[Eric Vinje]

Hi Steve –

The best product for tomato hornworms is Bacillus thuringiensis, var. kurstaki, or Bt-k for short. Bt-k is most effective when applied to caterpillars during their 1st and 2nd instars, when they are still small. It must be ingested by the insect, as it is a stomach toxin. Harmless to humans, animals and beneficial insects. Here’s a couple of links that should help.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/garden-pests/tomato-hornworm-control/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/garden-dust-dipel/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/monterey-bt-kurstaki-bt-k/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Eileen –

We’ve written a whole page on common lawn problems (https://www.planetnatural.com/organic-lawn-care-101/problems/) including a section on dogs and lawns (scroll down).

Please check the article out. In the meantime, here are some things you can do to mitigate the dog spot problem in your lawn:

• First, determine your tolerance levels. A few odd burn spots here or there may not matter to you, but may to someone else. Or maybe what was under control now isn’t (your dog just had puppies, for instance) and suddenly, your limits have been breached.

• Remove feces promptly. Pour water on areas where the dog(s) has urinated, to dilute the uric acid that causes the problem. This does help — but it assumes that you will be on hand to see when and where your dog pees, and that you’ll be scrambling after her, watering can at the ready.

• Try sprinkling urine spots with sawdust, then dampen the spot. The decomposition of organic matter requires nitrogen. Since sawdust doesn’t contain much, it will take it from the soil — which, in this case, has plenty of extra nitrogen.

• Other sources — several of them — recommend that you patch the burned areas. Remove and compost the dead grass, and replace it with discs of new sod. This would certainly do the job, but it’s a lot of work, it takes time for the new grass to root, and who has extra sod laying around? Worst, it doesn’t address the ongoing problem. So this idea is practical, really, only if you’ve inherited a lawn with urine spots, but not if you have a dog that’s still got the run of the yard.

• Build a dog run, or give the dog free rein in the back yard, but not in the front. This way, you can keep part of your yard pristine. The downside (for some) is that now your dog is confined; you aren’t sharing the space, but living in parallel yards.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

It sounds like more brown material and a little patience is needed! Afterall, it’s still cool in Minnesota so the process will take longer. But don’t fret… it will happen!

Something that can help speed the decomposition process and re-invigorate the microbial population would be Bokashi or Compost starter. Both will speed the breakdown of your kitchen scraps, as well as increase your microbial population. An actively decomposing microbial population is what creates heat in a compost pile. The more microbes you can add, the better.

If possible, I’d suggest moving the composter to a slightly sunnier spot as well. Extra heat will only help the process. I’ve also attached an article that should help:

https://www.planetnatural.com/tumbling-composter/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Bob –

Yes, the Safer Wasp & Hornet Killer will do the job! It contains a powerful blend of 3 separate products that work quickly on contact. If you are looking for something with a bit more residual (lasts longer after application), we recommend the Don’t Bug Me Spray.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Barb –

I’m not sure if you’ve seen this page.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/sowbug-pillbug-control/

It’s chock-full of advice for controlling rolly pollies using proven, organic techniques.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Melanie –

As you probably know, clover, which takes nitrogen from the air and deposits it in the earth where your grass can use it, was an accepted, even encouraged part of lawns until the early fifties. It only acquired its weed status because the earliest broad-leaf 2,4-D herbicides killed it off along with the dandelions.

Clover is a terrific lawn alternative because it grows deep roots, tolerates poor soil, and stays green when many other plants turn brown. It also sucks nitrogen out of the atmosphere and returns it to the soil as fertilizer. As a result, your clover lawn maintenance program should include fertilizers that are low, or contain no nitrogen. I’ve included a few links to products the we offer that are perfect for clover lawns.

Here’s a liquid fertilizer…
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/alaska-morbloom/

…and a dry fertilizer:
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/age-old-dry-fruit/

You could also combine these two amendments and apply in the spring and fall.
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/langbeinite/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/fish-bone-meal/

When managing weeds do not blanket spray with a broadleaf herbicide — it will kill clover too. Instead spot treat dandelions using a non-toxic, non-selective weed killer such as AllDown Organic Herbicide. A safe alternative to Roundup®, it contains 23% acetic acid (household vinegars contain 5%), plus citric acid to work fast. It’s people and pet friendly too!

