[Eric Vinje]

Hello Cathie!

It sounds as if your passion fruit plant is relatively old. From my understanding, passionfruit vines are short-lived, most dying within 5-7 years. If you have a vine planted outside that seems happy and productive, I would suggest leaving it in the ground. The stress of transplant into a different type of media may very well kill your vine. Fortunately, there’s a solution! It is quite easy to start passionfruit vines from seed. If possible, use seed from the old vine you were hoping to take with you. As you would be starting with a young plant a smaller pot would be okay, about 5-7 gallons. For your large vine the smallest pot I’d recommend would be about ten gallons. The larger you can afford to carry onboard, the better. Based upon the size of the vine at the base, I think it would be happiest in at least a 20-25 gallon pot. Soil is ideal, however it’s possible to get away with a lighter media such as coco coir. If you do decide to go the coir route, you’ll have to amend the soil with granular fertilizers. Follow these steps for growing Passion fruit in containers using coco coir media.

1. Transplant your vine. Gently loosen your vine from it’s current pot. Softly massage the roots, removing as much soil as possible. Be careful not to break the roots. Fill a pot with coco coir media mixed with a balanced (5-5-5) granular fertilizer at the recommended rate on the label. Dig a hole large enough to bury the passionfruit roots in the coir media. Place the plant into the hole, and cover with more coco coir/fertilizer mixture. Staking or trellising may be necessary depending on the size of the vine.

2. Watering deeply and thoroughly. Make sure at least 15-20 percent of the total water put into the pot flows out the bottom. Make sure your media dries out between waterings, check this by sticking your finger into the growing media up to your second knuckle to gauge the moisture level. Passionfruit can be prone to root rot, and need to dry out in order to prevent this. Good watering practice is key to your passionfruit thriving. Coco coir is known to dry out slightly faster than peat or soil based mixes. At least once per day or every other day will likely be necessary.

3. Feed your plant on a schedule. Plants prefer relatively stable conditions, and can thrive when given proper care. Look for a fertilizer with a 10-5-20 ratio, as this will help encourage vegetative production as well as fruit production in the summer. Granular or

4. Protect your passionfruit from the elements. Wind and freezing temperatures can easily injure sensitive vines. Avoid putting your vine in a windy corridor, and make sure to protect it from frost and freezing temperatures. Trellis and stake as the plant grows, giving it ample space to produce delicious passionfruit.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Lee Anne —

As long as you’ve got problem pests for larvae to eat they should be perfectly content! Only adult lacewings consume nectar, no need to feed it to your voracious, insect-killing larvae. Once adults hatch from their pupae, they will begin to look for food in the forms of pollen and nectar. If no open flowers are readily available for consumption purchase Lacewing Food here, and follow the included directions. When fed a diet of this, lacewings have been known to lay three times the amount of eggs they would normally lay.

Happy IPM-ing!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Marilee –

Some rose varieties can respond negatively to a liquid copper application. Any remaining leaves will likely drop when exposed to the copper fungicide. Follow these steps to control fungal disease in a rose plants.

1. Remove debris. Any remaining debris left over from previous years is a surefire way to propagate disease. Remove any old leaves, dead canes, and old mulch from the base of plants. Do not compost, but burn or destroy debris to prevent fungal spores from propagating in the future.

2. Increase air flow. By pruning your roses to increase the airflow between plants and between individual canes, you decrease excessive moisture and the environmental conditions that cause fungal diseases to thrive. At least five feet of space is recommended between plants.

3. Use a Sulphur based fungicide. Weekly applications of a sulphur-based fungicide will help to keep fungal disease at bay, while not harming your plant. Use a micronized sulphur for the best leaf coverage.

4. Provide optimum growing conditions. Roses under stress are more susceptible to disease. Providing proper soil that includes compost, peat moss, or aged animal manures in essential to healthy, happy roses. Regular fertilization during the growing season can work wonders. Roses prefer a slow release organic fertilizer, choose a product like Happy Frog Rose Food to keep your plants well fed all summer long.

Jumpstart Plant Tonic should help encourage healthy plants over the winter months, come February/March, or when you notice an increase in growth rate I would begin adding the aforementioned Rose Food to satisfy their heavy nutrient requirements.

Happy Gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Unfortunately no. What pest(s) are you having trouble with? I will send you our recommendations for combatting it.

