[Eric Vinje]

Hello,

A good fertilizer for succulents and cactus would be any balanced nitrogen – phosphorous – potassium ratio at 1/4 strength. Typically this means diluting a 10-10-10 fertilizer to 2.5-2.5-2.5 or something close. In other words, if you have a 10-10-10 fertilizer and the directions say to mix 1 Tablespoon of fertilizer into one gallon of water, you would only mix in 1/4 Tablespoon of that same fertilizer into a gallon of water.

You will want to apply this fertilizer just as you would if you were simply watering your plants, and you can do so anytime they require moisture. Remember however, that when they are dormant (typically late fall to early spring), they can not be fertilized. Only supply your succulents with water during these months – even as little as once a month. When succulents and cactus are not growing they do not need excess nutrients and the decrease in light and temperature also reduces their need for water.

To simplify the dilution requirement, we carry a fertilizer that you could apply at full strength as well as one that could just be cut in half. Links to both below:

​3-3-3: use at full strength ​https://www.planetnatural.com/product/dr-earth-liquid-solution/​ ​
4-4-4: use at half strength https://www.planetnatural.com/product/premium-gold-fertilizer/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello,

It sounds like the lack of blooms on your rose bush are likely due to whatever has been munching on it! However, there are a number of reasons why roses fail to bloom. It could be a result of over fertilization – especially an excess of nitrogen in the soil. It could be that your plant is not receiving enough hours of sunlight as roses need at least six full hours of sun each day. Another cause, could be the time of year that you pruned the bush. Pruning is best done in early spring, when the plant is still dormant. Finally, environmental stress of the plant due to high temperatures for several consecutive days paired with water stress, or a heavy pest infestation can result in a bush that will not bloom.

Treatment of your plant will depend on the current environmental conditions, the type of infestation, as well as water and fertilizing practices. I would recommend altering your cultivation methods if needed in addition to identifying what kind of pest is actually attacking your rose. Examine it very carefully and use our Pest Problem Solver page to help you out. From there, you can see what type of products work for each type of pest. Note that roses are highly susceptible to fungal infestations, so the pest might not be an insect at all. If it does happen to be a fungus, a copper or sulfur based fungicide should do the trick!

Lastly, you could also do a simple soil test to see if the soil your rose is growing in is within the normal ranges of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium levels, as well as pH. The Soil Tester Kit by Rapitest is an easy to use kit that also gives recommendations based upon your results. Links to mentioned products and resources below:

https://www.planetnatural.com/rose-gardening-guru/pests-disease/
https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/soil-tester/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Robert –

There are a couple promising avenues to take to control yellow-striped armyworms. Before applying some absurdly toxic chemical into your garden that would likely kill everything, including beneficial insects, a natural remedy should always be your first move.

Armyworms are prey for a number of parasitic wasps and flies. Trichogramma wasps help in controlling and decreasing the army worm population, if applied at the proper times. It is better to try to control them early rather than later.

The worms overwinter in their pupal stage, emerging as adults when the ground thaws out in March-May. When these adults emerge from the soil in the spring, they set out to mate and lay more eggs. The best time for making releases is when the armyworm eggs are present.

Since yellowstriped armyworms have multiple generations in a single growing season (about 40 days from egg to adult, 3-4 generations in a season), multiple applications may be necessary. We do NOT recommend storing trichogramm for more than a couple of days.

Monitoring the moths emergence in the spring with sticky traps, paying attention to the grey/white moths hovering around your lights at night as well as checking the plant surfaces (under leaves too) can give you an idea about how bad the infestation is. If the armyworm population seems to be getting out of control, a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) application might be necessary.

Here is a link to our page concerning armyworms and our products to control them: https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/garden-pests/armyworm-control/

Happy Gardening!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Nina –

Freezing temperatures will likely affect the microbial life of your compost or soil. Similar to an industrial freezer, the chilling temps will help preserve some of the soil life, while others will freeze and die. It is possible to revitalize your soil before planting. Compost and worm tea works wonders! You could also use an inoculant such as Azos or Mykos to re-introduce healthy mycelium and microbial life.

I’ve attached our article Make Soil for Your Raised Beds here. Keep in mind that raised beds dry out more quickly than garden soil. So, a heavier mix — containing compost — might be best. Compost — plenty of it — will always improve soil, no matter how good it is to start with.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Kent –

I contacted our nematode manufacturer concerning your nematode vs. apple maggot fly question and here is what they had to say:

Yes, you should apply Scanmask® in the fall since apple maggot will overwinter as pupae in the soil. The cooler weather will not hurt them. The nematodes will then go further into the soil after application to survive the winter. The nematodes will become more active again in the spring and will kill the apple maggots before they emerge. Also, the rain will not hurt the nematodes. In fact, they like moist conditions. As long as it isn’t flooding they will be fine.

Note: A large number of maggots leave the fruit several days after it has fallen from the tree. As a result, a certain level of control can be achieved by cleaning up any fallen fruit from the base of the trees.

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Kenneth –

While there is nothing on the Monterey Bt label about grazing cattle I do not see why you couldn’t apply it here without concern. Bacillus thuringiensis is a biological insecticide that kills worms and caterpillars, including armyworms, but has no effect on people, birds, earthworms, or beneficial insects such as honeybees and ladybugs. Approved for organic use, this easy-to-mix liquid concentrate biodegrades quickly in sunlight and can be used on fruits and vegetables up to the day of harvest.