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/vinegar-weed-killer/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Barb –

We offer the product that you are looking for both online and in our retail store located here in Bozeman, Montana. You can purchase the product directly from us and we’ll ship it right to your door. Plus you won’t be charged a sales tax or waste time — and gas — driving from box store to box store.

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Barb –

I think this is what you are looking for.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/ecosmart-granules/

Apply around home foundations, lawns and landscapes at a rate of 2-5 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Reapply as needed.

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Barbara –

Looks like you’ve got all the good stuff! A soil test will be key to knowing what to apply. For a great general all purpose top dressing I would recommend adding just a tad more phosphate. A product like calphos would fit the bill perfectly, as the ratio of 0 – 3 – 0 will help to balance out the nutrient ratio of your final product. The calcium is great for tomatoes too! Without looking at a soil test, I’d recommend the following top dress recipe. Feel free to increase or decrease depending on the amount needed.

1 cup – CalPhos
1 cup – Sup’r Green Chicken Manure
1 cup – Norwegian Kelp
1 cup – Worm Castings
1 cup – Charlie’s Compost
1 cup – Ancient Forest
2 cup – Azomite

Mix together vigorously until products are combined evenly. Add the completed mixture to soil, use in the bottom of newly-dug transplant holes, or spread as an all purpose topdressing.

Let us know how else we may be of help!

Happy Spring

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Bob –

We would discourage you from killing carpenter bees as they are an important pollinator, just like honey bees, etc… However, if it is important to control their populations, you may want to use Safer® Wasp & Hornet Killer. It contains d-Limonene (orange peel extract), pyrethrins (made from chrysanthemum flowers) and potassium salts of fatty acids (insecticidal soap) to kill on contact. Does NOT contain CFC’s or ozone depleting substances and has a fresh citrus scent — NO chemical odor!

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Rob –

We offer a mixture of three separate fly parasite species — Muscidifurax raptorellus, Muscidifurax zaraptor & Spalangia cameroni — to provide the most complete control of filth flies across the country, regardless of the season. These small parasitic wasps attack and kill filth flies in their immature pupal stage. Very effective because they kill the pest before it can mature into a flying adult. They will not bother humans or animals.

For best results, apply early (500 per large animal). Releasing small amounts weekly, every other week, or even monthly has proven to be more effective than one large release. Simply scatter the contents of the bag over suspected fly breeding sites, including manure piles, stales/ pens/ kennels and garbage cans.

Note: Fly parasites do not attack adult flies, thus care must be taken to keep the existing population as low as possible. We recommend using them with fly traps and/ or baits.

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jeremy –

A high-quality potting media should have enough cohesion to hold itself together and not spill through the drainage holes. For sandy soils, you can moisten the media and then fill the pot, or line the bottom of the pot with a coffee filter to prevent spillage. Plants need the drainage holes to prevent root rot and other moisture related problems. Do not add pot shards or gravel to the bottom of the container, this can actually decrease drainage. Also, never allow plants to sit in a saucer of water.

I’ve attached a link to our Container Gardening 101 article. It’s filled with helpful tips and techniques for gardening in pots.

https://www.planetnatural.com/container-gardening/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Bev –

The company recommends you water with a solution of one teaspoon Maxicrop Soluble Powder/ gallon of water every week, if possible. When it comes to doing root injections for feeding trees, you’ll want to insert the injector down 10 – 12 inches every three feet around the drip zone (the diameter of the canopy around the base.)

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi MJ –

This sounds like an exciting project! I would recommend using the Autopilot Greenhouse Master controller for environmental control: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/greenhouse-controller/. As far as cooling goes, you could plug either your portable air conditioning unit or your fan into the controller. From there, you can set your desired temperature for the thermostat to maintain in the room. For CO2, it would be best if you were to buy CO2 tanks from a local source. You would apply this regulator to the tank: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/co2-regulator-reg-1/, and regulate the levels with the environmental controller. The controller also allows you to program separate temperatures for day and night, which it sounds like you require!

