[Eric Vinje]

Tricia –

Semaspore Bait is specific to grasshoppers and one species of cricket. It will not harm anything else!

[Eric Vinje]

Hey John!

Something you could do to guarantee an increase in soil temperature could involve the introduction of soil heating cables. We offer this 48 ft cable that will heat about 12 sq ft of space. https://www.planetnatural.com/product/soil-heating-cable/

You could also introduce moisture to the soil and cover it with clear plastic mulch. Sunlight hitting the dark soil will increase relative humidity and overall soil temperature. This method may be a bit more unpredictable, and has the potential to harm the roots due to extremely high soil temperatures in the first 6in of soil.

Happy Planting!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Debbie –

Four O’Clocks are easily propagated in containers. Any pot between 1 and 5 gallons will do just fine. Fill the container with potting mix and water thoroughly. Press 4-7 seeds into the pot per gallon of soil. Containers should be placed in an east or south facing window.

Happy Planting!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Jim –

Something you could do now would involve incorporating organic matter to help aerate the soil and increase soil carbon. The addition of manure, peat moss or earthworm castings can help decrease soil compaction and make the soil a bit more manageable in the spring. I would wait to incorporate other fertilizers until just before planting. Removing any flowering weeds or residual seed heads will help make for less weeding in the spring.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Lindsay –

We do not have reps in the field at this time. However, these articles should help…

https://www.planetnatural.com/using-beneficial-insects/
https://www.planetnatural.com/integrated-pest-management/

If you are having trouble with a specific pest we can provide more information. Please let us know!

[Eric Vinje]

Jim –

We have several blog articles on preparing garden soil that I think will help.

https://www.planetnatural.com/category/soil-health/

Please take a look and if you still have questions please let us know.

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

Here’s two that I would recommend… both are excellent, slow-release organic nutrients.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/fruit-tree-fertilizer-organic-9/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/fruit-flower-fertilizer/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Bonnie –

Keep in mind that praying mantis are very cannibalistic and require plenty of space once hatched. We recommend sticking the tiny mantis outside as soon they appear — they do NOT make good pets. With that said, small crickets, meal worms and even fruit flies can be used as a food source for the young nymphs.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Linda –

We no longer print catalogs.

Thanks for your interest!

[Eric Vinje]

Shirley –

There are several good hydroponic nutrient lines for vegetables. I like the General Organic line for beginners. Here’s the link:

https://www.planetnatural.com/product_brand/general-organics/.

Visit the link above and click on the company’s feeding schedule for more information.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

This Wildflower mix is not “certified” organic. However, these seeds are untreated, unsprayed and are grown without the additions of herbicides, insecticides or fungicides. Arguably better than treated organic seeds! Here’s the link.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/the-bees-knees-pollinator-mix/

[Eric Vinje]

1. How seriously should I take Actinovate expiration? The pouch I bought last year has been expired, so I’m wondering if I need a fresh one.

Last spring we had received some product from the manufacturer that was 1 years expired, naturally we could not sell this to the public. Out of curiosity I took the items home to see how well it worked being out of date. I have found that it works well I had to increase the application from 1/2 tsp to 1 tsp for my application. It has taken care of the blight on my Grapes and Aspen trees. For powdery mildew in my Aquaponics system it has been the only product that works fast and won’t harm the fish.

2. Is it not a good idea to premix Actinovate in a jug to water seeds/seedlings over x days? Is this something that needs to be used within xx hours?

I would suggest to not store it for more than 1 day, I have not had nay experience past the 1 day mark. If you do store it for longer please mark the bottle properly for just in case.

Over all I think this is one of the best products I have used to take care Powdery Mildew and Blight’s in my greenhouse and yard.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Nancy –

TangleTrap was purchased by a large company late last spring and has not been available since then. We will continue to make calls about the product…but are not receiving much of a response. Stay tuned!

[Eric Vinje]

Jeanette –

Thank you for your interest… but we no longer print a paper catalog.

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Fred!

Something you can do now to cut down on future infestations would be removing and destroying any egg masses you may encounter in your bushes or nearby forest. While it may seem like a never-ending battle, attacking the pest at weak points in their life cycle is key to keeping them to a manageable level.