[Eric Vinje]

Hello!

To answer your question regarding your rose cuttings, I would suggest moving them to the greenhouse so as to provide a warm, humid environment for them. If you would like to keep them in your kitchen, place a container over the cuttings to provide that extra bit of humidity to help them thrive along with a source of heat (be careful not to roast the roots!)

As far as I can tell, you’re already doing a great job in providing good conditions for them as is but, this will give them a little more encouragement. You can check out our page on rose propagation at https://www.planetnatural.com/rose-gardening-guru/propagating/ as this goes in to a bit more detail.

Happy growing!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Anisa –

At Planet Natural we’ve been supplying beneficial Insects for pest control since 1991 — it’s how we got started! Over that time we’ve developed quite a bit of experience using the best predators/parasites for the job. In this case, we strongly recommend releasing Phytoseiulus persimilis, sold under the name Spidex®, they’re simply the most effective biological control for use against the two spotted spider mite available. Yes, there are other predatory mite species available that are marketed for specific temperature and humidity levels, but in our experience, they are not as effective as Spidex®.

Produced in The Netherlands and overnight freighted to the United States, Spidex® is so much more viable than any predatory mites we have received from other insectaries… and they’re cheaper! I think it has to do with the size of the European insectary that we deal with and the large greenhouse industry in Europe — they’re just producing more bugs and they’re very good at it. I’ve attached a link:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/predatory-mites-spidex/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Olinga –

Please find our recommendations for treating early and late blight in tomatoes:

• Plant resistant cultivars when available.
• Remove volunteers from the garden prior to planting and space plants far enough apart to allow for plenty of air circulation.
• Water in the early morning hours, or use soaker hoses, to give plants time to dry out during the day — avoid overhead irrigation.
• Destroy all tomato and potato debris after harvest.

If disease symptoms are observed, apply a copper based fungicide (2 oz/ gallon of water) every 7 days or less, following heavy rain or when the amount of disease is increasing rapidly. If possible, time applications so that at least 12 hours of dry weather follows application.

Early Blight
https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/plant-disease/early-blight/

Late Blight
https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/plant-disease/late-blight/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Joey –

Azamax, unlike neem oil, does not work as a fungicide and will not work on powdery mildew. Azamax is made from Azadirachtin, the key insecticidal ingredient extracted from the neem seed. It is a very effective organic pest control that works as an antifeedant and insect growth regulator (IGR). If you are looking for a neem spray that will work on both insect pests and fungal spores I recommend using one of the following:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/neem-oil-spray/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/organic-neem/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Brian –

Custom Automated Products CAP has gone out of business. Hydrofarm purchased CAP’s line of controllers and now sells them under the Autopilot brand. Here’s a link:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product_brand/autopilot/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Noreen –

Yes, we do carry a large assortment of sprouting seeds and sprouters in our Bozeman retail store.

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Beth –

Please check out the General Organics® BioThrive vegan plant food formulas. They are specifically designed to meet the needs of all plants through every stage of growth. Best of all, the ingredients are entirely vegan, containing plant extracts, sea kelp and mined minerals. We also offer a Vegan Fertilizer Mix from Down to Earth® for soil applications.

DWC and Ebb and Flow hydroponic systems both have benefits, as well as headaches associated with them. For small scale setups (fewer than 6 plants), I’d say that a small DWC system is likely easier to clean and less overall hassle. If you’d like to do more than six plants, an Ebb and Flow system with a flood table would be the way to go.

Hope this helps!
Good luck.

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Brad –

We just received a fresh batch of ladybugs late last week, so they are in great shape and ready to ship. Ladybugs are important natural predators of aphids and do well when shipped in cold temperatures — they simply go dormant and will wake when warm. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide — insecticidal soap — to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control. I’ve included an article of ours the will help.

https://www.planetnatural.com/aphids-ladybugs/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Mike!

Unfortunately, the size of your desired worm casting bed would be incredibly difficult to build if you’re looking to have the castings fall into another container. A more simple method that can accommodate the size of your bed would be to make a simple raised bed and fill it with a mixture of newspaper, peat moss, compost and other organic materials for the bedding.

As far as food goes, dried manure, table scraps, garden waste, coffee grounds, and crushed fine crushed eggshells will do just fine. It is recommended that you bury your scraps to help with any unpleasant odors the food may put off. Be sure to avoid foods such as meats, processed foods, citrus, or any foods containing fats/oils.