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Kimbra –

If the two gardens are side by side, for a total area of 3 x 5, you could use a T5 fluorescent tube fixture. A two foot, eight tube system would give you a great amount of light output! Here’s a link:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/t5-fluorescent-grow-light/.

If the gardens are in two separate areas, you could hang a 200 watt “cool spectrum” CFL bulb above each garden (https://www.planetnatural.com/product/cfl-grow-bulb/). The bulbs do not need a ballast or reflector, and with this cord set (https://www.planetnatural.com/product/vertical-cord-set/) can be plugged directly into any 120 volt outlet.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mick –

We work closely with the good folks at Roots Organics and received the following response to your question.

Oregonism XL would not be a replacement for either of those products. Using them on the same plants would not be an issue as long as they aren’t mixed together in a solution/applied simultaneously. (It’d be a little too much for the microbes to handle before they colonize.)

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Tom –

​Due to ease of use I would recommend the Flora Series Performance Pack. This kit includes everything you need to grow your plants from start to finish in a hydroponic set up​. The feeding chart is a nice reference guide to follow, though you may find it beneficial to tweak it and design your own. Keep in mind leafy greens need more nitrogen, whereas fruiting plants such as tomatoes will need more phosphorus and potassium once they begin to produce fruit. Less is better than more when it comes to adding hydroponic nutrients, it can be easy to burn your plants by adding too much nutrient. Sticking to a nutrient application regime and cleaning out your reservoir on a weekly or bi-weekly basis will help immensely.

Keep in mind, aquaponics utilizes fish waste as plant fertilizer. Due to this, I would refrain from adding any nutrients to your aquaponic system. We have a wonderful article about aquaponics in our research center. It should be of immense help to get your fishy garden up and swimming. Check it out here!

Good luck with your scientist competition!

[Eric Vinje]

Hey Gabe –

For the size and price you’re looking for, I’d recommend The Compost Wizard Tumbler. This model would be the largest size we offer within your desired price range and receives wonderful reviews from customers at our retail store in Bozeman.

Happy Composting!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Sara –

Yes, Safer Insecticidal Soap will work on boxelder bugs and does not persist in the environment so it should NOT be harmful to bees. Spray at night — and not during bloom — to minimize harm to pollinators. Also, diatomaceous earth can be applied to window sills and around door jams to discourage pest entry. Crack and crevice sprays — like Don’t Bug Me — will break down quickly in the environment and are also good for this use. Here’s a couple of articles that should help:

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/household-pests/boxelder-bug-control/
https://www.planetnatural.com/diatomaceous-earth-bees/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Alex –

Sorry for the delay in my response. I wanted to make sure I responded correctly and was waiting to hear back from the manufacturer. Here’s their response:

Our CO2 controllers are designed to supply CO2 and not remove it. Also, our units will not be very accurate above 2000 ppm, because plant environments typically have a maximum CO2 level of 1500 ppm, and our meters are calibrated at 400 ppm.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hey Alan,

It depends on the type of spray you are using! As long as your overwintered insects have yet to hatch, applying a dormant oil should not kill off a population. Most of the insects in our variety pack don’t utilize trees as a means of reproduction or overwintering. Ladybugs prefer bunch grass when seeking a hibernation habitat. Mantis often utilize bushes, while the parasitic trichogramma and fly parasite overwinter in the body of their host species. Lacewings would be the only one of concern, as they lay eggs on the leaf surface. However, as long as the lacewings have yet to hatch, an oil-based spray should be okay and will not harm eggs.

Here’s a link to an article we wrote:

The Effect of Pesticides on Beneficial Insects

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Susan –

Long term natural pest control is the most cost effective approach to managing insect pests and beneficial insects are an integral part of this process. But sometimes a short-lived, botanical pesticide is necessary to knock-down large numbers of insect pests. Also, if pest populations are high, use the least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide — Insecticidal Soaps, Horticultural Oils, Botanical Insecticides — to establish control before releasing ladybugs to maintain control.

The organic pesticides that we offer leave no residues and breakdown quickly in the environment but many can harm beneficial insects. As a result, they should only be used after other least-toxic options have been tried. Also, rather than blanket spraying the area with a natural insecticide consider spot-treating areas with high numbers of pests to minimize damage to the “good guys.”