Read the EPA’s Fact Sheet on Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies kurstaki (PDF) here.

Apply Monterey B.T. when worms or caterpillars are first noticed, then repeat at 5-7 day intervals while they are active. Use more frequently to control heavy infestations and reapply after heavy rains.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Starr –

As a primer, I’m going to recommend you take a look at our Rose Gardening Guru page. It’s chock-full of all kinds of rose growing information and I think it will help.

https://www.planetnatural.com/rose-gardening-guru/

As for caring for roses during the winter months, keep in mind that they really aren’t big fans of cold. Temps in the range of 60-70˚F are best. Depending on where you’re located your greenhouse should provide enough protection to keep them healthy and happy during colder weather. Is it heated? If not, check out our page on heating greenhouses here https://www.planetnatural.com/greenhouse-heating/. Also, make sure that your pots are big enough when you plant. A 10-15 gallon pot should be big enough for any long-stemmed variety. Inspect frequently for pests and water plants from below to prevent many fungal diseases from showing up.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Eric –

The cloning solution helps to encourage plant vigor, rather than increase your chances of rooting. By adding the solution to your water you are making sure your clones receive a steady dose of specifically formulated plant nutrients used by cuttings. The solution contains just about every usable plant macro and micro nutrient, at low enough levels to prevent nutrient shock to the clones. There is no hormone in the cloning solution, however it does contain vitamin B1 which the label claims will help to reduce transplant shock. For the most part, using it in the cloning process it seems to be a matter of preference. Some folks have enough success with the gel that they forgo the solution entirely. Other growers swear by the gel/solution combo. I’d suggest trying it out to see if it fits well into your personal process.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/clonex-clone-solution/

Happy Cloning!

[Eric Vinje]

​Hello!

I’d think you’d get the best results growing avocado from seed with the addition of natural lighting. Placing your pits in a south facing window would be ideal, though west or east will work as well. I’d be concerned your seedlings may not be getting enough of the visible light spectrum in order to produce roots. LED lights produce a highly targeted spectrum, whereas natural sunlight produces a wide spectrum with many different colors of light.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jack,

Lucky for you, one of the most effective lights for what you want to do is also one of the most cost effective options for indoor growing! The Jump Start T5 Grow Light System will provide all the light that you need for growing flowers and herbs. It comes with a high output T5 fluorescent bulb, a light fixture that plugs into a normal wall outlet, and a stand which allows you to raise the light up as the plants grow.

The T5 bulb is designed with enough output to supply plants with adequate light for as little as 12 hours per day (the minimum light requirement for most plants). However, no matter the bulb you decide to use, 12 hours will not be enough light for pre-flowering plant growth phases. You will need to have the light on for 14 to 18 hours per day until your plants begin to flower. If you want to, you can induce flowering by providing just 12 hours of light later on, but doing so is not necessary for plants to flower, it is more or less like a trigger. That being said, an HPS bulb or a bulb which provides more colors on the red spectrum will boost the flowering of any plant.

The space you are working with is not large enough to support the amount of light you would receive from an HPS bulb and ballast system (not to mention the expense), the T5 system accepts warm (red) fluorescent bulbs meant for flowering. These bulbs are sold separately but are only slightly more expensive than the standard replacement bulbs (the one that comes with the T5 system).

For your set up I would recommend the 4 foot Jump Start T5 System, a timer for consistent light duration, a Hot House Kit (everything you need for seed starting besides potting soil), and a 4 foot T5 warm bulb for flowering later on. Below are links to those products.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/jump-start-light-system/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/grow-light-timer/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/hot-house-with-heated-mat/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/t5-bulbs/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

All of o shipping charges are calculated real time with FedEx on the website. And yes, we do pass on our preferred discounts that FedEx gives us. Just add products to the shopping cart and enter your zip code. Several shipping options and quotes will be given prior to proceeding to the checkout. If placing a large order, we recommend you call 1-888-349-0605 for a shipping quote. We not only get grate rates from FedEx, but many common carriers too!

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hey David!

Unfortunately there is not one beneficial insect that will take care of all three citrus tree pests. I think a mix of green lacewings and leafminer parasites will fit your needs. The lacewings will take care of the aphids as well as the crawler stage of scale insects. Leafminer parasites will help to control your leafminer population. If you’d like, it may be beneficial to do a round of treatment with Horticultural oil before you introduce the beneficial insects. Horticultural oil will help to knock back ALL life cycle stages of the scale, giving your beneficials a leg up on the situation.

Find leafminer parasites, lacewings, and horticultural oil here!

