacteria to healthy growth. After pruning, apply a good product for bacteria/fungal infections, such as Actinovate Lawn & Garden.

Once you are confident you have rid the tree of infected branches, be sure to keep them away from other trees (or any other plants in the rose family) and cart them off to the dump or burn all of it so as to destroy the bacteria.

You can find more information on this disease on our Planet Natural Research Center. I will include a link to the section on Fire Blight and products for it down below!

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/plant-disease/fire-blight/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Alice –

Neem (Azadirachta indica) and Karanja (Pongamia pinnata) are rich in natural NPK and micronutrients. Both will build good soil structure and can be used during the whole lifecycle of your plants to grow stronger, more resilient crops. Use as a top-dressing around plants or work into the soil prior to planting. If using in potted plants, mix thoroughly into soil or soilless media at a rate of 1 cup per 5-gallons (1/2 to 1 lb per cubic yard).

What is the nutritional analysis for Neem and Karanja?
• Karanja Meal is 4.5-0.5-1.25 on the NPK scale
• Neem Cake is not registered as a fertilizer at this time, but a typical analysis is:
– Nitrogen (N) 2.0% to 5.0%
– Phosphorus (P) 0.5% to 1.0%
– Potassium (K)1.0% to 2.0%

Benefits:
• Improved strength, flavor, quality and product-life of crop
• Known to adversely affect soil-borne pests and disease fungi
• Will encourage beneficial organisms — earthworms love it!
• Includes phyto-chemicals which inhibit the growth of pathogenic soil microbes
• Completely biodegradable and leaves no residues

Note: Recent research has shown that these products, when used in conjunction with each other, are more effective than when used by themselves.

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

The bacterium that causes canker, Pseudomonas syringae, enters peach trees through injured bark or an existing wound, such as a pruning cut on a twig or branch. I’ve included a link to our page on bacterial canker treatment here https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/plant-disease/bacterial-canker/.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Andrew –

Potatoes, carrots and beets are a few of the vegetable crops damaged by wireworms. Here’s how to get rid of them using proven, organic techniques.

Thorough cultivation of the top 6- to 8-inches of soil makes conditions unfavorable to the egg laying adults and exposes all stages of the pest to weather and natural enemies.

Crop rotation is especially important to the organic vegetable grower because it can help reduce many pest problems that lead to the use of pesticides.

If possible, wait until the soil has warmed before planting tubers. Larvae prefer cool soils and dig deeper into the ground when temperatures rise.

Apply beneficial nematodes when planting to attack and destroy developing pests in the soil.

Birds can consume large amounts of larvae. Encourage them by hanging houses and feeders near your garden.

Soil drenches containing the botanical insecticide pyrethrin are somewhat effective, but should only be used as a last resort.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Robert –

To the best of my knowledge, these natural predators are NOT commercially available. I have included a link (scroll down) to one of our pages containing a list of insectary plants that will help attract specific beneficial insects to your garden.

https://www.planetnatural.com/good-bugs/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello!

Avocado trees can be easy to grow if you have it in the right conditions so, I wouldn’t worry too much about your tree if you don’t see any bad signs. I’ve got a couple simple pointers to offer you that will help prevent problems in the first place.

They need a lot of sunlight so, if you have a window that faces South that you can put it in, that would be best! If that’s not an option, you may need to look in to getting a grow light to make your tree happy and healthy.

Be sure it is in a pot that is twice the length of the roots so it can spread easily with well draining, lightly sandy soil.

​Fertilizing with a good fish emulsion fertilizer while it’s young will help it grow strong and make it easier for the plant to grow later on as it ages​​.

Other than that, you can always contact us if you see any yellowing/brown leaves, pests, or diseases on it and we’d be happy to help!

​Here are a couple websites you can check out with some basic care for avocado trees.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/avocado/indoor-avocado-plant-care.htm
​https://www.thespruce.com/grow-avocados-indoors-1902590
​https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/avocado/avocado-houseplant-care.htm

Happy gardening!​

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Debra!