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Paul –

From my research, the most effective means of controlling this bug sans spraying would be exclusion. Concentrate on the sunniest side of the house, as they tend to favor the warmth. Caulking doorways and windows, installing screens over chimneys and vents, and replacing anything that will no longer viably seal are all ways to help prevent these pests from entering the home. Sealing off attics and crawlspaces, insulating exposed plumbing pipes, and raking any debris away from the foundation of a home will remove their habitat for reproduction and winter hibernation.

Unfortunately, there is no pesticide registered to control these bugs, liquid or otherwise. Mechanical removal may be necessary, use tissue paper or rubber gloves to remove individual insects and place in a container for release outside or disposal. A vacuum cleaner will work well for this task. Be sure to dispose of bugs as soon as possible as they may stink up your vacuum.

Happy Spring!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Neal –

You bet you can apply Tanglefoot Pest Barrier directly to trees — many growers do — but it will discolor the bark. Also, make sure that you place your sticky barrier high enough on the trunk so that grasses or groundcovers do not create a natural bridge over the barrier.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi John –

Yes, Eco Bran Grasshopper Killer is toxic to pets, but they would pretty much have to get into the container to be harmed. The product comes pre-mixed on a bran bait with a 2% solution of the pesticide applied. Ecobran is effective at this reduced rate because the pest actually consumes the product. It is also applied at a rate of 2-10 lbs per acre so I don’t think they would be able to consume enough of the product after application. Ecobran will also not harm most beneficial insects because they are not attracted to the bran bait.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/ecobran-grasshopper-bait/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Dave,
At Planet Natural we sell bumblebees for greenhouse pollination (https://www.planetnatural.com/product/bumble-bees-natupol/), not honeybees. However, there are many honeybee retailers on the internet. Here are a couple to get you started:

Betterbee: http://www.betterbee.com/live-honey-bees-and-queens/live-honey-bees-and-queens.asp
Gold Star: https://www.goldstarhoneybees.com/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Ritu!

I’m glad to hear you are looking into composting for the gardens! My recommendation for a good compost tumbler would be the 88 gallon compact one to accommodate the amount of food that will be coming in from the garden and cafeteria. It’s easy to move around and has a convenient handle to make turning the pile much easier.

Below is the link to follow in order to get a better idea of the dimensions and design. Keep in mind that you want a bin that can hold a large enough volume to really heat up properly. The Compact ComposTumber is perfect for this.
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/compact-compost-tumbler/

Happy planting!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Cindy!

Our Herbal Collars repel unwanted pet pests for up to three months. Feel free to check out the product page for ingredients and more information here: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/herbal-pet-collar/.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Robert –

Good question. The best technique for conditioning straw bales for gardening is to use an organic fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen. Sprinkle it over the bales — or apply through your drip system by making a liquid solution –and water to draw it into the bale. Some experts recommend using traditional chemical fertilizers for curing, but we organic gardeners wouldn’t want to do that. However, we could get the same effect by using organic fertilizers high in nitrogen, say blood meal or cottonseed meal; or an organic fertilizer mix with good nitrogen content. Not much fertilizer is needed, but thorough watering is important. Don’t over water to the point where your nitrogen source is washed away. Here’s our article on the subject:

https://www.planetnatural.com/straw-bale-gardening/

For drip irrigation you may want to consider our Alaska Fish Fertilizer (5-1-1). It’s a good organic, yet inexpensive, liquid fertilizer that should NOT clog your emitters.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi John!
Those are some very good questions about the AllDown Organic Herbicide! Unfortunately, I’m not sure if you need a license to spray if you’re doing it commercially in New York. You do not have to have one if it’s a personal project.

Alldown works best on dry areas so applying near a wetland may prove to be problematic. I would suggest getting a hold of the manufacturer at http://www.summersetproducts.com/contact.html to get more in depth answers.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Samantha –

I have included a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) on our H2Os product page. Here’s the link:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/h2o2-hydrogen-peroxide-29/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Rachael –

You probably don’t need to install grow lights in order to cover the wall with vining plants. If you choose a low-light plant such as ivy or virginia creeper, you would be able to successfully obscure the concrete without even adding lights!