You’ll begin to notice the progress after a few weeks and once you are satisfied with the results, place scraps on one corner of the bed to lure them away so you can harvest your fresh worm castings. Remember that once your worms are up to full speed, they can eat their weight in food in a single day. Be sure to replace diminishing food as they munch through to keep your worm farm happy!

Check out our page for more details on worm castings and products that may assist you with your new bed!

https://www.planetnatural.com/worm-composting/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello,

Whiteflies are very fond of citrus, so it is no surprise that you have noticed them on your lime tree. The detergent mixture should help to reduce the infestation, but if the population is high it would be wise to use a stronger insecticide before the pests spread to your other plants. A great product to get the job done would be SNS 203. It is a concentrate but the directions to dilute it into a spray bottle are very simple. Additionally, this product can also be mixed and poured into the soil, thereby killing pests in the soil while simultaneously killing pests on the foliage when sprayed. This way you can be sure to eliminate pests in both environments. Please see our article on whiteflies and links to the mentioned products below.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Maxicrop Liquid Seaweed is safe to use on indoor plants. Glasses and mask should not be necessary, but avoid getting liquid in your eyes or ingesting large amounts. As for the smell, almost every liquid nutrient that has an organic ingredient as its base is going to smell slightly. Products containing bat guano or fish emulsion are often smellier than plant based nutrients. I’d say that Maxicrop’s Liquid Seaweed product has minimal smell. Though not scent free, it won’t make your apartment smell like fish or manure.

Happy Gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Joe –

It is best to attack bad infestations at different stages in their lifecycle. By eliminating the pest while they are in an immature stage of their lives (eggs, larvae, and pupae) you are able to drastically reduce the adult moth population.

Cleaning up your trees is first and foremost. Remove any and all loose bark and other orchard debris material that the moths may overwinter in. Any sort of loose branches or wood piles should be removed and destroyed. Band strips of cardboard 6-8 inches wide tightly around the tree trunks in early spring. Coddling moth larvae will use these strips to pupate, remove and destroy strips after cocoons have formed.

After cleaning up the area, spray a horticultural oil to eradicate any eggs that may be present. Second, apply beneficial nematodes which will seek out and destroy immature stages of the coddling moth. Beyond the nematodes, Coddling Moth Traps and Kaolin Clay are your best bet for preventing worm infestations. Surround WP is the brand of kaolin clay we sell here at Planet Natural. I’ve attached links to the horticultural oil, nematodes, coddling moth traps, kaolin clay and a link to our different sprayer types (the backpack sprayer is at the bottom of the page). Good luck!

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/horticultural-oil/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/beneficial-nematodes/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/codling-moth-trap/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/surround-crop-protectant/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product-category/organic-gardening/garden-supplies/sprayers-applicators/

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

Leaves turning brown could be cause by a variety of issues. The most likely culprit is some sort of fungal disease, especially if the environment is damp or you live in an area with high humidity. Over-watering the cherry tree could also create a favorable environment for fungal diseases to thrive. First things first, make sure to clean up any old or decaying plant material that may be around the base of the tree. Old leaves, twigs, and other organic matter can harbor fungal diseases. Once you’ve cleaned up the area, applying a sulfur or copper based fungicide should help to combat the disease. I would recommend Bonide Garden Dust as it contains three different active ingredients to help combat disease. Thirdly, I would change up your watering regime a bit, watering your tree maybe once or twice a week. Pay attention to rainfall, and avoid watering on days that it rains. Make sure your tree roots are able to dry out, as too much water may “suffocate” or drown them. I’ve attached a link below to the garden dust product I mentioned.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Allison!

Springtails can be be a major bother when they gather in large numbers.

Regarding your comment on using pest control to manage them, if you employed the help of chemicals, it may have been in vain. Springtails have shown an incredible hardiness to most chemical concoctions seeing as they are a hexapod that have been around for an estimated 400 million years and have had a lot of time to build a tolerance to most pesticides.

Springtails thrive in well fertilized, wet/moist conditions, especially if there is fungus or mold in the area. My best guess would be the ground cover of dead leaves etc. made for perfect conditions to repopulate and inhabit as there may have been a brew of fungus growing underneath in the damp environment so when it was disturbed, they went looking for new residency.