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/horticultural-oil/

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/leafminer-parasite-miglyphus/

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/lacewing-eggs/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello,

You will be able to source all of the essential elements in order to build a great compost pile without having to look too far! As long as your carbon to nitrogen ratio is optimal (25-30:1) your compost pile will be breaking down properly. Here are some lists of acceptable additions:

Carbon Rich Material “Browns”
Cardboard (free of dyes)
Corn stalks
Fruit waste
Leaves
Newspaper
Peat Moss
Saw dust
Stems & twigs
Straw

Nitrogen Rich Material “Greens”
Alfalfa/Clover/Hay
Algae
Coffee grounds
Kitchen food waste
Garden waste
Grass clippings
Hedge clippings
Manures
Vegetable scraps
Weeds (that have NOT gone to seed)

​Things to Avoid
Meats
Bones
Fats/oils/grease
​Diseased plant material
Colored paper
Coal/charcoal
Cat/dog waste
Manures from carnivorous animals
Onions
Garlic
Citrus peels

As for the rhododendron and holly leaves, you can definitely put them in your compost pile. However, it is a good idea to really chop or shred them up, as they take much longer to break down due to their fibrous and waxy make up. It really depends on how quickly you are trying to create usable compost. It might be a good idea to have a separate pile going that you incorporate those leaves into and another pile that you do not. That way you can have a pile you know will rapidly break down into garden goodness and have yet another ready to use later on. Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Nancy –

What sort of draining system do you have in the bottom of your raised bed? If there is a plastic sheeting, I would recommend adding holes to prevent water from collecting in the bottom of the bed. There are a couple more things you can do to help your garden proliferate.

First, I would consider trimming back the undercarriage of the maple tree to encourage sunlight to reach the garden bed. This might be the single most important thing you can do to help your garden.

Second, it would be ideal to plant only shade loving veggies and herbs in your bed. Unfortunately, this means staying away from some garden treats such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and melons. Stick to vegetables such as broccoli, carrots, beets, lettuce, spinach, mustard greens, kale, garlic, beans and peas. All of these will tolerate shade well. Herbs that will do well in shade include mint, thyme, chives, oregano and curly leaf parsley. These veggies and herbs need about 4 hours of direct sunlight per day in order to flourish.

If all else fails, it would be possible to turn the bed into a raised flower garden. Plants such as lily of the valley (conuallaria Matalis) actually prefer full shade and moist soil. A couple other ornamental plants that would do well in moist, shady conditions include ferns, sweet woodruff (gallium Odoratum) and hosta hybrids.

Good Luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Choi –

It all depends upon the variety of strawberry! June-bearing and ever-bearing plants produce based upon the hours of sunlight you give them. To ease indoor production, I would recommend a grow light that is day/neutral. The varieties “tribute” and “tristar” are recommended by the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs for commercial production.

A ceramic metal halide lighting system sounds like it would be the best fit for your farm. CMH bulbs create a spectrum that mimics natural sunlight. We offer a full system set up which you can find here! https://www.planetnatural.com/product/ceramic-metal-halide/

A more wallet-friendly alternative would involve a ballast and high pressure sodium bulb. HPS bulbs are heavy on the red light to help encourage fruiting and flowering. Find them here. https://www.planetnatural.com/product/digital-grow-lights/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Gwendolyn –

Yes, All Season Horticultural Oil works on many plant pests — including whitefly — by smothering the insects, but keep in mind that how and when you apply the product makes a big difference on how well it works and the health of your plants.

• Use 1.5 – 4 Tbsp per gallon of water and apply once or twice weekly, depending on growth and insect pressure.
• All Seasons Spray Oil is most effective on whitefly during the immature stages.
• Do NOT apply when temperatures are above 90˚F or when plants need watering as it may shock plants and cause leaf drop.
• Leaf burn may be affected by the quantity of oil used and temps at the time of application.
• Do NOT exceed the maximum rates or apply more often than indicated on the label.
• Use caution on open blooms — bleaching and spotting may occur.
• Certain plant species may be more sensitive to oil.
• Give special attention to underside of stems, leaves and limbs.

Please refer to the product label for specific mixing instructions.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Melanie –

Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki or Bt-k will work on Squash Vine Borers but it must be injected or sprayed into the stem holes. In fact, studies have shown that Bt — an organic insecticide — was just as effective as chemical treatments. Here’s a link that should help:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/monterey-bt-kurstaki-bt-k/

Keep in mind that Bt is not approved by the EPA for vine borer control and will not show up on the product label.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Andrew,

What an awesome project to take on for your school! Although it may be a bit labor intensive it is definitely doable. I think that the easiest method will be to build a large static compost pile. If all goes well, you should only have to turn the pile three to four times and it should be usable in as quick as 6 months.

First of all, you will need to be sure that the food waste you are collecting is in fact all compostable material. Perhaps talk to the dinning hall staff and let them know that the waste they are setting aside for you can not contain the following items: meat, dairy products, oils, onions, garlic, or citrus peels (don’t worry about a few slip ups – your pile will be large enough to handle it). Next, you will need to source an equal amount of carbon rich material, as the food waste takes care of the nitrogen input necessary to make good compost. These materials include bark, cardboard (free of dyes), leaves, newspaper and straw. Maybe you can gather some of these things from campus recycling or talk to a local farmer or tree service about straw or tree bark chips and leaves. The pile itself should be placed in a location with full sun year round. Composting will still occur in the winter but it will just slow down slightly. As long as your carbon to nitrogen ratio is optimal a compost pile does not require additional heat. Remember that before you start to build the pile, especially with this method of composting, you will need a good base layer of larger chunked material for aeration. Big wood chips are ideal.