I would suggest using a simple T5 light set up for your houseplants. We have a huge variety of different sizes of both bulbs and bays for them and they are very simple to use! However, if you are only trying to light a couple plants, we also offer a DaySpot lamp that is perfect for small spaces. I will include the links to these products so you can check them out and decide which suits your needs!

DaySpot Lamp: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/agrosun-dayspot/
4′ T5 Systems: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/t5-grow-light/
2′ T5 Systems: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/t5-fluorescent-grow-light/
Jump Start Single Tube T5 System: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/jump-start-light-system/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mariana –

Those white grubs in your strawberry plants are most likely the root-eating larvae (immature stage) of beetles or weevils. To control them using organic and natural methods consider the following:

In the early morning or late evening, shake beetles/ weevils from plants onto ground sheets and destroy.

Rototilling will kill the plump larvae in the soil.

Floating row cover (Harvest-Guard®) can be used as a physical barrier to prevent egg-laying adults from plants.

Spread beneficial nematodes on lgarden beds or mulch around plants to kill immature stages. These microscopic, worm-like parasites actively hunt, penetrate and destroy immature stages in the soil.

Surround WP (kaolin clay) forms a protective barrier film, which acts as a broad spectrum crop protectant for preventing damage from a large number of insect pests.

Azatrol EC contains azadirachtin, the key insecticidal ingredient found in neem oil. This concentrated spray is approved for organic use and offers multiple modes of action, making it virtually impossible for insect resistance to develop. Best of all, it’s non-toxic to honey bees and many other beneficial insects.

As a last resort, spot treat adults with botanical pesticides. Apply to all leaf surfaces and deep into the plant canopy where insects hide.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Steven –

We do not recommend storing trichogramma wasps for much longer than a few days. Keep in mind that the longer they are stored the higher the mortality rate will be.

How to Release:
• Shipped as pupae in host eggs, glued to one inch by one inch paper squares, trichogramma arrive ready to hatch out as adult wasps.
• Release when moths are first present and periodically thereafter.
• Use 5,000 parasites (1 square) per 5,000 square feet weekly, or every other week for 3 to 6 consecutive weeks.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Raja!

In regards to internal lighting, two 4-foot, 8 bulb T5 light fixtures would be perfect. The short side of the fixture would go along the 2.4 meter side of the room and will provide adequate lighting for all of your leafy greens. Another perk of using t5 systems is that you can use them at any angle and it is quick and easy to adjust the height as your plants grow.

When it comes to nutrients, we offer a couple different lines and it would be a matter of personal preference after looking in to each one. If you would like to do automatic dosing, there is a product called the Dosatron which dispenses nutrients after mixing. We do not stock this product normally, but it is something we can definitely special order it for you.

Happy gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi, Samantha,

The best strategy to get rid of winter moth on your trees is to spray Bonide All Seasons spray to the bark and branches in the winter – this will kill any of the eggs on the trees. Then come spring, applying a band of Tanglefoot Insect Barrier will prohibit adults from climbing up the trees to lay more eggs. Finally, once you notice the caterpillars or any munched leaves, spray your trees with either Monterey Garden Insect Spray or Monterey Bt to kill the caterpillars doing the damage.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Shirley,

If you are mixing your own cactus/succulent mix, I would recommend 3 parts potting soil, 2 parts sand, and 1 part perlite. Or check out our Black Gold Cactus Mix (link below).

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/cactus-mix/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Kelly –

All of our organic herbicides are non-selective and will work on any plant they touch, including most weeds, grass or broadleaf specimens. Unfortunately, there is not an organic Weed-B-Gone type product available on the market today.

We do offer Weed Prevention Plus, which is the closest thing available to an all-natural, organic weed and feed. Derived from corn gluten meal, bone meal and potassium sulfate, it prevents crabgrass, dandelions and many other common weed seeds from germinating in lawns. Perennial weeds, that have already germinated, will need to be spot-treated with an organic herbicide or hand pulled.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Claudia –

You can certainly set the greenhouse kit up and take it down, but people’s definition of easy is all over the map. In my opinion, you should leave it up all year and make sure that it is anchored well for wind/ storms.

I have attached a copy of the assembly manual so you can make your own determination.

http://palramapplications.com/product-category/greenhouses/

Hope it helps!

[Author]

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