I would suggest you invest in diatomaceous earth as well as beneficial nematodes and spread them over your lawn, as well as any spots in your house with concentrated numbers. You can find more information on both products on our website. Their numbers can be greatly effected if the area they are inhabiting is kept very dry. So, if you can shy away from watering, that could be your last method of defense.

As far as your allergies, springtails might be a pointer of something more sinister lurking in your house seeing as there is little to no concrete evidence of them causing allergic reactions. If there are any leaking pipes or otherwise damp, dark places in your house, you may want to look into an inspector to check for various molds. There are an array that can cause your symptoms such as black mold.

Here is a link to our springtail information page that will shed a bit more light on the situation, as well as offer alternatives – https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/springtail-control/.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

​Hi Christian,

I would recommend a potting mix that is slightly acidic as root crops prefer such an environment (pH 6 – 6.8). ​However, if you are growing microgreens, coco coir is another great soilless media option. Additionally, microgreens really benefit from the nitrogen in a sprinkling of earthworm castings, so you might think about having some of those on hand as well. Check out the links to these products and good luck!

Roots Organics Potting Soil: pH 6 – 6.5

Fox Farm Natural & Organic Ocean Forest: pH 6.3 – 6.8

Roots Organics Coco Palms: pH 5.2 – 6.3

Roots Organics Coco Fiber Bale: pH 5.2 – 6.3

Wiggle Worm Earth Worm Castings: pH neutral

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jim,

It should still be possible to compost the entire pile of grape pomace. It may be beneficial to add manure to the pile to introduce microbes that will re-invigorate the decomposition process. You will need to be sure to turn the compost pile frequently to aerate it. It will also help to hose down the pile occasionally to provide moisture for the composting microbes. As you stated, it will be best if you use the compost on the marginal parts of the property, as it will not be commercial grade. I’ve included a link to our article on building a compost pile:

https://www.planetnatural.com/composting-101/making/compost-pile/.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Bryan –

Ideally, a 1000w High Pressure Sodium light would be best for your tropical tree. Bulb and ballast combos are listed on our website here. If a HPS system is a bit out of your price range, a south facing window with a T5 Lighting systems would provide the best bang for your buck. At least one – four foot, eight tube system should supplement the tree enough to survive the winter. Two systems would likely be better, as the tree seems to be quite large. Find T5 systems here!

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Ashley –

Yes! Spidex works great for indoor plants. Spider mite predators do not bite, no need to worry! I would sprinkle them over all of your plants, even cacti and succulents. For the carnivorous plants, quarantining would work. Treatment also shouldn’t harm them. What kind of carnivorous plants do you have? They might readily defend/consume any spider mites that have the gall to try and attack them.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Stephen –

Yes! RAW Nitrogen is basically crystallized ammonium in soluble form. Based upon the 20-0-0 ratio listed when mixed properly the nutrient solution created should contain 20% nitrogen. This means that yes, 20% of every 2oz of water is plant available nitrogen. Fescue has a nitrogen recommendation of 1lb per 1000 sq ft. Dissolved nitrogen would make the water slightly heavier than the usual 1.04lb = 16fl oz. I’d think if you apply it at a rate of 16 fl oz per 1000sq ft. you should be good to go!

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Peter –

Lights off is best when applying Azamax indoors. High wattage bulbs and oil based products can cause plants to burn. Consider spraying just before lights turn off, or use a green LED flashlight while working in the dark.

Check out our selections of Green LED headlamps and lanterns here:
https://www.planetnatural.com/product_brand/active-eye/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Michele –

How long seeds last will totally depend on the type of seed and how it is stored. Seeds must be stored completely dry, or you risk moldy seeds. Constant temperatures are best for seed storage, big fluctuations in temperature can stress seeds and cause them to not germinate.

Some seeds are viable longer than other, naturally. Some plants (often classified as noxious weeds) produce a seed that stays viable for 40+ years! Vegetables such as beets, broccoli, cucumbers have a shelf life of 3+ years if stored properly. Tomato seeds can be viable for 5 or more if stored properly. Other vegetables such as peas, celery, and corn are known to have short shelf lives, usually two years or less.