As for the space you will need, I would suggest at least a 25 square foot area for the pile to sit on. With this space and the amount of material you have to work with you can plan to build up to a 20 X 20 X 10 foot tall pile. You may also want to build two concrete bins to store your carbon rich and nitrogen rich inputs. The idea with a static pile is that you layer everything up and then pretty much just let it do its thing. It is the least labor intensive method with low fuel inputs as it only needs three or four good turns.This method also reduces the disruption of beneficial fungi and reduces CO2 loss and mineral and nutrient leaching due to frequent turning. Additionally, static composting requires little water and since food waste is already very moist you might not need to add any additional water to the pile. As long as water content remains around 55% you’re compost is doing good things. That being said, typically rain shelter is not required for protecting compost piles but in your case it would probably be a good idea.

Ideal shrinkage of usable compost from all input materials should be about 1/3 of the original size of the pile. The amount you will produce depends on the amount of material you decide to build the pile with. I think that the most labor intensive aspect of this project will be gathering, sourcing and transporting the materials, but hopefully in six months you will have some great compost for use in your campus landscaping! Good luck, I really hope you can make it work!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Bill –

Great question. When setting up a ventilation system we typically figure a 7% loss in CFM for every 25 ft. when using flexible ducting (a 3% loss if using metal duct pipe). You should also factor a 3% loss for every 90 degree bend in your ductwork. Keep in mind that these are ballpark numbers — each system is unique and actual numbers may vary.

The following post should also help:

https://www.planetnatural.com/forums/topic/setting-up-air-cooled-grow-light/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

​How long ago were the rabbits inhabiting the plot? Were any broad spectrum herbicides applied before the rabbits were introduced? That is the only addition that would be of concern to me. ​It is simply a three year wait period from the date of the last in-organic addition in order to certify a plot as organic. Unfortunately, due to this transition period it is impossible to certify your plot as “organic” until you’ve waited three years, even if starting with untouched land or certified organic soil and nutrients. Based upon your description of the plot and previous land use I would not be concerned about residual chemicals beyond 90 days. Decomposed rabbit manure is actually thought to be one of the best soil conditioners. If you can, I would hold out and wait to plant in this soil, as it will likely be highly productive.

Have you done a soil test to confirm contamination? I would ask the farmer directly what sorts of herbicides and fertilizers he is using. He may be using a stable product that has minimal or non-existant rates of seepage. Working with your neighbor may be key in this situation. He would be able to tell you exactly what products he is using, and hopefully be able to explain their life cycle through the soil. He may also have an idea where you could find manure or topsoil that has been untouched for cheap or free.

Hope this helps,
Good Luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello,

According to the State of Hawaii’s Plant Industry Division, plant parts including seeds are NOT to be shipped into the state without a permit. It would be wise to contact the branch in order to determine weather or not that regulation applies to garden seeds and/or to obtain a permit. Once you’ve done that, you can choose from all of our seeds! Lucky for you, you can grow just about anything all year long!

Here is a link to the department’s website: http://hdoa.hawaii.gov/pi/pq/travel-shipping-information/traveling-from-the-u-s-mainland-to-hawai%CA%BBi/

Best of luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Tim –

AgraLawn Crabgrass Killer is an all-natural, organic weed control used as a spot-treatment in lawns and landscaped areas. To apply, simply wet the area you want to treat with a hose or use immediately after a rain. The product will turn from a white to a bright yellow to indicate adequate moisture when applied. A light to medium dusting applied in even strokes will work best (Do NOT wash the product off of the leaves). Results will be seen in 3-5 days.

Crabgrass Killer can be applied any time of year and is not temperature sensitive. In all of our years of testing it has worked in all temperatures common to North America. Also, your use of the ORTHO product will not impact the efficacy of this product. Killing crab grass has never been easier.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello,

There are nearly 7,000 estimated different species of rust causing pathogenic fungi. Although many of those would be destroyed when your compost pile reaches the ideal temperature (135-150 degrees Fahrenheit), some of them would not. Those thermophilic fungi would not be eradicated until the pile reached temperatures over at least 160 degrees Fahrenheit and at that point the heat would also cause a loss of nutrients and destroy most of the beneficial microbes. Therefore, it would be wise to avoid composting the infected leaves so that you do not spread the disease. You can opt for burning the leaves but do not bury them and be sure to also disinfect any gardening tools that came into contact with the pathogen. Here’s a couple of links that will help:

https://www.planetnatural.com/composter-connection/making/materials/
https://www.planetnatural.com/composting-101/what-to-use/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Ron –

Safer Garden Dust contains Bt Kurstaki, an effective organic solution for the control of leaf-eating caterpillars. Once applied, it breaks down quickly in sunlight. Therefore, it is recommended that Bt dust be applied in the evening or on cloudy days. Unopened this product will last two years if stored in a cool, dry place. Once opened it will last one year. There is no expiration date on the container.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Liz –

New Age Old products are on their way and will be online shortly!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Ben –

Thanks for the question. I will update are plastic plant saucer description online to include depth. Here are the heights:

6-inch – 1.5″ tall
8-inch – 1.6″ tall
10-inch – 1.9″ tall
12-inch – 2.1″ tall
14-inch – 2.4″ tall
16-inch – 2.6″ tall
18-inch (black) – 2.7″ tall
20-inch (black) – 3.5″ tall
25-inch (black) – 3.7″ tall

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Alice –

Juniper hawthorn rust and cedar apple rust are very similar plant pathogens that attack eastern red cedar and other varieties of juniper. Both are caused by fungal spores that require juniper plants to be present to exist. These spores overwinter as a reddish-brown gall on young twigs of various juniper species. In early spring, especially during wet weather, these galls swell and bright orange masses of spores are blown by the wind where they infect susceptible hawthorn, apple, crabapple and pear trees. To control this persistent disease we recommend the following:

• Rake up and dispose of fallen leaves and other debris from under trees.
• Remove galls from infected junipers. In some cases, juniper plants should be removed entirely.
• Use a thick layer of mulch to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well.
• Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation.
• Water in the early morning hours or use soaker hoses to give plants time to dry out during the day — avoid overhead irrigation.