I think you would have a bit of success with spraying a pyrethrin and piperonyl butoxide based insecticide on the grass and rock drive way. I would re-apply once every three or so days when you are in the thickets of the infestation. However it should be noted that these organic chemicals are broad spectrum and may injure beneficial as well as problem insects. Applying Monterey Bt kurstaki to your berry plants would be the safest approach and it’s approved for organic production.

This bonide pyrethrin spray contains piperonyl butoxide and would fit your needs well.
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/pyrethrin-spray/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/monterey-bt-kurstaki-bt-k/

Here’s a bit more information on tent caterpillar control you could delve into!
​https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/tree-pests/tent-caterpillar-control/​
​
Hope this helps! Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Keith –

Corn gluten meal will keep many weed seeds from germinating and persists for about one month once applied. As long as the product is out there when the seeds are germinating, it should work. However, I recommend checking peak germination periods with your local extension — this will help you time applications and save you some money!

Here’s a links to our Organic Lawn Care page.

https://www.planetnatural.com/organic-lawn-care-101/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Paul –

Grow Light Ballasts
Metal Halide (MH) and High Pressure Sodium (HPS) lights require a remote ballast to work. When building your own plant grow light, it’s important to match the ballast with the wattage of the bulb you will be using. You must also match the type of light (MH or HPS) you’re looking for with the ballast. For example, a 400 watt HPS bulb will only work with a 400 watt HPS ballast (or 400 watt convertible ballast). A Metal Halide bulb must be used with MH ballasts (or convertible ballasts) of the same wattage.

Note: Digital ballasts (Quantum, Phantom, etc.) will work with both MH and HPS lamps of the same wattage.

Grow Light Bulbs
Because of their color spectrums and high light output (wattage), Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium bulbs are the most popular indoor plant lights available.

Metal Halide Lamps produce a more natural color spectrum of light, with more blue and violet light rays than HPS lights. MH lights encourage vegetative growth and “bushiness” while discouraging upward growth. This is the light to use in the vegetative phase of plant growth, or when starting seeds and cuttings.

Used primarily in the flowering cycle of a plant’s life, HPS Lamps emit a yellow/orange/red light that is typical of autumn’s harvest sun. Many indoor gardeners switch to high pressure sodium lamps in the later stages of a plant’s life to induce flowering, budding or fruiting.

Conversion Bulbs make it possible to run a metal halide bulb from your high pressure sodium ballast or a HPS bulb from your MH ballast. The most popular conversion bulbs by far are sodium conversion bulbs, which allow growers to have the sodium spectrum while still using a metal halide system. Although not as bright as regular HPS lamps, conversion bulbs are more economical than buying two complete systems. (Note: This type of bulb is not necessary when using a digital ballast.)

Grow Light Reflectors
Reflective hoods are essential to ensure that all the light is reflected toward the plants and not wasted throughout the room. The more “reflectivity” a hood can provide, the more effective it will be. In fact, gardeners who use the most efficient reflective hoods can harvest up to twice as much produce as those who don’t. DON’T skimp on your hood — it’s all about light output, right?

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Andres –

Here’s a link to our scale control page:

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/scale-control/.

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Bob –

A 1.5 cf bag equals 38.6 dry quarts (9.65 gallons) of soil.

Hope this helps!!

[Eric Vinje]

Bill –

Please take a look at our Veg-A-Matic Metal Halide Grow Light Kit. It includes an AgroSun 1000W bulb, Phantom digital ballast and Radiant 8 AC Reflector all packaged up nice and neat in a discounted package deal.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/metal-halide-grow-light/

The Radiant 8 AC Reflector is one of the best available for intense, downward light output. If your looking for more of a diffuse light, I recommend the Raptor 8 (high-end) or Pro Reflector (budget).

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

​We’ve got one(1) pack of Eggplant Jade Sweet​ from the 2015 seed stock at our store. We will not be carrying Jade Sweet in 2016, it has been substituted with Black Beauty Eggplant. If you would like to purchase this please call 1-888-349-0605 8a-5p MST and ask for Coby.

[Eric Vinje]

John –

We’re sure working on it. The manufacturer of the Scarecrow Sprinkler was purchased early last spring. We continue to ask the new company for updates and availability… but are not receiving much info as of yet. We will continue to call the new company every week!

[Eric Vinje]

Well right here, of course!

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/liquid-copper-fungicide/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/liquid-copper-spray/

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Leane,

The upper diameter is 8.5″ and the lower diameter is 5.5″. The total height of the pot is 5.75″.