Check out our page on seed viability, the linked chart might give you an idea of how long your seed may be good for. You can see it here:

https://www.planetnatural.com/seeds-last/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

It sounds as if the soil used in your beds has a rather large seed bank reserve. Ideally, your landscaper would have used weed-free soil to fill your beds. Unfortunately, the added leaf mulch won’t do much to help beyond increasing your soil organic matter. The pine bark chips may act as a physical barrier to the weeds, however they won’t do much to stop germination. Thankfully there is a solution! Corn Gluten Meal is a pre-emergent herbicide that will prevent weeds from sprouting if applied next spring. As it is a pre-emergent, it must be applied before seeds germinate, or it will not be effective. Early spring is ideal! Follow the instructions for a garden bed for best results.

Please also see our excellent article on using leaves in the landscape here.

Happy Growing!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

I’d recommend adding RAW Cane Molasses at the recommended ratio, which is 1/8 tsp – 1/4 tsp per gallon of water. Grocery Store bought molasses will likely be quite difficult to apply to soil, as it is much too thick and will clog your sprayer head.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jeremy –

According to Smart Pot’s website, their fabric pots are “made of inert, porous, geo-textile fabric. “As opposed to a few of our competitor containers, we are BPA-free, and have no significant amount of copper or lead.”

As for how long the pots last, Smart Pot claims that customers have reported that they are still using pots that are over 10 years old. They also claim that sun exposure, or hot and cold temperatures should not have any effect on the pots.

Pricing will vary depending on the size and style of pots that you are looking to order but for a quantity that large, I would recommend getting in touch with the company (1-888-349-0605) for a quote, as they can probably offer you the best pricing possible.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Chelsea –

The type of light or system you will need really depends on how much light your plants will be receiving in the window as well as how many plants you have. If you’ve got them located in a south facing window, additional lighting really wont be necessary. However, should you need another light source I would recommend something much simpler than the bulb, ballast and reflector combo.

The first option would be to install a few of our basic Agrosun 26W CFL bulbs. They are extremely efficient low energy light bulbs that screw into normal sockets while providing full spectrum daylight. They can be placed closer to plants than any other bulb so if you have a small number of plants I would recommend installing these fixtures into a small clamp lamp – or check out our AgroSun DaySpot Grow Light Kit.

If you are trying to provide light to more than just a handful of plants, my favorite lighting system is the T5 Fluorescent Lighting System complete with full spectrum bulbs and a built in ballast. They are great because they come in one piece and just plug into a normal 120V outlet. They also come in a variety of sizes so depending on the number of plants and the amount of space that they take up will determine the size of the system you will need.

It is easiest to hang a T5 from screw hooks in the ceiling with a simple ratchet system. Although, if your plants are not very tall then check out our Jump Start T5 Light System Kit that comes with a 2 foot stand that the light can be raised or lowered on.

Finally, once you select the best system for your set up, I would strongly recommend installing a light timer to ensure that your plants are consistently getting at least 12 hours of light each day, on a regular schedule.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Hanne –

Unfortunately I do not know of ANY product with a squeeze top/dropper bottle you are describing. We do carry liquid solutions that would be a close match If you’d like to stick with a liquid, I’d recommend either Age Old Fish & Seaweed or Dr. Earth Liquid Solution. Both are going to be very close to your current nutrient ratio, and give specific directions and amounts to add to your water. A small pipette or eyedropper would work as a replacement for the squeeze bottle. Find both here:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/dr-earth-liquid-solution/

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/age-old-fish-seaweed/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Al –

I’ve had great success with both Azamax and Organocide Spray for whiteflies. Azamax comes in a concentrate form which you add to a spray bottle. Organocide comes in a 24oz Ready-To-Use spray bottle. By themselves they are very effective for whiteflies.
For incredibly difficult infestations, I’ve found a weekly rotation of the two plus a pyretherin based insecticide (Azamax wk 1, Organocide wk 2, and Pyretherin wk 3…) seems to decimate just about any insect problem you may have.