Note: Organic fungicides — copper and sulfur sprays — can be used to protect trees from spores being released by the juniper host in mid-spring. however, this occurs only once a year, so additional applications after this are not necessary.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/plant-disease/cedar-apple-rust/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Bonnie,

Unfortunately, increasing the amount of light that your bird of paradise receives is really the best way to encourage it to flower. However, there are some other strategies that can help to promote blossoms! Be certain that your plant is potted in well draining soil and that you are watering it evenly, but also allowing it to dry out between waterings. Water the entire pot thoroughly and determine when to water again by sticking your finger about two inches into the soil – once it has dried out to that depth, it is time to water again. It is also important to provide your plant with some humidity, you can achieve this by spraying water on the leaves at least two times per week.

If you recently re-potted your bird of paradise, this could be responsible for the plants’ lack of flower production. These plants actually thrive when they are root bound so you may need to transplant yours into a smaller pot to achieve shallower planting. Allowing roots to be near the surface of the soil can also benefit the plant.

Providing your bird of paradise with optimal growing conditions is the best way to get it to bloom, and when conditions are not ideal it can delay this later stage for several years! It sounds like your plant is really benefiting from your fertilizing regime but if all else fails, you could try switching to a bloom booster fertilizer. Plants require more phosphorous and potassium when they are flowering so providing yours with a fertilizer that has little nitrogen and more P and K could also help to initiate blossom production.

Here is a great product for flowering plants:
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/alaska-morbloom/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Not really David, except that you won’t run into many of the heat issues most indoor gardeners experience. You can even automate your cooling set up with a temp controller that will only run your fan when your grow room temps exceed a given temperature.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi David –

As you know, light is the most important component of your indoor growing set-up. If you want want abundant harvests, it must be intense. Not only is the kind of light you use critical to your success, it will determine how healthy (and productive) your plants are. Advances in spectral display and intensity of T5 fluorescents make them a good choice for the casual indoor vegetable gardener. They produce low heat, are energy efficient, affordable and very easy to use.

Indoor growers looking for impressive vegetable yields should consider High Intensity Discharge (HID) lights. They range in size form 250W to 1,000W and it’s important to fit them to your garden space. Typically a 1000W grow light will cover a 10 ft x 10 ft growing area (100 sq ft). Do NOT skimp on light.

HID lights are of two types: metal halide (MH) and high-pressure sodium (HPS). Both require a remote ballast to provide the proper operating voltage. Most gardeners recommend MH lamps to encourage vegetative growth and “bushiness” while discouraging upward growth. Their blue-white spectrum is perfect for growing leafy greens. HPS bulbs radiate light energy in the yellow-red-orange spectrum and stimulate fruiting and flower production. They’re ideal for peppers and tomatoes.

Note: Most plants need about 10-14 hours of light per day in order to grow. Plants that produce fruit or flowers will need more: up to 18 hours per day.

Al-righty, with the basics out of the way let’s take a look at the veggies you want to grow inside.

• leafy greens (lettuce, mustard, kale, arugula) — T5 fluorescent, compact fluorescent or metal halide throughout
• tomatoes — Start with metal halide and switch to high pressure sodium
• beans — I recommend bush varieties. Start with metal halide and switch to high pressure sodium
• peas — probably not (they are a cool weather crop)
• herbs — Most culinary herbs will do well grown under fluorescents or MH lamps. However, HPS bulbs are best for the flowering stage of herbs grown for their blossoms: chamomile, calendula and borage among others.
• bunching onions — T5 fluorescent, compact fluorescent or metal halide throughout
• broccoli — T5 fluorescent, compact fluorescent or metal halide throughout
• peppers (heard these were hard to grow/get a good yield off of so i’m not sure yet) — Start with metal halide and switch to high pressure sodium
• Berries (blueberries, strawberries, maybe a raspberry) — Hmm. you’ll have your best luck with strawberries. Start with metal halide and switch to high pressure sodium.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi David –

Air Cooled Set Up 1

The easiest — and cheapest — way to set-up an air-cooled grow light reflector and carbon filter is to hang the filter before your hood and connect the two using a short piece of flexible ducting. Attach your inline fan on the other side of the reflector and vent the hot air directly out of your room (or tent) using more ducting. For best results, keep this path as short and straight as possible. Kinks will restrict airflow and the exhaust/ cooling system will become less efficient the longer the hot air has to travel. Also, keep enough slack in the duct work to allow for your lights to be raised and lowered.

Air Cooled Set Up 2

In my opinion, a much better way to set up your grow room is to use cool, filtered incoming air to remove the heat from your lights and a separate fan and filter to exhaust the air going out of your garden. While this will initially cost you more, it provides greater flexibility, a better growing environment and it’s much easier on your equipment.