[Eric Vinje]

Alonso –

Here is what I have found:

Apply Actinovate (1-2 tsp/ 2 gallons of water) at any stage of the crop life. For best results, apply as early as possible such as at seeding, transplant or potting stage. Reapply every 2–12 weeks as needed.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Wayne –

The EnviroCycle Composter is/ was extremely popular… but it hasn’t been available for some time. We haven’t pulled it from the site because we’re hoping it comes back.

[Eric Vinje]

Gina –

We’re not sure. The company was purchased earlier this year and the new company has not made the item available. We’ll keep checking with them!

[Eric Vinje]

I think the biggest reason there is no root enhancer approved for organic production lies within the core values of organic production. Though plants do possess these hormones naturally it’s considered unnatural for most herbaceous plants to produce roots from a simple cutting. Plants are living, respiring individuals; they are constantly cycling nutrients, water, and microorganisms. Without intense scientific study, it’s almost impossible to know if residues would remain in mature plant material.

Have a beautiful day!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Elana!

Auxin is the name for plant hormones that stimulate root production. The two most common forms used in the industry are indolebutyric acid (IBA) and napthalacetic acid (NAA) which are produced naturally in some plants. Unfortunately, isolation of these plant hormones are quite difficult and they are unavailable in an organic form currently. There are synthetically-derived IBA and NAA products on the market, however they are not approved for use in organic production. In fact, from my research there is not a single cloning solution that is certified for use in organics. The OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) approved products PDF lists root-enhancing fertilizers, but no products specifically used to induce rooting. Further researching into this and material safety data sheets for our products has brought me to the conclusion that the closest thing we have to an OMRI approved rooting product is Olivia’s Cloning Gel. It can be purchased here: https://www.planetnatural.com/product/olivias-cloning-gel/

Happy Holidays!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello!

Pepper seeds are quite easy to reproduce, as far as the solanacae family goes! Pepper seeds can be harvested directly from the fruit, and should be left on a paper towel or other means to dry for two weeks before they are ready for storage or planting.

I would start the seeds indoors sometime between late February and mid March (Farmer’s Almanacs’ suggest planting seeds during the first moon phase, sometime between the new moon and the first quarter), either in a hydroponic sponge pod or simple potting soil will do.

Germination rate for peppers will vary slightly from one variety to another, the original seed package should list a germination rate or percentage which may give you a clue. Some tips for increasing pepper germination include:
-Keeping your soil temperature between 70-75 degrees (F) for sweet peppers and 70-85 degrees for hot peppers is optimum for germination. This can be obtained in cooler climates thru use of a seedling heat mat.
-Fresh seed germination (undried) can take 20-50 days to sprout. Seeds that are dried and then stored for 2-3 weeks germinate in about 20 days.
-Harvesting seeds from overripe fruit (about 10 days after fruit is physiologically ripe) has also been shown to increase germination slightly.
Keep in mind that properly dried and stored seeds should remain viable for about two years.

Peppers are self-pollinating for the most part, though some cross pollination may occur from wind or insect interaction. Seeds and fruit shall happen automatically with proper plant care. No wings or antennae required!! (Unless you’re into that sort of thing!)

Something to note: Peppers are actually a perennial plant, which means you will get fruit (though it may not be as prolific of production as your first season) from your older plants next season.

Hope this helps!
Happy Holidays!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello –

In order for such a task to be possible you would need a very large growing space. One acre of wheat produces an average of 56 bushels. One bushel is equal to about 60 pound of whole grain processed wheat, which will produce about 90 loaves of bread. Based upon my calculations, it would take about 13 sq ft of space to produce one pound of processed wheat, which would produce about 1.5 loaves of bread.

Happy Holidays!

[Eric Vinje]

Hi Marie!

Were you perhaps referring to using a stronger concentration or heavier feeding regime with your use of the word hotter? If so I would almost guarantee that a Ca/Mg deficiency is what you are experiencing. Tomatoes require calcium and magnesium supplements for proper fruit formation as well as preventing blossom end rot disease. I would suggest adding a Calcium and Magnesium supplement to your feeding regime. Roots Organics Elemental or General Organics CaMg+ would fit your needs perfectly.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/camg/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/roots-organics-elemental/

Good Luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Carole Anne –

I spoke with the seed company about your concerns. Here is their response:

Definitely no chance of a mix up. it would be Cerastium arvense. If you have any other questions let me know!