Find them here:
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/organocide/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/azamax-azadirachtin/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/dont-bug-me-insect-spray/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Heather,

What a great idea! I like the idea of having lights built into your shelves. It sounds like the simplest option for that set up would be to just fill those light sockets with our AgroSun 26W CFL grow bulbs. They fit into a normal light socket and provide full daylight spectrum lighting while using very little energy. Additionally, these lights can be placed much closer to your plants than most grow lights. The only other thing you would need for this system would be a timer to ensure your herbs are getting at least 12 hours of light each day. A second option would be to install a T5 lighting system above your sink, also with a timer. These systems are ready to go with full spectrum bulbs and just plug into a normal outlet. We offer a wide variety of sizes but the size of the system you need will depend on the dimensions of the space you are working with and the amount of plants you want to grow. Links to these products are below.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/26w-cfl-bulb/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/t5-fluorescent-grow-light/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/grow-light-timer/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/dual-outlet-timer/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Ross –

Yes, Beneficial nematodes will kill sod webworms. Living in the thatch, just above the soil, sod webworms spin a light webbing and feed on the undersides of grass. Damage occurs on most turfgrasses including bluegrass, bentgrass, tall and fine-leafed fescues and buffalo grass and is most prevalent in areas that receive plenty of direct sunlight or south-facing slopes. Heavily shaded areas are seldom attacked.

Beneficial nematodes (Steinernema feltia) kill almost all pest insects in and on the soil, including thatch, and are an effective control measure for use against sod webworm. Simply scatter Scanmask® over the affected area and water. Killing action begins 24 hours after application.

Note: Applications can be made anytime the ground is not frozen.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Hope –

Beneficial Nematodes have a two month shelf life if refrigerated. However, they can live in the soil, at levels high enough to control pest insects, for around 18 months. Applications can be made anytime grubs and larvae are feeding on plant roots, and when soil temperatures are above 32˚F. Killing action begins 24 hours after application.

Nematodes can travel quite a bit vertically and should be able to survive the winter. Just make sure applications are made before the soil is frozen. Also, we stock Scanmask® year round and can ship them quickly to you, usually in 5-7 days.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Joey –

Tachinid flies are often under appreciated for their work controlling greenhouse and garden pests. They look rather like a normal household fly, however they come with devastating news to any insect that is munching on your plants. Depending on the subspecies, they can deposit their eggs on leaves that will in turn be ingested by the host, they can glue the egg on to the host, or they can inject the egg inside their host. Once the egg hatches (typically takes 3-4 weeks to hatch) it will start to consume the host.

Tachinids are so beneficial because they have a wide diversity of prey, ranging from gypsy moths, cabbage loopers, Japanese beetles, army-worms, cutworms, sawflies, codling moths, peach twig borers, pink bollworms, tent caterpillars, squash bugs and “many others”. When beetles are the host, both the larva and adults can be parasitized (depending on tachinid species). Adults in the true bug and grasshopper orders are subject to parasitism.
Research is still on going, but there seems to be a cutworm type that has been shown to reduce populations of the variegated cutworm, the army worm and the yellow-striped army worm.

Since Tachinids are not commercially available, the best way to get them in your garden is to grow plants with umbel-type flowers (carrots, cilantro, dill, coriander, buckwheat and sweet clover).

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Ernie –

Unfortunately, African Violets can not be propagated by their roots. However, if there are any salvageable leaves remaining on your plant you can give it a fresh start by taking a few “cuttings”. African Violets are very good at this method of propagation but it will require about a month of patience before you see any new plants beginning to grow.

Begin by gently removing some leaves from the plant (probably as many as you can in this situation). Next, make a 45 degree angled cut at the base of each leaf stem with a sterile blade. Place each cutting in a clean beer bottle filled with bottled water. Your reservoir does not have to be a beer bottle specifically, just something that will support the leaf above while the cut stem remains under water. Keep the the bottled cuttings out of direct sunlight as they begin forming roots and check the water often for clarity and cleanliness. When necessary, change the water out. Once you notice root development at the base of the leaf stems, move your newly rooted cuttings into small pots filled with a potting soil with good drainage. Water in your new plants well and place in a sunny window. Additionally, it is a good idea to loosely place a plastic bag with a few holes over the pots to help increase humidity as they really begin to grow. After about a month you can remove the bags and you should have happy healthy new plants!

Good luck, I hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

All-righty… lot’s of good info here!

So, I ran a quick check on the OMRI and NOP web sites to see if sulfur dioxide is approved for organic use and it is NOT when used for disease control. However, if you’re making organic wines with it… you’re good to go!

Hope this helps.

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jean –

Espoma’s “Soil Acidifier” comes in a 6-lb bag and the active pH lowering ingredient is elemental sulfur. (For container application use 1 tbsp for every 4 inches of pot diameter.)