Start by attaching your in-line fan to a HEPA cleaning filter outside the room (this is your clean, cool air supply). Run flexible ducting from the fan through your grow room wall and attach it to the vent on the reflector. Attach more flexible ducting — preferably insulated — on the opposite side of your reflector and run it outside. Here’s the layout:

Filter >>> Fan >>> Ducting >>> Wall >>> Reflector >>> Ducting >>> Outside

Tip: You can exhaust this hot air to a garage or other area that you want to heat during winter months.

It is always best to push cool, filtered air from outside your room (or tent) through your air-cooled hood(s). This is preferable for the following reasons:

• All of the air being pushed into your room will be filtered and free of insects, mites, mold or mildew.

• Pushing air into your room will create a positive air pressure which can help keep potential nasties outside.

• Your fan will last longer because it’s not always sucking hot, damp air through it.

Fan & Filter Exhaust System

To get rid of the potentially smelly air inside your garden, attach a separate inline fan to a flange kit on top of your carbon filter. Make sure that the fan and filter are large enough for your growing space and vent this air outside your room using flexible ducting.

Proper Fan Size

It is important that you are using the right size in-line fan (CFM) for the job. To do this, measure the size of your room (tent) length x width x height and divide by 3. This will give you the minimum fan size CFM for your area.

Example: 12 ft. x 10 ft. x 8 ft tall = 960 cubic feet / 3 = 320 CFM

In this example 320 CFM is the minimum fan size that you will need to replace the air every 3 minutes. Once fan size is determined, match it to the appropriate sized filter.

Happy growing!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mark –

Beneficial nematodes are easily applied using no specialized equipment. Simply scatter over the infested area, then water. One pint will cover 200-400 square feet and will persist in soil for approximately 18 months. Killing action begins 24 hours after application and thousands of NEW nematodes can be produced — and released — from a single infected host.

Scanmask® is formulated to provide protection against UV light, heat and drying out. It has a shelf life of one year when refrigerated and can be applied most times of the year. However, to ensure full potency I recommend that you wait until temps drop down into the 80s before placing your order. I am concerned about how the package is handled en-route to you with such high temperatures. We’ve had some problems with shipments being left in the sun or a hot mailbox.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Nita –

I’ve never really thought of ants being much of a problem on sweet corn, but a quick web search shows that you’re not alone here. Many growers are experiencing trouble with them getting under the husk and eating the ears. You will also want to keep an eye out for aphids as ants will farm them from plant to plant and protect them for the sugary secretions that they produce. I’ve attached a link to our control page which will provide a complete list of earth-friendly remedies. And yes, TERRO Bait will work!

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/ant-control/

Grasshoppers can occasionally be a pest on corn, especially if their numbers get high enough. However, they will mostly feed on the foliage of the plant and are rarely a serious threat to mature crops. Watch them closely and treat if necessary.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Liz –

You bet! We love the Age Old Organics nutrient line. We do carry the Ca-Libur 20 now and will bring in the MPG on our next order. Is there anything else you are interested in?

Thanks for checking with us!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

Sounds like you’ve got a tomato hornworm problem! They are very large (3-4 inch) caterpillars that are green with seven to eight white V’s across their bodies and a black or brown horn on the rear. These guys are highly destructive of plants in the nightshade family like potatoes, tomatoes, tobacco, etc. Here are some tips to prevent future horn worm damage:

• Hand pick and manually destroy the large caterpillars (best method)
• Release beneficial insects — lacewings or trichogramma wasps to prey on the pests
• Utilize a Bt (Bacilus thuringensis) or Spinosad based insecticide
• Till up soil after harvest to destroy pupae in the soil

Depending on the severity of defoliation and the length of the growing season, your plant just might survive. If the damage was not so severe as to kill the plant and there are still enough days left before the first frost in your area for the plant to leaf out again, flower, and fruit then you can still expect to harvest something. Check your USDA hardiness zone. If growing season length is an issue you could utilize frost cloth to slightly extend the season or bring your plant inside and finish it out under a grow light.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Omar –

To figure out how to get a more precise ratio of fertilizer per gallon of water you can start with the concept that your 8-1-1 fertilizer contains 8% Nitrogen, 1% Phosphorus and 1% Potassium. I am looking at a one pound container of Mexican Bat Guano, so that means that 8% of it is Nitrogen. Now in order to figure out how much Nitrogen is in one Tablespoon of guano, you need to know how many Tablespoons are in the one pound container. Weighing out one Tablespoon of the guano will tell you that it weighs 0.015 lbs therefore 1 lb divided by 0.015 lbs gives you about 66.67 Tablespoons per pound of fertilizer.

? %N 1 Tbs

=

66.67 Tbs 1 lb

x

1 lb fert 8 %N

=

8.33 %N 1 Tbs

So what percentage of Nitrogen is in 1 Tablespoon of fertilizer? If you multiply 66.67 Tablespoons per 1 pound by 1 pound of fertilizer per 8% of Nitrogen you get 8.33% Nitrogen per Tablespoon of fertilizer.