Happy Holidays!

[Eric Vinje]

Planet Natural
1251 N. Rouse Ave.
Bozeman, MT 59715

https://www.planetnatural.com/store-location/

[Eric Vinje]

Thanks Ed… but I think you might want to get that old catalog back. We stopped printing them several years ago when postage and printing costs got so expensive. Let me know if there’s anything I can do to help and thank you for the support!

[Eric Vinje]

Dude –

That is correct — 38.6 dry quarts.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Mike –

Unfortunately, our vendors do not offer replacement parts for the Reg-1. If it is still under warranty we could try to get the piece replaced for you, but will need the item to send it in for inspection.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Jason,

Getting a vermicompost started can be a little tricky. I find that adding newspaper (or whatever your carbon source my be) at a 3:1 ratio to organic matter. Adding too much organic matter can turn your system thermophilic, and literally cook your worms.

Keeping your system moist constantly is the next important thing. Too much water, and you risk drowning your worms and too little they will dry out (along with their bacterial food source). The water collected from your system, aka the worm tea, is always rather pungent. It is comprised of fantastic nutrients and soil probiotics, so don’t throw it out. I dilute mine, adding about a cup per gallon of dechlorinated water.

Your worms will move all around the system, often concentrating on foods they like most (or maybe the food that bacteria likes most). I’ve noticed that the higher the water content of a food, generally, the more they seem to enjoy it. Onion and citrus products stick around the longest in my system, I would avoid adding them until you have a large worm population.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Kathy –

Please call 1-888-349-0605 and we’ll see what we can do!

[Eric Vinje]

Brian –

I’m not sure if you’ve seen this article:

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/houseplant-pests/russet-mite-control/

Hope it helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Lauren –

Some fly species lay eggs on decomposing plant material. Try adding a layer of hay to the pile and cover with screening. I’ve also heard that a 2 inch layer of sandy soil spread over the surface will work. Read more about effective fly control here (https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/household-pests/fly-control/).

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Kathleen –

We should have more in stock shortly after the new year.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Johanne –

Unfortunately at this time we do not ship to Canada. I apologize for the inconvenience.

[Eric Vinje]

Michelle –

I think your best bet is to fill the crack with caulk and create a permanent barrier that they cannot pass through. I’ve also included a link to our Yellow Jacket Control page.

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/yellow-jacket-control/

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Christi,

I would suggest a combination of diatomacious earth and another product called orange guard. The Diatomacious earth can be spread on earth surrounding trees to form a physical barrier against ants. The latter kills the aphids.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/diatomaceous-earth/
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/orange-guard-ornamental-plants/

Also, here’s a link to our Aphid Control page:

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/lawn-pests/aphid-control/.

Good luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Jen,

A dayspot will definitely help, but depending on how long it’s been in your attic you may want to consider buying a fresh one (bulbs loose their intensity with age). To make the most of your bulb, you will want to hang it over your plant as well, the top sides of leaves are where most of the photosynthetic action occurs.

Hope this helps!

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Kathy,

I would suggest a light fertilizer that won’t clog up your lines. I think that Neptune’s Fish and Seaweed would work perfectly for you. It is organically derived and doesn’t have thick additives.

https://www.planetnatural.com/product/organic-fish-seaweed-fertilizer/

Best of luck

[Eric Vinje]

Hello John,

The CAP Air-4 will accommodate a dehumidifier. We only have one in the store, and it is used for $140. We can do a drop shipment to you as well if you would like a new unit.

[Eric Vinje]

Hello Eric,

I would start by mixing in a descent top soil into the area, and then add a generous layer of compost. The compost will help hold moisture, and break down further to feed your plants. If you plan to garden in this area annually, I would add a layer of mulch or compost yearly.

As for a fertilizer for tomatoes, I have two suggestions. The first is Neptune’s Fish and Seaweed, which is an organically derived fertilizer. The second, is a two part fertilizer series called Buddha Grow and Buddha Bloom. The former is used up until the plant begins to flower, then switched to the bloom.

Good Luck!

[Eric Vinje]

Vicki –

I hope this helps!

https://www.planetnatural.com/pest-problem-solver/household-pests/mouse-control/

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