If you were going to install lights, you would need to be sure that they were protected from the elements. You would just need simple 120 volt outlets to supply the power. For a 20 ft long wall, you would probably want to use 5 or so fluorescent t5 light panels. They can daisy chain together, so you would only need one outlet!

Here’s a link:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/t5-grow-light/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello John –

Yes, that is correct. You will be adding bioroot, biothrive grow, camg+, and bioweed throughout the first 4 weeks.

Visit the General Organics Feeding Schedule (PDF) here.

Happy growing!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Marco –

Because there’s so much conflicting information about trichogramma wasps and clothes moth I wrote the leading producer of trichogramma. Here’s what they had to say:

Yeah, that’s a tough one. We have no scientific backup to say with certainty that it works. It is therefore our position that we cannot recommend Tricho for control of clothes moths. Any such use would be experimental and without promise of results.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Seth –

Most growers tend to favor florescent or high pressure sodium lighting systems (HPS). Florescent lighting systems tend to be a bit more wallet friendly for seed starting or small vegetable growing systems. HPS works well for larger growing set ups or indoor farming production. Some growers utilize LED lighting, though I’d say it’s quite rare (at least in Montana) to see a grower using solely LEDs outside of the research field. LED and HPS are very comparable in terms of plant growing habits, and you’ll see a similar return on investment as far as wattage and plant growth are concerned. A LED system can cost 2-4 times the amount of money an HPS system will cost upfront. However, LEDs are quickly gaining popularity due to their energy saving capabilities and long lifespan. For a bit more in-depth descriptions of different plant lighting systems, check out info pages here and here.

As a general rule of thumb, a red spectrum of light is prescribed for flowering or fruiting plants, a spectrum that is more blue works better for vegetative plants. Individual LED lights usually come in seven colors: red, magenta, purple, blue, white, ultra violet (uv) and infrared. Some system’s such as the Kessil LED utilizes just one targeted light spectrum. Other LED systems will house many different targeted spectrums, such as this California Light Works System. Plants grow best under natural sunlight. With this fact in mind I would recommend a “broad spectrum” LED that offers multiple different colored lights within one light board.

Daylength and growth habits will vary between plant species. Photoperiod is the term used to describe how day length affects plant growth. Plant species are classified into three different photoperiod groups, short-day, long-day, and day-neutral plants. These three groups require different lengths of daylight in order to thrive and eventually flower. For your experiment, I would suggest focusing on one type of plant, such as tomatoes, herbs, or salad greens. A little bit of research will help you decide which species of plant will work best for your experimentation needs.

I hope this is a nice starting point for your research. Peer reviewed scientific studies pertaining to LED lighting will be of immense help to answering specific questions. Good luck with your senior project!

[Eric Vinje]

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE USE AND RELEASE OF TRICHOGRAMMA WASPS

Trichogramma wasps arrive still developing inside moth eggs on one inch by one inch square(s), or sheet(s) of squares, that resemble sandpaper. Each square contains roughly 5,000 parasites. Depending on temperature conditions during shipping, adult trichogramma wasps will emerge 1-3 days after arrival. If immediate release is inconvenient, the container(s) can be placed in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. DO NOT FREEZE.

Purchase trichogramma wasps here.

Trichogramma adults are very small (1/50th of an inch), and once emerged can be seen as tiny brown dots moving around in the container. They are best released in the early morning or late afternoon. Simply place the opened container(s) out of direct sunlight in the area where moths are suspected or seen. To control pests in trees, staple or otherwise attach the container to the tree as high as possible. This will also prevent the square(s) from being blown away by the wind. Ants can be a problem, eating the eggs on the square(s) if found — placing the square(s) in strategic areas should prevent this. Hanging the square(s) on a piece of thread is a solution.