In order to fertilize at or close to the exact 8-1-1 ratio mix just under 1 Tablespoon of guano with 1 gallon of water. This should be a good ratio for your citrus seedlings. Be sure to pour no more than a shot glass’ worth of the fertilizer around and slightly away from the circumference of the tree trunks. It is also important that you fertilize the seedlings NO MORE than two times per year – once in early spring and again in late summer is generally best. You can utilize the left over fertilizer mixture on other house plants, garden vegetables or lawns as it is great for promoting plenty of vegetative growth.

Best of luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Deborah –

You bet! Fish emulsion has been around for years and is one of the best all-purpose fertilizers there is. We like them because the nutrients are so readily available which makes them as effective as synthetic formulas with higher N-P-K ratios. Because of this availability, liquid fish products can be easily applied as foliar sprays — sprayed over plant leaves. Surprisingly, plants take in nutrients more efficiently through stomata in their leaves than they do through their roots.

We like to apply diluted fish emulsion every 1-2 weeks directly to the soil around the base of plants. This keeps nutrient levels constant and gives fantastic results. We suggest watering first and then apply the diluted solution to the manufacturer’s specifications, usually 1-3 Tbsp/ gallon. Note: Watering first helps wick the fertilizer down into and through the soil.

For larger areas, you can use a self-mixing hose end sprayer. Simply pour the liquid concentrate into the spray bottle/ reservoir and set the dial for the suggested dilution rate (see product label). Attach to your garden hose and apply over the desired area. We’ve been known to go a little light on the nutrient-to-water ratio when applying every couple of weeks.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Bob –

Sorry for the delay in my response…

I think an integrated approach is best here and recommend you clean up the area prior to releasing the parasitic wasps. Don’t worry about the wasps. they’re pretty good at finding the pest eggs.

Go get `em!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

Blossom end rot is an environmental problem most often caused by uneven watering or by calcium deficiency. The simplest treatment is therefore pre-treatment: make sure soil is rich in all necessary nutrients (including calcium), and water regularly. Mulches also help maintain even moisture levels.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Mike –

These energy efficient CFL Grow Lights are perfect for indoor gardeners with a limited budget and a small growing space. The lights run cooler than traditional HID lamps and require very little ventilation. No heat means that the bulb can be placed closer to your plants for improved productivity. Best of all, they come in two color spectrums to fit your particular growing needs.

Cool, available in 125W (7,000 Lumens – 6500 Kelvin) and 200W (10,000 Lumens – 6500 Kelvin) to enhance vegetative development.

Warm, available in 125 watt (7,000 Lumens – 2700 Kelvin) to produce maximum flowering. Grow flowers, herbs and much more!

Note: Because this lamp is self-ballasted, you simply screw it into a Compact Fluorescent Fixture or base mogul (E39) socket which is larger than a standard lamp socket.

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Keith –

Unfortunately, CAP is no longer in business and the company that purchased them has discontinued many of their larger HID Light Controllers. However, I sent your question off to the owner of Powerbox — in my opinion, the highest quality lighting controllers on the market — and here’s what he had to say.

Our Powerbox DPC-12000-D has 12 outlet, with dual trigger cords, so you could run the outlets in groups of 6. Up from there is the DPC-24000 (we can special order this), which has 24 of the 240v outlets. This model had a special timer and you can separately control the outlets in groups of 6, plus there are some 120V’s that can also be independently controlled. Hopefully one of these will work!

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Kathy –

Planet Natural believes that the common sense approach to pest control is to create a balance of organisms in your yard or garden. In a diverse ecosystem pest populations are managed naturally. Development of this balance relies on products that minimize harm to beneficial insects — the good bugs! If you decide to treat a problem, the Natural Pest Control section of our website is set up to help you combat pests in the most cost-effective and safest way possible. Just hover over the link at the top of this page and you will see the following categories listed in order from least to most damaging to pest predators and the environment. Keep in mind that everything that we offer is less toxic than something you might find in a can of RAID®.

Insect Traps – Containing no pesticides, traps use colors/ shapes, pheromone lures or food to capture problem pests.

Barriers/ Repellents – These non-lethal, yet effective products act like barbed wire to keep pests away.

Beneficial Insects – Combat bad bugs with good bugs. Release beneficial insects, both as a preventative and as a control measure.

Bio-Pesticides – Better — and safer — than chemicals, biological pest control products are very effective against their target insects but are non-toxic to humans, pets, wildlife and beneficial insects.

Soaps, Oils & Abrasives – These environmentally friendly pest control products are made from natural, non-or-minimally toxic ingredients that are short-lived in the environment.

Botanical Insecticides – These natural pesticides break down quickly in the environment and are less toxic than commercial sprays. However, they are still toxic and should only be used after other least-toxic options have been tried. To minimize harm to pollinators and other beneficial insects, we recommend spot treating the problem area rather than blanket spraying your entire yard or garden.

To answer your question, all of our herbal sprays are low in toxicity and short-lived in the environment. However, they are not specific to pest insects. To prevent harming your ladybugs and praying mantis make sure to spot-treat the trouble areas. Most herbal sprays are ineffective hours after application.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Loyd –

The pH of your soil is a measure of acidity or alkalinity. Soil pH is extremely important and directly affects nutrient availability. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 as neutral. Numbers less than 7 indicate acidity while numbers greater than 7 indicate alkalinity.