Sulfur, when incorporated into the soil and “digested” by microbes, will produce sulfuric acid which releases hydrogen ions that in turn will lower the soil pH. We also have elemental sulfur granules that when incorporated into the soil, will do the same thing.

Also, there are some fertilizers that will lower the pH. The fertilizers that do this contain nitrogen in certain forms, that when they are broken down in the soil, release hydrogen ions and lower the pH. The main types of nitrogen in these fertilizers are urea, monoammonium phosphate (MAP), diammonium phosphate (DAP), ammonium polyphosphate, ammonium sulfate and urea ammonium nitrate. Watch out though, fertilizers with nitrates (NO3) will raise the pH. (Typically, fertilizers have a balance of nitrogen in the forms that will lower (ammonium) and raise (nitrates) pH so that the fertilizer won’t effect the pH).

Gypsum is another option, although it is mostly used in extreme cases of high pH and sodic soils. This will make the sodium more leach-able, but will leave calcium in the soil.

Another route would be to add “pH down” or another pH lowering amendment to your water to reach the desired 5-5.5 pH range.

Espoma Soil Acidifier:
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/soil-acidifier-5-lb/

Elemental Sulfur:
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/elemental-sulfur-50-lb/

Raw Nutrients (nitrogen – ammonium sulfate):
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/raw-nitrogen/

Espoma Gypsum:
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/garden-gypsum-5-lb/

pH Down:
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/general-hydroponics-ph-down/

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mark –

According to the USDA’s National List of Allowed Substances elemental sulfur — the active ingredient used in a sulfur burner — is allowed for plant disease and mite control in organic crop production.

View the National List of Allowed and Prohibited Substances here.

To stay current with the NOP guidelines that may affect a materials organic status/or a materials use, organic growers should check the USDA National Organic Program website for updates.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Susan –

Beneficial nematodes are compatible with most chemical insecticides, herbicides and fertilizers. As a result, I don’t see any reason to wait. If applying an organic fertilizer, even better!

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Cassie –

Monterey BT unfortunately will not work for the grubs. BT must be consumed by the critters in order to be an effective means of control. Utilizing lawn aerator sandals and an Azadirachtin based insecticide should do the trick. Find both here!

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/grub-killer/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/lawn-aerator-sandals/

What kind of grubs do you think they are? Cutworm? Japanese Beetle?

[Eric Vinje]

​Hi Pat –

Wasps respond readily to mechanical and cultural controls, such as false nests or pheromone traps​. Placing a trap or a “enemy” wasp hive near the bat/butterfly houses will help to control and deter them. Find both here!

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/wasp-trap/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/waspinator-wasp-deterrent/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Adam –

Used successfully for years, Predatory Mites are well suited for application on all plants grown inside, an office setting is no different. In fact, we ship them across the country to several malls and airports that use them to control spider mites on their interior plantscapes. These tiny predatory insects do not bite people or pets and will not attack other pest insects such as aphids, mealybugs or whitefly. They are strictly predators of plant feeding pest mites and once they run out of food, they simply starve to death.

Before applications, we recommend you knock-down heavy infestations (webbing and feeding marks will be noticed on plant leaves) with a short-lived, natural insecticide. Consider using an insecticidal soap, or other organic insecticide for the job. This is important, because most pest insects are capable of reproducing like crazy — that’s one reason why they’re pests. If you don’t knock them down first, you won’t see results, even though the predators are consuming them at a furious rate. Alternatively, you could purchase a large amount of predators to compete with the high pest numbers, but this wouldn’t be very cost effective. If only a few plants are infested, consider removing them.

To release, gently mix the contents of the container — we use corn grit or vermiculite as a carrier — and shake the predators out close to mite infestations. Release 20-30 predators per medium sized plant or 2,000 (one bottle) per 700 sq ft. Control of a light infestation should occur in two to three weeks. On heavier infestations a second release may be required. Instructions for care and release are provided with each order.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

Those small, white worms in your potatoes are most likely wireworms (1 to 1-1/2″ long). Common in home vegetable gardens, they attack germinating seeds, roots, bulbs and tubers. Here’s a link that should help:

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/garden-pests/wireworm-control/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Ted –

In my opinion the best product for Japanese beetle lawn grubs is Milky Spore. However, it spreads slowly as each infected beetle larvae dies, decomposes and releases billions of new spores into the soil. Each 10 oz can treats 2,500 sq ft which is much more than you need, but I don’t think you can go wrong over-applying it!