Check closely for moth activity in the spring (pheromone traps are very helpful for this). If moths are present make regular releases — every other week, or weekly during peak activity — for best results. Once caterpillars are present, other control measures such as Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt-k) may be necessary.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Beck –

Beneficial nematodes actively hunt, penetrate and destroy over 230 different pests including fleas, fungus gnats, black vine weevils and white grubs. Naturally occurring, they are not harmful to people, pets, plants or earthworms and will continue working for 18 months. I’ve included a partial list of insects controlled below. If you need advice on a particular insect pest please let me know.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/beneficial-nematodes/

Armyworms
Banana Root Borers
Black Currant Borers
Black Vine Weevils
Cabbage Root Maggots
Carpenter Worms
Codling Moth Larvae
Corn Earworms
Corn Rootworms
Crane Fly Larvae
Cucumber Beetles
Cutworms
Dogwood Borers
Fire Ants
Flea Beetles
Flea Larvae
Fungus Gnats
Gypsy Moth Larvae
Iris Borers
Japanese Beetle Grubs
Mole Crickets
Onion Maggots
Pine Weevils
Poplar Clearwing Borers
Peach Tree Borers
Raspberry Crown Borers
Root Knot Nematodes
Shore Flies
Sod Webworms
Strawberry Weevils
Sweet Potato Weevils
Tobacco Budworms
White Grubs
Wireworms

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello!

I’m happy to hear you’ve taken a liking to growing your own potatoes! Coffee grounds were a good start to getting them up and going, but I think a simple layer of organic compost should do the trick. I would suggest testing the pH of your soil just to be sure that you are keeping it in a friendly range for your plants before fertilizing.

Potatoes shouldn’t require too much fertilizer after planting if a good base layer was set to plant in. Feel free to check out our pages on growing potatoes and where to buy our organic compost here:

https://www.planetnatural.com/organic-potatoes/
https://www.planetnatural.com/growing-potatoes/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/organic-garden-compost/

While doing a little more research, I found a website with a gal who uses coffee grounds before planting and the progression she takes, along with another page that describes how to use coffee grounds in the garden with instructions.

Her experience: https://groundtoground.org/2010/12/10/potatoes-and-coffee-grounds/
Coffee grounds as fertilizer: https://groundtoground.org/2010/07/05/ground-to-ground/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Lynda! I’m sorry to hear about those pesky diseases getting in your tomato garden! There are a few different ways to sterilize that may work for you including vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, or bleach. If you decide to go the bleach route, I would say that doing a bleach soak for around 10 minutes of 1 part bleach and 5 parts water may work, but I would also suggest adding Mycostop to your plants as well this year. It does wonders for Fusarium Wilt and I’m sure your garden will appreciate it.

Keep us updated on how it all works out! Those diseases can be pretty tough, especially since the Fusarium Wilt can survive in soil for up to 15 years. Make sure you sterilize your tools too!

Check out our Mycostop here: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/mycostop/

Also, I thought you’d like to see our pages on particular tomato problems.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/plant-disease/fusarium-wilt/
https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/plant-disease/verticillium-wilt/
https://www.planetnatural.com/tomato-gardening-guru/pests-disease/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Tony –

Our T5 grow lights deliver flexibility, performance and high lumen output in any growing environment.They are available in multiple sizes and include fluorescent 6400K, T5 tubes. The systems may be daisy-chained together and allow you to choose multiple hanging configurations (overhead, vertical or horizontal) to meet your garden’s design.

Each fixture comes with threaded cable hangers pre-installed for horizontal orientation. For vertical hanging, unscrew the cable hangers from the top of the unit, remove the screws from the side holes on the desired end of the unit, and screw in the provided cable hanger system. Here’s a link:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product-category/growing-indoors/grow-lights/t5-lighting-fluorescents/

Happy growing!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Linda!

Ten pounds of Elemental Sulfur covers 1.000 square feet of soil so you would need to broadcast 1.25 pounds of it in order to lower your pH one point. Plants thrive in pH conditions between 6.0 and 7.0 but, the best would be 6.5 so, don’t worry too much if you get to 6.3 instead. If you do want to be more precise, just add a slightly smaller amount to compensate for the difference. I would suggest broadcasting the sulfur and then working it into the soil rather than mixing it with compost. The results are much more consistent and it is also recommended by Montana Sulfur Company (the manufacturer).

Feel free to check out our product information on Elemental Sulfur here: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/elemental-sulfur-50-lb/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Ken –

There are any number of lawn alternatives that require less work than turfgrass. Here’s a list of our shade lovers.