There are several methods to raise soil pH (make it more alkaline), and yes, adding potassium (K) is one of them. However, probably NOT the best as other problems can arise. To correct acid soil we recommend the following:

Lime: The standard soil amendment to raise pH is lime, which you can buy as granules or pellets, or as any of several powders. The finer the lime particles, the more rapidly it becomes effective. Different soils will require a different amount of lime to adjust the pH value. Here is the formula:

– for sandy soils, add 4 ounces per square yard;
– for loamy soils, add 8 ounces per square yard;
– for clay soils, add 12 ounces per square yard;
– for peaty soils, add 25 ounces per square yard.

Wood Ash: Not only will wood ashes raise the pH of the soil, but they also contain a number of necessary plant nutrients, including boron and other trace elements. The draw-back is their high potassium content, which dandelions crave — use caution when applying to lawns. Also, since ashes are so soluble, they can make soil quite alkaline when first applied. Foe this reason, it is best to spread them several weeks before planting or use as a side-dressing around existing plants.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

Coleus are brightly colored, partial-shade loving plants that come in all kinds of shapes and sizes. This member of the mint family grows well in borders and containers, but will occasionally come under attack from a number of pests and disease. Common coleus problems include:

Pests
• Mealybugs
• Aphids
• Slugs
• Spider Mites
• Whitefly

Disease
• Powdery Mildew
• Downy Mildew
• Root Rot

From your description, I think that the moths that you are seeing are actually whiteflies, but they are a sucking insect and don’t typically eat plants. Look for slugs too! I’ve included a couple links below that I hope help.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/garden-pests/slug-control/
https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/whitefly-control/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi George –

Milky spore is a naturally occurring bacteria that is used to prevent the development of Japanese beetle populations. The disease spreads naturally as each infected beetle larvae dies, decomposes and releases billions of new spores into the soil. Milky spore is NOT harmful to humans, pets or wildlife and can be used on lawns and ornamental gardens in residential areas. For best results, follow these directions for use:

• Apply one level teaspoon on top of grass in spots every 4 ft. in rows 4 ft. apart.
• Use 1 lb for every 4,000 sq ft of turf or 10 lbs per acre.
• Apply any time of year when the ground is not frozen.
• Apply Spring, Summer and Fall for two consecutive years (6 applications total) for faster control.
• Water lightly after application to soak spores into the soil.
• Areas between spots will be inoculated naturally, which may require 2-4 years to achieve control.
• When grubs are no longer present, the spores remain dormant waiting for subsequent populations.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/milky-spore-powder/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Cecilia –

All of the organic herbicides offered by Planet Natural are non-selective and will kill most weeds, grasses and broad-leaves safely and quickly. They will not move through the soil to injure nearby plants and break down quickly in the environment. Treated areas can be re-planted several hours after application.

Tip: For best results, apply on warm, dry days. Mature or perennial weeds may require a second application.

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Mark,

Monterey BT is a bio-insecticide that is people and pet safe and is OMRI certified! You can find it here: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/monterey-bt-kurstaki-bt-k/. I’ve also included a link to our Gypsy Moth Control page below.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/tree-pests/gypsy-moth-control/

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

Marigolds are one of the easiest flowers to grow and will add spectacular color to borders, beds and containers. Once they are up and thriving, I recommend giving them a healthy splash of liquid organic fertilizer every 2-4 weeks. My favorite is Neptune’s Harvest Fish & Seaweed because it offers a full range of essential nutrients and has a bit more phosphorous than nitrogen for heavy fruiting and flowering. It also contains seaweed, which is chock-full of trace minerals and hormones to significantly increase plant hardiness and improve the appearance and taste of whatever you’re growing. Give it a try! I bet you’ll notice improved production, darker green leaves and brighter flower color.

Marigold problems are few. In fact, they are often grown as a companion plant in gardens to repel or deter many insect pests. With that said, they can occasionally come under attack from aphids, spider mites and slugs. Watch closely and spot-treat with natural pest control products when needed. Plant diseases that may affect leaves, stems and flowers include powdery mildew, leaf spot and gray mold. Provide earth-friendly, organic fungicides as soon as the first signs of disease are spotted.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Kris –

The best control for Canadian geese is a three part management strategy. Best practices to humanely protect your yard include changing the habitat to be less attractive to geese, limiting flock growth and frightening geese in order to encourage them to leave on their own. Timing is key to management. Geese molt for about six weeks every summer, and they are flightless during this time. It is imperative to scare off geese before they’ve lain eggs and began to molt. We sell a scarecrow sprinkler to help ward off your unwelcome guests.

Other effective control methods include:
• Mow your lawn at least 3-inches in height or longer. Geese prefer manicured yards with shorter grass.
• Do NOT feed geese.
• Any least-toxic Deer Repellent should work as it will make lawns taste nasty.
• If you have a pond, consider placing a temporary fence — at least 18 in. tall — around it prior to nesting season to restrict access.
• Plant tall grasses/ shrubs around your pond to make it more difficult to access. This may also cause them to move elsewhere because predators will be harder to spot.
• Get a dog.

Good Luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Lydia –

Yes, go ahead and stick them outside… they will be fine in the heat! I’m not sure why the egg cases haven’t hatched by now and have instructed our warehouse to send you out a replacement. Please keep me updated on the mantis that you have now.

Thank you!

[Author]

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