Another option would be to top-dress the damaged area with Beneficial Nematodes. They work much faster than milky spore powder, but cover a smaller area. One pint covers approximately 300-500 square feet.

Learn more about Japanese beetles here https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/japanese-beetle-control/.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Geri –

Met52 is no longer available. My understanding is that the product was too expensive to produce. As for controlling ticks without harming your chipmunks I recommend the following:

• Keep grassy and weedy areas trimmed and remove wood piles to reduce harborage for tick hosts.
• When entering infested areas, wear long-sleeved shirts and long trousers with tight-fitting cuffs.
• Wear light-colored clothing. Ticks are easier to see on a light background.
• If the above methods are insufficient, use the Herbal Pet Collar or one of our other least-toxic products to protect dogs and cats.
• For a quick knockdown, apply Safer Mosquito & Tick Killer to areas where pests may be hiding (product breaks down in 7-10 days).

Tip: Frequent inspection and removal reduces the risk of disease transmission.

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Shannon!

In order to minimize costs and maximize results, I would recommend a hybrid hydro system. A drip system for your orchids would be the most cost effective, while minimizing the stress involved with transplanting or media change. A drip system involves a nutrient reservoir, drip line, emitters and timers. It would be an easy addition to your current system, and prevent you from having to totally re-do your current set up.

The orchids will need to be organized by their lighting and water requirements. By attaching plants with similar light and water requirement to the same drip line, you simplify the system and prevent having to use a different timer for each plant. The water timer offered here will allow you to effectively manage the watering amount as well as the time between waterings. An emitter or inline drip system would be ideal, as you can alter the spacing between distribution spots.

Good luck with your orchids!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Chemille –

At this point I suggest pruning away the diseased/ infested portions of your plants or pulling everything up and starting over. Throw the trimmings in the trash so as not to spread the fungus. If it’s legal in your area you can also burn the material. Do NOT put the pruned plant material in your compost pile where the spores will have a chance to overwinter and later be spread in your garden. If you do replant consider the following:

• Select plants that are disease resistant when possible
• Provide plenty of room between plants so that air can circulate between leaves and stems
• Water plants close to their base, rather than from the top, and water early in the day to give excess moisture a chance to evaporate from the leaves
• Inspect plants frequently for pests/ disease and treat with an organic product when a problem is found
— Visit our Pest Problem Solver (https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/) for pictures, descriptions and a complete list of earth-friendly remedies

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Barbara,

As long as you select a potting soil with good drainage your ivy plants should thrive! I would recommend Fox Farm’s Ocean Forest blend. It has great aeration and it is 100% natural and organic. Some other options would be Roots Organics potting soil or Black Gold potting soil. Additionally, it is important to pot your ivy in something just slightly larger that the root system as too large a pot can lead to root rot. Be sure that the pot also has drainage holes for the same reason. Plastic or clay pots are recommended.

Best of luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Dave –

I have been told numerous times that Beneficial Nematodes will NOT work on Root Knot Nematodes. In fact the University of Florida states:

“Currently, no predators are commercially available for augmentative releases for nematode control in vegetable production systems.”

So, the question is; how do you control harmful “root-feeding” nematodes organically? Chemical nematacides are available, but very expensive, extremely toxic and not approved for organic use. I believe your best bet for getting rid of root knot nematodes in the garden is to combine several least-toxic strategies, which include the following:

• Grow resistant varieties. Look for an “N” on the seed packet which indicates nematode resistant.

• Avoid moving infected soil to other parts of your garden. Nematodes do not travel far, but can be spread with tillers and hand tools.

• Rotate garden crops with plants that are known to reduce nematode numbers. Broccoli and cauliflower have been mentioned as good rotation crops.

• Soil Solarization — heating the soil with clear plastic prior to planting will reduce or eliminate many harmful organisms including nematodes.

• Build your soil with good organic soil amendments. Shellfish fertilizer (https://www.planetnatural.com/product/shellfish-fertilizer-50-lb/) contains chitin which encourages the growth of organisms that inhibit harmful pest nematodes.

Hope this helps!

[Author]

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