Moss is not as resilient as most grasses, but it’s certainly able to withstand occasional foot traffic.

Creeping Charlie, also known as ground ivy, can be a lovely, thick ground cover in areas of partial shade.

Lily-of-the-Valley, Snow-on-the-Mountain and Sweet Woodruff are all perennial shade-loving ground covers that require little care and form a dense weed-resistant canopy.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Sandra –

According to our calculations, you would need 14 of the Kind L300 LEDs to cover that area. They have a 2′ x 3′ footprint.If you are interested please call 1-888-349-0605 for pricing.

Note: A much cheaper option would be to set up our T5 fluorescent lights. They can be daisy chained together and are suitable for most vegetables. Here’s a link:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/t5-grow-light/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Pauline —

Unfortunately, both Fledderjohn Soya and Shirofumi Soybean seeds have been discontinued. However, we do have a new variety in stock to replace them – the Midori Giant Soya Bean. It is not online at the moment — hopefully soon. To order please call 1-888-349-0605.

[Eric Vinje]

Hello!

Lycopodium Ferns are quite the plant! However, there doesn’t seem to be a whole lot of information on them as far as propagation goes. From what information I could find, I would suggest an orchid mix to try and get the roots going again.

There is more information regarding how to propagate on this site here: https://anbg.gov.au/gnp/tassle-ferns/index.html. Unfortunately, that is all I could come up with, but I believe you’ll find it very helpful.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Rebecca –

Unfortunately, our night phlox seeds have been discontinued and are no longer available. We do have a similar flower though – the Night Scented Stock Flower. Check it out here! https://www.planetnatural.com/product/night-scented-stock/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Ashley!

It sounds like you were on the right track by transplanting into better draining soil. That can quickly cause root rot which would greatly impact your plant. By the looks of your palm and the information you gave us, I would say that a good slow release all purpose fertilizer such as Doctor Earth All Purpose would help to perk up it up. Be sure to only do this during its growing season. Another suggestion would be to prune back the stalks that have dried so the palm can focus on growing new, healthy growth rather than putting its energy to support the old, damaged parts. Always take care in removing any old, dried leaves like the ones you described for that same reason as well. If the brown spots continue to pop up and worsen to the point where it resembles leaf spot, cut away all affected areas with sterilized equipment and treat before it has time to germinate with products such as Safer Garden Fungicide located on our online website. Good luck with it and I hope it starts shaping up soon!

Check out our Dr. Earth All Purpose Fertilizer and Safer® Garden Fungicide here:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/life-all-purpose-fertilizer/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/safer-garden-fungicide/

Also, take a look at our page on Leaf Spot if you would like more information and what signs to look for. https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/plant-disease/bacterial-leaf-spot/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Rita,

Unfortunately there is very little that can be done about Fairy Rings. We do not carry any other products besides the Physan 20 to assist in getting it under control and I have yet to see an all natural product that can eradicate it. I would suggest using an aerator to penetrate the thick fungi that is causing the rings and topdress with compost while ensuring there is plenty of water getting to the roots. We have a page that goes more in depth on the subject at: https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/fairy-rings/.

Regarding your fertilizer needs, our Dr. Earth Super Natural fertilizer would be just the thing to perk your lawn up again and it will also help prevent fairy rings from popping as well! Both the packaging and our page on it gives you application rates for each season. Take a look here! https://www.planetnatural.com/product/super-natural-lawn-fertilizer/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jim —

The best way to go about using a product to reduce pH, such as our General Hydroponics pH Down, is to simply start adding a little at a time to your nutrient solution and testing after each addition. There is no set amount to add due to the fact that the purity of the water and the nutrient strengths vary from application to application.

Here is a link to the product: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/general-hydroponics-ph-down/.

Good luck and happy growing!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Ben,

Regarding your question on spreading the Elemental Sulfur, we suggest broadcasting it over the soil once it is down and then working it in for best results. I also got in touch with the Montana Sulfur Company and they confirmed adding in after the topsoil is laid out is the best way. For more specifics, visit our product description page at https://www.planetnatural.com/product/elemental-sulfur-50-lb/ .

You can also contact the local Department of Agriculture for further questions and additional help.

Good luck!

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